Mopar1973Man

First off I notice something that others didn't. You deleted the stock fuel filter can and fuel heater then proceeded to leave the intake manifold bolts out. You are taking a big risk of blowing out the intake gasket. Make sure to replace those bolts. Now looking closer you need to power wash that engine off with some good degreaser and inspect your injection lines. Some that hardware looks marginal at best. As for the Vacuum lines. Kind of goofy layout personally. One of these days I'm going to re-do my set up and use mostly air brake tubing and just small pieces of rubber vacuum hose. I hate the idea of everything just hanging there on the driver side. Most of this stuff could be routed to a fender, along the frame etc. Vacuum wise the only thing on our trucks is HVAC, Cruise control (auto's), CAD (early 2nd's), exhaust brakes (optional).

Too wide of a pressure swing. The pump is too small or the fuel lines are too restricted. Max swing should be only about 4 to 5 PSI. Even my 13-year-old AirDog 150 only has a 2-3 PSI swing from idle to WOT to well above 80 MPH. Cranking pressure is way too high. Pump should be modulated by the ECM for a 50% duty cycle and floating a mere 7 to 12 PSI normal while cranking. Since your pressure is this high it will cause the hard start hot problem. Check your power make sure you hooked up to the ECM and getting ECM modulation. My pressures: Idle 17 PSI WOT: 15 PSI Cranking 10-11 PSI bouncing.

So, since you don't have oversized tire and running the factory one-ton tires. I would have to say the Spicer name has let you down just like it did for @Me78569 he got short life from the spicer name brand as well.

Talk to @IBMobile he's working on a smog friendly grid heater switch. Not enough heat energy to light off the fuel. Grid heater heat the air in the manifold. So when the air is drawn in there is now enough heat energy to light the fuel.

The biggest thing is wheels and tires size. I've got 176k on my current ball joints and still tight.

I learned this stuff the hard way. I did the Vulcan Big Line Kit. Then relocated the stock Carter pump. Worked good but the pumps where junk. Then upgraded to AirDog 150 but ran in on the stock fuel sender but the pressures were very wild. Once I installed the draw straw I've had zero issues for 13 years and 250k miles. I've installed a few DDRP pumps for locals and all them failed the same way with pump failure. Calculated max flow at the open end of the stock banjo was like 50 GPH really sad to see performance 100 GPH pump pump choked to 50%.

At home I park in the garage which typically stays above freezing barely. Once on the road I could end up leaving the truck parked in subzero. I just cycle the grid heater twice and hit the starter. These are not Ford Powerstrokes that need block heater and battery charger to start in the cold.

Just a plastic access cap, no vent.

You would better off setting you goals on a good tuner first. HX35 can work with +100HP injectors with a good tuner.

HE351 is the same as my hybrid expect it tiny exhaust housing. HE351 (60/60/9) HX35/40 Hybrid (60/60/12) Personally, I would go for the hybrid before the HE351. Better exhaust flow.

No. That just an installer tool.

I've used a NAPA seal on mine still doing good over 100k miles.

Typically he does but if he's not responding in a day or so send him a message.

Rev 027 pump do not have a diaphragm. The only ground you need to worry about is the passenger side battery terminal. You might consider the W-T ground mod. What is your fuel pressure? Cranking, idling, highway speed and WOT?

Time to talk to @Dynamic he's the forum transmission guru.

No such sensor exist on the VP44. From the Dodge FSM book.

At the most a crank seal. The gear case I'm pretty sure is like the 2nd Gens has no gasket and just grey silicone. No real parts to order a local part house should have all this in stock. The only thing that has oil is the gear case in front.

P0606 is an ECM failure. Passenger side battery is the ground for the ECM. The if the alternator has bad diodes then the AC noise will produce the P0606 code from AC voltage damage to the ECM. I highly suggest... Replace both batteries. Have the alternator tested on a test stand for AC ripple Replace all battery cable that is damaged. Do the @W-T ground wire mod. Clear the codes and see if the P0606 comes back.

Standard NAPA track bar. I don't buy into the premium junk.

Yes, replace it. I bought an Autozone track bar being low on funds. I was shocked to find the AutoZone track bar was a sealed unit and figured that the ball end would fail first. Nope. The rubber end failed and it was pulling the bolt back and forth. Once replaced it with NAPA track bar the steering was tight once again.

On 3rd gens there is so little room compared the earlier 2nd gen. I know on the second gens you can do the crank seal and gear case without pulling the front apart. As for the 3rd gens I would opt to at least pull the fan out so to gain some room. Yeah you got to unplug the fan clutch and get a fan wrench set but once the fan is out of the way I'm pretty sure you'll be able to change the front crank seal and reseal the gear case.

I would suggest against it. Typically the DDRP (Dodge Direct Replacement Pumps) don't address the plumbing issues. So the pressure problem will continue. Also the DDRP pump don't isolate the ECM from the pump so if the pump shorts out you take the risk of eating a ECM. There is no fuse or relay for protection like the bigger kits like AirDog 150 or FASS 150. You need a fuel system that replaces everything from the fuel tank to the VP44. So you going to buy a good high power fuel lift pump but force it to suck on a 6mm straw and push fuel through the choked banjo bolts. Not a good idea. Good way to experience this is take your favorite beer put it on the back bumper and get some 6mm tubing and suck your brains out to get your beer. The stock fuel pickup module is also too small to this why most have either modified the stock fuel module or just installed a drawstraw.

I would only reuse an evaporator in two conditions are met. 1. There is no visible damage to the evaporator or visible leaks which show up as an oily spot. 2. No "Black Death" in the tubes. Black Death is the aluminum grindings from the compressor. As long as the tubes are clean I'd use it.

Talk to @IBMobile he knows the relay to use.