Mopar1973Man

You can select other years... Here is what I'm running... https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07G2D9HF2/

Half the unfo. I need the maximum amps it put out. Mine was also a Amazon find but I picked one without the temperature issues. If you go back and look at their comments and might be people complained about popping early and heat issues.

I've already seen 106°F down in Ontario a few days back. Even today was right around 92°F. I'm running the 150A circuit breaker and never tripped once yet. I suggest pulling the alternator having it bench tested to find out what its putting out and if there is any diode issues. Normally running truck doesn't draw very much at all. If there was a issue the grid heaters would be the biggest load at 195A but still in all a 136A alternator shouldn't be enough to trip a 150A circuit breaker.

Sorry I don't... I'm still on my factory battery cables yet. Not even needed to clean them yet.

Cleaned mine up a bunch once I figured out the oil temp trick. Good news, I broke the 21 MPG barrier.

Nope but seen plenty of projects... Typically that is a petroleum based under coating. I'm battling to prevent that from even starting the best I can.

Here is the Dodge FSM error codes and information.

My two tries at 7 x 0.0085 (+75 HP) injectors resulted in surging idle or lopey idle. It was so bad it would stall on city streets and at light trying to launch again. When I had them made the same thing with a 7 x 0.0085 VCO the problem stopped. Those were popped at 305 bar. Now with 7 x 0.010 @ 320 bar has a bit of lopely idle but as soon as you come to full stop the lope stops. Sound kind of cool but no driveability issues.

Ok... Here you go...

Part number is meaningless. Who made the part? Yes, they can be the same part that I've seen already. Yup this is true. Dealers (Mopar and Cummins) change manufactures constantly. You might get the same part that NAPA, AutoZone, etc. sells. I've seen this too. Not stamped the same part numbers but the manufacture is the same.

Yeah it does. These truck don't draw much power. When the circuit pops open the truck is running solely on the batteries in a discharging state. This is very slow. Without anything turned on you can run these truck for over 150 miles no problem without a charging alternators. Mine when the voltage get to 12.00 then clicks 11.99 the dash gause just falls to 8V and chimes and turns on the CHECK GAGE light. Just keep going they will continue to run all the way to 8.00 volts the the ECM and VP44 have problems staying running.

Actually yo can get that PCM repaired. @Auto Computer Specialist can do it for a fair price. Without the PCM you will not have any speedometer. I'm pretty sure ABS and PCM work together to get speed signal to the dash. Then your transmission will need the PCM to get 4th gear lock up. I do not suggest external regulators. They were discontinued for a reason which is the engine bay heat has to be just right to prevent over charging or under charging. If the regulator is too cold the charge voltage is too high. Then if the regulator is too warm then charge voltage is too low. Really common problem batteries don't last very long typically.

That being said it time to call @Quadzilla Power and have them test and diagnose your Quadzilla is it a wiring issue or a module issue.

Heck yeah that looks awesome!

By chance what tire size? You can get close using this tool. https://tiresize.com/calculator/ Revolutions per mile of a mounted tire under load will generally be about 3% more than the calculated number. Individual tire specs may vary from the calculations. However, you can choose from the populated list of tires to view the manufacturer specs for each tire. Specs are based on an inflated tire mounted on the 'Measured Rim' size and NOT installed under the weight of a vehicle. (If you measure the tire on your vehicle from the ground up, it will be shorter than the manufacturer diameter spec.) Tire widths will vary slightly depending on the rim width. Generally the tire width will change 2/10" for every 1/2" in rim width when mounted within the rim range. Tire diameter is not significantly affected by rim width.

I've read several complaints about false trip of the breaker because of trapped heat or too much heat directed at the circuit breaker and tripping falsely. Still for safety bench that alternator. Then insulate the circuit breaker with a ball of rags as a test. Bit of duct tape. If that resolves the issue then the breaker needs to be hidden where there is less heat.

The only problem is you have to stop, shut down, plug in the programmer, key on, flash your change, then key off. Then unplug and fire up for a test run again. Same thing for CCD Network tool.

Where did you mount the circuit breaker? If the circuit breaker is near heat it will cause a false tripping of the breaker. Mine is hidden in the cab side of the battery try on passenger side. Keep the heat off the circuit breaker. I would pull the alternator quick run it to NAP or part store and have it bench tested. This will verify the alternator has no shorts or issues. I'm betting the circuit breaker is getting too hot and popping open.

More to add to this and learning still. When you watching engine oil temperature for tuning make sure to run a good long distance to get a stable engine oil temperature. Like for me the run to Riggins, ID is a 1% grade down hill. This gives a fake low oil temperature reading. Make sure to do you measure after a good climb or long straight run. Like today I made a trip to McCall, ID and that is a 70 to 80 mile trip roughly. This is plenty plus climbing a 7% grade to get stable oil temperature reading. As for my weekend I've made two trips to McCall, ID on this tank of fuel. I'm only down 3/8 of tank at 300 miles. I'm really wanting to see the fill up numbers on this tank. I've got plenty of fuel to make the trip to Ontario, OR yet. I've seen now another weird one which might bring the IAT back to the mix for Quadzilla. Like my trips to Ontario, OR start at 7:15am in the morning and the whole trip down is typically downhill following the Weiser River. There is several grades to climb over and drop into the next valley. Typically my oil temperature in the morning is a nice -15°F then by afternoon the temperature down in Ontario has been 100°F or better. Now the IAT rises up and the timing needs to retard some because oil temperature is up near matching each other. This remains the entire trip home. Morning temperatures here have been in the 50's most of the time a few mornings bottom of 60's. Like this morning was 59°F. The timing is a weebit too retarded in the cool morning and the oil temp remains cool sided. Now I'm trying to figure out the math to control timing and using IAT.

The MAP sensor code was tossed because the 5V signal voltage is too low so that push the sensor out of range on the low side trip the P0237 code. It might be wiring... But you might end up sending the ECM in for repair.

OK then we are back to the thermostats. Again two different thermostats from two different manufactures. But sold as OEM replacements by Cummins. Bingo. Again Mopar reboxed and branded another fan clutch to be sold as OEM. But its not the same OEM fan clutch from when your truck was made. It's a totally different fan clutch and manufacture most likely.

Simple compare you GPS against a Live Data tool If they match then the speed is on. I'm less than 1 MPH off in speed. No thought required just compare two sources of speed and see if they match.

Like I've been informed by @dieselautopower they now have a tuners to just simply turn of the EGR and reduce the amount of regens that occur. No need to delete anything. So visually it passes emissions testing just the devices are logically disabled and no error codes thrown. This will open lots of doors for newer generations.

I personally consider that old wise tale...