Mopar1973Man

Same as @MoparMom she don't like my Chicken I cooked either. She likes it dried out and tough. I tend to cook it till the meat is all white throughout and still juicy. Then pull out my KFC seasoning mix and presto I've got a killer meal. Hard to save tough chicken.

Every oil change my BHAF comes off and I do a visual inspection and then a quick pull and wiggle test. My factory HX35W (54/60/12) is on the shelf. My current HX35/40 Hybrid (60/60/12) was rebuilt by me and installed and over 100k miles and still tight.

Like @mr.obvious thermostats. He was asking for another Cal-Therm thermostat which was the OEM that came in his truck. When he went to Cummins they no longer have Cal-Term. Cummins switched up to another manufacture since 2002 when his truck was made. Great example just because Cummins use a particular part back in 2002 does mean Cummins still sell or the 3rd party still exist. Like in his example Cal-Therm is no longer Cummins start selling totally different and it was a huge fail. This applies to all parts sold by Mopar and Cummins. Just because your original part last long time the chances of getting that exact part from Cummins or Mopar is next to rare. When I stop by his place today to deliver his ISSPro Gauges I'll make sure and show a picture of both the old Cummins and the new Cummins. Fan Clutches I'm going to bet there is only a few manufactures like 4 Seasons, Hayden, etc. that produce the fan clutch then Cummins and Mopar pay a royalty fee to rebrand the box with their logo. Which in turn you pay more money just to have that Cummins or Mopar logo on the box but it still just a 4 Seasons or Hayden fan clutch.

I'm just pointing out when you do the research, statistically most OEM parts are not made by the OEM. All I'm saying do you research you'll find that most of this stuff is not manufactured by Mopar or Cummins. They just get there parts from a 3rd party and relabel the box that's all. Is it worth it to pay double or triple to get the very same fan clutch in a Mopar Box or save some money and get it in NAPA, AutoZone, etc. box? All I'm say is do the research you might save some cash and not waste on Cummins or Mopar logo. @mr.obvious was the one that showed me his worthless Cummins thermostat which wasn't a Cummins Thermostat which they happen to change the supplier and it's way different design. Needless to say it was a expensive paperweight now sitting on his dining room table. Cummins thermostat was running too cold IIRC.

Proper inspection.

You never know when those pesky @JAG1 shows up with beer and ask about "Where does this bolt go?" Seriously the injector swaps on 6.7L and 5.9L CR engines are not that bad. Just more crap to remove to gain access to the injectors. 24V 2nd Gens are breeze to do compared to CR engine. The actually part of changing injectors is basically the same just you need to push 24V 2nd Gen down with the hold down plate where CR engines you need to pull it in with bolts.

Still who manufactured the part? This is a question no one is willing to look into. Just because it was in a Mopar box still doesn't mean Mopar/Cummins made it. Do some research...

No compensation. As you go up you foot goes down more fuel is added. There is no air / fuel ratio nothing to measure or monitor it. Timing is controlled by your foot once you pass 20% engine load the timing just retards deeply that all. The key factor is IAT below 80°F then timing advances. Above 80°F then it retards. I live in a area where I can go to 9,000 plus feet above sea level (Heavens Gate - Riggins, ID) and drop to as low as 800 above sea level (Lewiston, ID). Fueling is based on boost. As you climb in elevation the air gets thinner and the turbo has tough time making same amount of boost. Since the fueling is based off of boost this just limits the power you can create even in stock form. You can't have max fuel will little to no boost. Boost pressure is the key to releasing more fuel. Once you have a Quadzilla and able to monitor live data in flight then you start understand much more. So climbing I'm typically about 14° BTDC and well over 35% engine load which means more fuel. My cutoff is 20% engine load then there is a -3° of timing based on engine load as load increases the timing advances. Then on the flat it settles to about 22° BTDC and a mere 15 to 17% engine load at 65 MPH. I climb 3 grades twice a day. Travel 1,000 miles a week. Not true. Even stock has its limits and will not keep same timing all the time. Again even running Quadzilla in Level 0 you can monitor STOCK ECM fuel and timing and its VERY dynamic and changes constantly. Stock ECM can dip very low in timing and can rise up to extremely timing at high RPM's.

Show me the manufacture of the OEM part. Show me where its made... You'll find out that Cummins and Dodge only relabel another manufacture. I've already research thermostats I know that Dodge and Cummins both do NOT manufacture thermostats. I'm pretty sure neither Dodge or Cummins manufacture fan clutches. Just because Cummins and Dodge sells parts with their logo on it does NOT mean its made by them. Again oil filters... Tell me about how Mopar make oil filters? Even the Mopar filters. Mopar does NOT produce oil filters...

