01_Cummins_4x4

I bought a 2016 Ram Cummins 2500 Crew cab short bed Laramie 4x4 on May 30th, 2026. Everything was working great until a week and a half ago, when my DEF reductant sensor started pegging empty or full repeatedly. I looked up the reductant sensor, and it was around $700. I figured that it was time for a full delete instead. I bought a complete SPELAB delete kit for $1,224 shipped - EGR valve and cooler delete, DEF, DPF, and SCR delete, and it came with a H&S Mini Maxx V2 tuner for the delete tune, and that includes Tow, Performance, and Extreme tunes. Also, I bought their 3.5" intake horn and intake manifold plate (comes with its own coil grid heater) to delete the OEM grid heater. You will definitely need the IAT sensor extension harness too. I installed the delete tune file first, as that is the recommended first step before removing any hard parts. I did that, and my check engine light for the DEF reductant sensor was gone. I ran the truck down the road to just check the Tow, Performance, and Extreme power tunes, and while I could tell they definitely modify the fuel and timing and added more power and torque. I decided to leave it on the "No Power" delete tune only. I already bought a like new Edge Juice with Attitude for the truck, so I was just going to use it for the power adder since I trust Edge tuning more than H& S Mini Maxx, since H&S has been out of business since the EPA heavily fined them in 2012 or 2013. Next, I removed the OEM intake horn (which removes the EGR valve and throttle valve), intake manifold plate and installed the grid heater delete kit. The only real PITA for that, was removing the fuel injector lines to install the intake manifold plate. Other than that, it was a pretty straightforward install. Then, I removed the EGR pipe and EGR cooler and installed the (2) EGR cooler block off plates onto the exhaust manifold. The 2nd block off plate comes predrilled and tapped for an EGT probe, which made it fast to install the Edge EGT probe. I haven't had a chance to remove my DEF tank, DPF or the SCR yet, but the truck runs really good now. I just got my Edge Juice with Attitude and my cabin air filter and door installed yesterday, so I figured sometime this next weekend, the exhaust delete kit will get installed. Full delete kit Grid heater delete kit View full Cummins article

I just deleted my 16 Ram 2500 Cummins, with a non-Banks intake manifold with grid heater, and intake plate, and the egr valve and cooler delete. I still need to install the DPF, DEF, and SCR delete yet. I know Banks makes great products, but if you think about the size of the intake manifold, and Banks claiming theirs flows the most CFM, it's still gonna hit the intake chamber in the head, where that will be the bottleneck. The intake chamber can only flow the same amount of air unless you buy a head that's been ported or modified to flow more cfm than the stock head. I just couldn't justify spending $720+ for an intake manifold when my whole delete kit was $1,225 for tuner with delete tune and performance tunes, and EGR, DPF, DEF, SCR delete. My DEF reductant sensor started being wonky and constantly flopping back and forth between empty and full. A new sensor was like $700+, so I bit the bullet and deleted my truck a little sooner than expected.

I just installed a brand-new actuator on the 2016 Ram 2500 Laramie CCSB 4x4 I got a week and half ago. It had the U010C code and installing the new actuator and then using alfaobd to calibrate it, worked great! I don't have a core charge for it, so I could open it up and look for any telltale signs of damage.

It's standard practice for me to isolate user personal data - pictures, videos, music, documents, downloads, and specialty software installs onto a separate partition or secondary SSD drive, to minimize or negate any loss of personal data. I have (2) AAAS computer degrees, and I was taught to protect personal data as priority #1.

B+ cable from Alternator You remove the battery + cable that goes from the alternator to the PDC, which is routed in the harness across the front of the engine over to the PDC. Then you shorten it and you should install a breaker as shown in the attached link and connect it from your B+ post on the alternator and connect it to the Battery + on the passenger side battery.

I have the Wolfbox G900 Pro and I run split screen with the front and rear cameras at the same time. It works great! I even have footage of a bull moose running in front of my RAM during this last Elk hunting season.

I've drove over a couple hundred miles so far, including on the same exact road the death wobble occurred while doing 60 to 90 mph, and no death wobble yet.

