Mopar1973Man

No reason for either as long as the ECM is working correctly to modulate the lift pump during cranking. The only reason it would be hard starting is loss of prime or excessively high fuel pressures.

Too close... Need to get some distance away. Snubber needs to at the tap point the sensor need distance away from the snubber to allow the last bit of pulses to fade in travel. I used 1/8 inch air brake line so far got 5 years on my fuel pressure gauge no failures yet.

I'm going to order my power point this next month. Ill figure a way out. I've got big gorilla hands this should prove to be a good challenge.

As long as there is snubber installed and the sensor is not installed at the VP44. Like mine is mount near the ABS module with 5 feet of line distance from the VP44.

Now remember for folks in the frozen north. The last thing you want to do is add extra cooling capacity and coolers to a transmission that will be operated in the subzero range. Like myself I'm going to have winter temperatures of -20*F ot -30*F on average for the coldest temperatures. Just like @Haggar said the colder fluid is more vicious and adds lod to the engine so consider all weather conditions before just jumping into the cooler idea. I got almost 3 months I won't see the trans temp gauge even move off 100*F. Even my normal 100-110*F summer I rare even see 170*F trans temp so coolers are not a requirement at all at least for me. Now considering that I ditched the big tires and increased my gear ratio to 3.69 with the 245's has drop the trans temp even more than a cooler... Something to think about...

@Blue-Top Steering just to make sure he sees the kind words...

HW35 is going to 1/8" NPT HY35 is going to an o-ring on a straight nipple.

How about a normal 1/8" NPT pipe plug?

Rare to see them... Yes, they are real people too. But just as rare as Hen's Teeth or Rocking Horse Crap.

Opps. My bad... Got caught off guard by a first gen poster.

Welcome to the family Dante...

Great example of the start up problem. I was doing wheel joints today and finished up. I fired up the truck and drove it out the door. Walk back in the shop grabbed my cell phone started the iQuad App and tossed the phone on the armrest. Came back after about 5 mintues and checked it out. iQuad tried one time and failed, never tried again. Shutdown the app and start again. Left the phone on the armrest again. Changed clothes. Came back again after 5-mintues tried once and quit again. Just sits there with all zero'ed gauges. Even though the truck has been running on high idle nearly 10 minutes and can't connect. After 4 more tries it finally decided to hook up and display. The only trick that helps a bit not always is make sure the iQuad App is started first before the truck. Even then the app hang up and does its one time try and quits trying.

None. It would force itself down the highway till it burned up. Correct. Even the newer 6.7L truck with a VGT turbo will do the same thing. They don't detect high driver pressure.

I've got the same style of wastegate bracket as in the video it would be super easy to just pull it off and add the spring and eye bolt.

PCM must remain hooked up its the source of the network. This is why 24V retro fits in to Ford or Chevy have issues because all they use is a ECM and there is now no OBDII port since the PCM is the master controller. The ECM is secondary.

The boost fooler I'm running now I really can't get a good adjustment from it. I'm wondering how stiff of a spring do you have to run to make this work?

Running a ground to the chassis of the PCM will do nothing. None of the internal circuits ground to the case of the PCM. If using an external regulator I highly suggest you only use that is a temporary fix till the PCM is repaired. External regulators were discontinued because of charging problem based on its method of temperature detection. PCM ground is the actual passenger side battery terminal no added ground required. If you want a good ground system look at W-T ground wire mod. My simple version...

You need to read this article and do the testing. It could be any module causing the issue of communication. Basically if the CCD network is shorted to ground, +5V or +12V that network is dead. You need to measure the CCD voltages which should be 2.49 and 2.51 volts out of the OBDII port. Then if they are not, keep disconnecting modules till it returns. The module you disconnect and the bias voltage returns then that is the module that failed. PCM supplies the network its required. I'm pretty sure the Cluster is what supplies the bias voltage. @Chris O. I think can verify this.

I've seen setups like this... Personally, I don't have one. I'm not particularly impressed with it. Manual exhaust brake controls can be done but you have to instruct all people using the truck to make sure to not have the exhaust brake on while attempting to throttle this will for sure do engine damage as the EGT's will skyrocket. The only reason I know this is years ago I call a warranty claim on my exhaust brake the vacuum valve was sticking on and if the exhaust brake was applied yet as you throttled it would skyrocket the EGT's. I had to unplug the vacuum to disable the exhaust brake because of a faulty vacuum valve.

The front axle needs to be centered with the rear axle. I don't know of a proper way to do this other than get it on an alignment rack where they can measure the axle placement. Might need to find a different shop for the alignment. Also make sure to explain to the shop that you are running custom parts and what is different and that you would like to get the axle centered. This way it can be measured from the rear axle and lined up properly.

Interesting... Anyone willing to try this crazy idea?

The other thing is once you got them that hot to things are going to be done. Replace the brake pads they are not designed to be cooked like that and pads will most likely fail later. The second thing is the rotors are not designed to be cooked either and you most likely have warped rotors now and take way too much to turn them true again. Other things impacted by the heat is the caliper pistons and the caliper seals. The pistons will cake up brake fluids as it heated and harden to the piston. The seals are only rubber and only can take so much heat. The brake fluid as well I would wonder what its condition is too.

Too high you need it to fall in the 7-12 PSI other than that the timing piston is forced too advanced and makes it impossible to start. Make sure your lift pump is controlled by your ECM and that the operating pressure is not too high. This is the reason I suggest 15 to 17 PSI operating pressure. This way cranking pressure is low enough to start easy.

Well, you better be careful the new bearing might be sitting on a store shelf too long. Bearing and the grease are not affected by storage. The grease lifespan is affected when excessive heat is applied like you hard braking down long grades. The bearing lifespan is affected by tire size and excessive wheel offset. The only thing that can be affected by weather and time is the seal that keeps water and dirt out of the bearing if the bearing seal fails then the grease will be contaminated with water, salt, MagChloride, etc and then the bearing life is shortened.