This is easy to work on... Today I gotta install a power steering pump on a 2002 Ford 7.3L PowerStroke with 37 inch tires. The fluid is burnt and comes to a idle and the power is lost to both steering and brakes. He's to afraid to drive home to Boise, ID. He's camped out in Riggins, ID. Our system as long as the fluid is kept changed every 30k miles then the likely-hood of a system fault or leaks are usually keep at bay. Only 2 seals for the gearbox the input shaft and the pitman arm shaft. Watch the vacuum pump too some times can be miss leading.

In the past I took wall foam insulation and cut squares for my vents in the 1976 Dodge Jamboree Motorhome. Those worked good.

Because it comes part of the master cylinder kit only. Once the rod is snapped into place there is no way to remove it.

I've been playing with this and its does work out to aid in setting up timing. If your timing is over advanced your engine oil will climb. Like excessive cruise timing it will slowly climb up then when you hit a hill and with goo retard the temp will fall again. This points out the cruise timing is too high. If one RPM range is too high that range will show a serious rise in oil temp. When your advance timing you forcing the burn to occur mostly in the cylinder and this transfer a percentage of heat to the coolant jacket. Excessive timing will actually force the engine oil temperature higher than the coolant. Keep in mind the oil cooler sees the cold coolant from the radiator. I've seen as low as 22°F difference between coolant and oil temperatures. More you retard the timing the more you building boost and making the burn occur on the downward stroke and push expanding gases into the turbine of the turbo. More you advance timing the more the burn happens in the cylinder transferring heat into the coolant jacket but also efficiency is better. Now its about gaining a balance to heat and timing. Now between listening and watching oil temperature you can hit nearly a perfect timing or least within a few degrees. SUGGESTED: Keep oil temperature about -10°F below coolant temperature.

17 to 18 PSI running here no issues. Cranks at about 10 to 12 PSI no starting issues. Fuel temp typically about 120*F with the summer heat.

Power washed and checked twice now. Your right you can't really see up top. Slowly looking for oil with a finger tip you can feel it at the seem but forward seems to be dry. Vent hose I can't confirm as of yet.

If your really abusive. On my 1973 Charger long ago I start to see water pump weeping through the weep hole. I had my family in the car. On my way over Horseshoe Bend the water pump decided to take the bearings out and chuck the fan into the radiator. Did over 450 dollars of damage. On ours typically the bearing gives up and the fan hops into the radiator and does the happy dance.

Thanks! @Marcus2000monster I was hoping it was a easy fix. I power washed it off, Filled with ATF. Then went down the road with a few hard pulls to 85 MPH. About 8 miles pulled over and it was leaking from up on top. Like where the case half come together. Forward is of this seem is clean and dry. Runs down the passenger side and scatters in the wind.

Can the transfer case be just removed. Then split the case and reseal it? It looks like it sealed with silicone. Is it?

7 to 12 PSI during cranking is fine. Above 12 PSI and hard starts happen. What happens the ECM attempt to advance timing too quick so the lift pump pressure is reduced by cycling the power at 50% duty cycle so the pressure fall and the VP44 can advance timing till the RPM's come up.

Yup that's about right. Being the fan has to sense the heat from the radiator to get the thermostatic coil to twist the clutch to lock up. If the Radiator is shedding heat then the fan will lock. If the thermostat is close or barely open the face of the radiator is rather cool to the touch not enough heat to lock. As long as the fan lock around 205 to 210 your good. That is the high normal mark on the gauge.

Yes sir. There is a plastic bushing. Take note to the firewall if it moist with brake fluid just change the entire master.

That's what so baffling to me. P-pump the make the ECM choke on errors, then attempt to get a TPS signal from the ECM to send to a PCM (Firepunk trans controller). Which it never does. Just gets rid of the VP44 injection pump... ECM and PCM still remain with buttload of errors to swim through now. Which may just limp mode both computers. (Unknown).

Most likely master cylinder is worn out. There is a bushing in the rod too.

Just remember Mopar does NOT produce any fan clutches just like they do not product thermostats. Nor does Cummins. I've seen plenty of people go down this road. Friend of mine in Ontario, OR just bought a Cummins thermostat for $60 bucks and it was junk. Seen the box and every thing. Again Cummins just buy whatever re-labels and sells under there name. Even Mopar does this. Just like Mopar sell Fram filter with Mopar logo. Right there is a Mopar Filter that is just a relabeled Fram.