01_Cummins_4x4

Has anyone made a complete parts list to modify and install this awesome upgrade to the charging system? I'd like to only make one trip to the parts house since it's 40 miles round trip away from my town. Thanks, Doug

My Dad was disconnecting the power wire to the PD Box from his driver side battery and sticking the test light in between the battery and the PD box wire terminal end. How would he go about checking the relay sockets? Thanks for all your help!

He found out that he has an electrical draw of 2.8 Amps which is running his batteries down. He has disconnected the power wire from the driver side battery to the Power Distribution box, disconnected the Alternator charge wire from the PD box, disconnected the Alternator feed wire from the Alternator, removed the aftermarket stereo, removed every fuse and relay from the PD box, unplugged the trailer plugin receptacle, unplugged the ABS module, unplugged the PCM, and from inside the fuse box n the driver side of the dash, and his test light will still stay lit. He has unbolted the PD box from the left inner fender and turned it upside down and visibly checked for any wiring issues there, and he didn't notice anything amiss. He's at his wits end trying to figure this one out by himself. The only thing that he hasn't disconnected yet is the wire to the solenoid at the starter. Does anyone have any ideas as to where to check or what to do next? Thanks, Doug

It is more noticeable under light throttle like when driving up a hill, but I believe it's there under full throttle acceleration as well. The shudder does feel like a rapid vibration.

My trans is not cycling (hunting) between OD and 3rd at all. I just have a shudder in OD only and is only really felt when on light load throttle application. I don't have any tuners or chips on the pickup at the moment.

Update, my TV cable was about 1/2" out of adjustment. I re-adjusted the TV cable and it does shift more normally now. I took my pickup to my friend that owns a Transmission specialty shop, and he drove it and said that the torque converter shudder is because the previous owner left the TV cable out of whack too long and it has ruined the lockup on the torque converter. bigfish - don't you mean PCM as it controls the auto transmission, cruise control, voltage regulator, etc?

I guess the trans still shifts weird from 2nd to 3rd at any other time, and not just under heavy acceleration.

I wonder if my pumping vacuum into the vacuum line that's hooked to the vacuum servo, might have unstuck the diaphragm in the cruise control servo? For shits and giggles on the way home from work (20 miles each way) I hit the cruise control button and the light lit up and then I hit the set button and it was working. I tried the resume and accel buttons and they work too. All I know is that I'm super happy to have cruise control working for once on this pickup. Now onto the trans. When under heavy or full acceleration, the trans seems like it shifts from 2nd to 3rd, and then instantly shifts back to 2nd (rpm raises 500 rpm) and then it accelerates and shifts into 3rd gear and then it shifts into OD after a bit. Can someone explain what the governor pressure solenoid, the transducer, the OD lockup solenoid functions are for the auto trans shifting? Since it seems to be a 2nd to 3rd shifting issue, and the rest of the gears feel great, no slippage, I'd like to get it fixed ASAP. Thanks!

What about running a AFE Stage 1 Air Cleaner with a dry AFE filter?

I read online that the VIN has to be programmed with all the letters in the VIN in CAPS. Apparently, it won't do it when the letters are in lower case format.

Can a dealership reflash/program the PCM with a different VIN? I found a PCM that's # 56040199AC and my current PCM is # 56040199AD.

I installed a new clock spring and now my cruise control can turn on and off via the steering wheel switch, but it will not set the cruise control at any speed, even with no brake or ABS lights not being on. I just checked the vacuum line to the cruise control servo, and the line is good because my mity vac did not lose any vacuum when I pumped it up for testing. So would this be a cruise control servo issue or maybe the "set" position on the steering wheel switch?

It will be harder in 4wd on dry hard surfaces like pavement or concrete, but hard packed snow and ice, it will be fine as long as your not going so fast that it won't steer where you're pointing the front tires, and steer straight ahead regardless of where your front tires are pointed. Driving too fast for certain road conditions, usually ends in unfavorable results.

Just for what it's worth, on my other 99 Cummins 4x4, I had very little air going through the vacuum lines to the CAD that I disconnected each one at a time, and blew each one out with an air blow nozzle. It seems as though the rubber ends can deteriorate on the inside enough to plug up the inside of the black and red lines from the t-case to the CAD. After I blew them out, my 4wd kicked in a lot faster, and it kicked out into 2wd mode faster too.

There's only the rear ABS sensor in the rear diff (already installed a new sensor) and my pickup only has rear anti-lock brakes.

Could the ABS codes that I've been getting, is because my tires are 285/75R16 and not the stock 245/75R16 tires, which makes my speedo 4 mph slow?

Regarding my seat belt light staying on, it flashes like normal and then after a bit it goes solid and stays on until I shut the pickup off. Can this be a CTM or PCM issue?

My current PCM shows that it was reprogrammed by the dealer in 2002, so I think they are able to re-flash/re-program it.

Anyone have any input on using a 99 Cummins 4x4 47RE PCM that was programmed for 4 wheel ABS on my 99 Cummins 4x4 47RE (both trucks are Laramie SLT with the same options) that only has rear ABS? Will it throw a constant ABS/brake light on the dash, and will it throw a CEL due to the PCM having a different VIN?I need some help with this ASAP please.

If I buy a used PCM for a 99 Dodge Cummins 4x4 with an auto trans, will it constantly throw a VIN mismatch code or will that only be stored in memory? Also, will it put my pickup in limp mode or will there be any other negative side effects?

I need PCM though.

Nobody has any insight on this? Where is the most reputable place to purchase a brand new PCM that will be programmed according to my VIN on the pickup?

If the PCM was on a 99 Cummins QCLB 3500 4x4 with a 47RE trans that might have had 4 wheel ABS, and since my 99 only has rear ABS, will that make the ABS light pop up on the dash all the time?

I found a known good used PCM from a 99 Cummins 4x4 Quad Cab Laramie SLT with a 47RE trans and Federal Emissions just like my pickup is set up for $150. I know that the PCM VIN won't match my pickup, but will it do anything off besides throw the vin mismatch code?

Yes, I will be checking that this weekend to ensure that the AC noise is down in the acceptable level. I don't want it wiping out my new Timbo APPS or anything else.