I just saw this thread this evening. I'm sorry for not seeing it sooner 😔 Is Mark doing alright now? Mike, how are things at your place now? Doug

I got my Dodge into Les Schwab because my friend works there doing alignments. With the lower adjustable control arms set at 19.5" center to center, my caster is at 3.6° positive caster, my toe and camber were right on. We did tighten up the bolts first that hold the adjustable track bar upper mount to the left frame rail. That was loose which caused my death wobble.

The adjustable track bar is brand-new also, as I installed it not very long ago. I usually get a 2nd person to move the steering wheel back and forth for me so I can check for any free/excessive movement. I've got an appointment with Les Schwab this coming Friday afternoon for an alignment.

I just installed brand-new Bilstein 5100 shocks on all corners, and a new set of adjustable control arms. There's no play in any of the newer ball joints. I don't see any play in the crossover steering heim joints. The tires are load range E that were on my nephew's brand-new 2024 Laramie Cummins with only 15k miles on it. My next task will be getting it aligned for toe-in and caster adjustments.

Damn that sucks! Sorry to hear ACS is dragging their feet on customer service and a fair turnaround time to get you your ECM back to you.

It definitely sounds like a ignition timing issue to me as well. Do you know if the ECM still has an existing tune - Smarty, Quadzilla, etc., that might have introduced timing mods other than the stock ignition timing? If the ECM wasn't returned to the stock tune, it might have too aggressive of ignition timing programmed into it, causing the knock issue.

I think the crossmember flange head bolts 15mm in socket size are like M10 and about 1-1/2" long. The nuts are flange style nuts and I think they are 18mm in size.

A few months ago I experienced death wobble in my 01 Cummins 4wd at 60 mph, and it was violent and scary. It was the very first time I've personally had it happen to me. I know my shocks look like older OEM style shocks, so I just got in a new set of Bilstein 5100 shocks to put on it, and I got a new set of adjustable control arms so I can adjust them to get some positive caster in the front end. My ball joints were replaced by the previous owner who I got the truck from, and they still are tight with no play in them. After I install the new shocks, control arms, new heater and evaporator cores, I'll get an alignment done on it.

I agree with Moparman, in that if you live where it gets cold with snow and ice, then the 200 degree + thermostat is the best way to go. I installed a 205 degree Mishimoto t-stat in my 2001, and it made it warmer. My heater core doesn't put out enough heat, so I'll be installing a new heater core here shortly. My AC blows cold, but I'm installing a new evaporator core at the same time since they take the brunt of all the dirt and crap that blows in from the cowl.

I just got this 75 Chevy Cheyenne SWB 4x4 from a friend of mine for $3,500. He just put a brand-new set of $1,400 35x12.5R15 Mastercraft Courser MXT tires on a set of $900 new Black aluminum 15x10 wheels. It has a modified SBC with an Edelbrock Performer RPM intake and a newer 750 Holley 4 bbl carb, and a set of headers. I just got a set of nice Enkei 15x10 wheels for it, since Black wheels don't look right on a grecian bronze and frost white two-tone paint job. It will be getting repainted in those two factory colors.

I have found Royal Purple on sale at my local parts store, and it was cheaper than any of the other name brands of oil, so I went with the RP.

I have 110 switches on my work network that I manage. We have around 30-40 different VLANs, and we separate them by traffic type. We have data vlans, VoIP vlans, and security/camera vlans in every building in our campus network.

You could use some synthetic ATF+4 like Royal Purple or Valvoline.

Congratulations to you both! Life is too short to live alone. Having a life partner to share the lows, highs, smiles, laughter, tears, as well as, the same interests and hobbies, all contribute to making each of us stronger, healthier, and gives us a sense of purpose to live for each other.

I bet both bands are too loose now after 10 years. For a couple hours of time, and a trans filter and some ATF, it would be a simple thing to adjust them to see if it helps your issue.

Both bands should be adjusted as they probably have never been done unless the trans has been fully rebuilt. I just adjusted both bands on my buddy's 48RE, and now it shifts correctly from 2nd to 3rd gear without having the shift delay it was having.

Gates, Murray, NAPA, and other vendors who both make cooling system products have been bought out by Motorad. I've had a few issues with Motorad t-stats, so I bought a 205 deg t-stat from Mishimoto, and with my aftermarket aluminum new radiator and coolant, it will run 190 - 192 while cruising down the highway at this time of year.