Mopar1973Man

Time to change the air in your tires from Summer air to Winter air for optimal performance.

Now I've got to wait till the next time this happens. Weird part is that I've only check connectors and wiggled wires now I'm back to working again.

I just added a full 1° degree across my spectrum. Cruise timing for my rig is optimal at about 21°. I've tried backing down to 18° for cruise timing and dropped to 18 MPG. I know this is the wrong direction. What I've done is got away from the +3° spread between bands and went to +4° spread between bands and start out at 14° ado plus 4° up. I know my max is 27° after that I get bucking. The +4° spread works out awesome giving me a nice retard on the low end of the RPM's and then pulling up the power rather quickly so quick the tires get overwhelmed. This is good now I'm going to build around this. This means I've got a breakaway point for torque and can eat a differential kind of like someone I know. Now it time to go hunt for big tire 4th gens... Time to whip on the pup's..

This is what my mornings are like just trying to pack up and get going. I've got to do the dark thing for 6 months now. This is the old school bulbs and we'll see what the new LED's look like.

The two exactly I'm looking for is the ground for the power mirror movement (not heat). Then I'm looking for the ground for the dome light. Could you post a picture of what you got? @Haggar Please?!

80 PSI that's a lot of boost pressure. Wow! Since I've done the head gasket on mine and the ARP studs I've been re-tuning and capable of spinning that HX35/40 up to 45 PSI as a small single. The funny part, that only with 1,200us of wiretap. Then the other problem is the 245's don't like it much being they tend to lose grip with the asphalt.

I've never done any of my grounds. The only ground that got attention was the W-T ground that's it. I've never clean any of mine. I do not want to scrub the paint off and have the metal start rusting which is worse than just leaving a "good ground" just being surface dirty.

Even when I've got to travel where I go there is no option for plugging the truck in but I've never had any problems with getting started on cold winter days. I might keep the truck in the garage but once I leave anyone guess on how long it will be parked and how cold it might get. This is why I don't depend on the block heater at all. If you do then your just going be like the Ford Powerstroke that have trouble starting at the first sign of cold.

My truck tends to be parked in an unheated garage but since there is plumbing in both garages the temperature typically stays just above freezing. When temperatures outside fall to ZERO then I consider using the block heater. Not to make the truck start easier. It's to heat the garage up slightly to keep the plumbing from freezing. The radiant heat from the block is not wasted then. Very very rare to see temperature here at the house that cold. Now New Meadows, ID yeah it very common to see at least -20*F. Coldest I've seen so far passing through is -30*F. Wild part, is within 1-hour drive the temperature rises again so head from New Meadows, ID to Council, ID and it will rise nearly 20 degrees or more. For guys parking outside and attempting to use a block heater is a pure waste when there is blowing cold wind around the engine and heat is wasted to the air outside. Even if you have a tarp shed to keep the wind off the truck will heat much better than heating in the wind. 750w engine heater isn't powerful enough to combat minus temperature weather.

Either G100 or G101...

Not a problem. Send it back to Nick he'll rebuild that easy. I just bought him 100 units of parts for building more.

Engine running backwards? Check the air filter for carbon that would be a sign of engine running backwards. Other than that the transmission needs to be rebuilt most likely.

Nozzle to small. The atomization is good with small nozzles. Its the big nozzles like +100 HP and above that need the higher pressures to make it atomize good. Still, you gain would be timing even with fresh OEM injectors. Let's say my ultimate highmark is 27.2 MPG hand math. I did this with an Edge Comp but the problem you had to drive seriously slow to get these kinds of numbers. The Edge Comp would lose big if the engine load rose above 20%. Coupled with my smaller tires I was able to pull it off. Now the Quadzilla I'm coming back I've already reached 21 MPG now. My tight schedule tends to make me push more on speed so. The big problem is I've got one good trip now I'm fighting to get my tune rebuilt for cetane change and colder air temps. I'm floating 18-19 MPG.

Just take your time you can do it without breaking it. I've done several old trucks now and very rarely do I break the dash. Mines got a few cracks in the dash but I've managed to pull the HVAC box twice.

OEM injectors should be set to 310 bar.

Thank you @Marcus2000monster... Awesome truck. Your giving me a reason to jump back into doing youtube videos again. Ill try to get a video of my truck.

Yes you can run the Quadzilla without damaging your pump. I ran Edge Comp for ten years and now the Quadzilla now. My last pump ran till 243k miles. 4 ways to kill a VP44.. 1. Low fuel pressure. 2. Poor filtration. 3. Excessive AC noise. 4. Poor publicity.

This is the old Carter pumps.

Yes, the input shaft is actually two pieces. The outer part is your steering and the inner part is the torsional spring for the power valve. As you turn one way or another the center torsional spring what controls the power valve. There is a pin at the top of the outer shaft that holds the inner shaft in. Then there is a o-ring inside the shaft too. Yeah, I've had a good long chat with Ryan @Blue-Top Steering I know many secrets to these steering boxes.

Exactly my point.

I've got to ask what in the world else was added to that ground in that manner? Where do the wires go to? Good question where is this ground connection at?

Strange part I've learned a long time ago... "Don't chase name brands." If you find something that works use it. It doesn't mean it will be there in the future. You never know what company might be bought out by another and then quality falls off again. Like everyone chasing Moog and they got bought out and quality fell off too. Just buy something that is going to work and go for it. So far we know that Spicer and Moog are no-no's.

I took my truck out for a ride and beat the trash out of it and still the lights and mirrors work. I guess I'll just have to wait again till they quit and maybe find the loose connection. It was wild how only 2 things on that one branch of the circuit would not function but the other two would work.

After having to dig through my truck attempting to fix the dome light and the power mirrors. I noticed the light socket was rather burned not melted but that darker burn mark from the heat of the old-school bulbs. I went out to superbrightleds.com and ordered me a new dome light blub and a pair of map light bulbs being winter is coming, daylight saving time will go away and it will be dark in the cab for morning and evening travel. It would be nice to have a bit more light and without burning up the sockets. https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/miniature-wedge-base/921-led-bulb-15-smd-led-tower-miniature-wedge-retrofit-car/910/11267/ https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/miniature-wedge-base/194-led-bulb-5-smd-led-tower-miniature-wedge-retrofit-car/206/6774/ Let's see how these work out. They should be here by about the 20th of the month.