01_Cummins_4x4

The 1500's use 2.5" wide leaf springs and hangers. The Cummins trucks use 3". I don't believe there is a thinner/thicker difference in the pickup frames, just the front suspension parts are beefier to hold up to the weight of the Cummins engine. The cab & chassis models are built heavier after the trans crossmember, so those frames are different. From what I've read the cab should just be a bolt on setup - regular cab to regular cab frame, and quad cab to quad cab frame.

Are you sure that it's plastic? The only components internally that have any kind of plastic like material, is the oil pickup tube inlet screen, and the shift fork pads, but that chunk of material doesn't look like it's from those internal parts. Can you just grab them with a pair of long needle nose pliers, or a 3 finger grab it tool and pull them out through the drain hole?

My nephew never got a chance to see if his turbo actuator was at fault. His pickup would use just a little bit of coolant, but it would never leak it externally, or run any hotter than the thermostat temp. He installed a new coolant recovery tank in case the existing one had a small crack in it somewhere, which didn't make a difference with the new one. The pickup never ran abnormal either like if it had a head gasket issue. It would just barely heat up a little above the normal mark on the temp gauge when you put a load on it climbing a fairly steep grade on the highway. He took it to the 1st dealer, and they couldn't figure out where the coolant was going. They "said" that they installed a new radiator cap on the coolant recovery tank and couldn't determine what it was when they had it for a week. Then my nephew drove it up to Lewiston ID to Roger's Dodge where he bought it, and they had it for 2-1/2 weeks. They said that they did a compression check on all 6 cylinders and didn't see any issue there. They said that they found some exhaust gases in the coolant system, but that it wasn't the head gasket. I told my nephew that it has to be the EGR cooler has a crack in it letting the exhaust gases enter the cooling system. Their tech said that they checked the EGR cooler, but I highly doubt they did. After 3-1/2 weeks of no definitive answer, he traded it in and got a brand-new 2024 Ram Cummins 2500 4x4 pickup.

I'm sorry that I was only on here intermittently the last couple months. When I traded my 01 Sport SLT HO 2500 Ram Cummins for a 03 Duramax Crew Cab long bed 4x4, that the shady individual who I got it from had made a lot of false statements about it having a rebuilt Allison trans, new CP3 pump, new injectors, new glow plugs, etc. with paperwork, then I find out that all of it was BS lies. I was just getting depressed enough just thinking about having to work on the spaghetti nest under the hood or if the engine or trans was going to blow up and leave me with no way to pay for a replacement. The Duramax wasn't leaving me high and dry yet, but it was going to need the typical tranny cooler lines and steering box replaced, which was going to be around $700 after sending the core in on a Blue Top Steering gear box. At least now that I'm in a better 01 Cummins 4x4 quad cab long bed 4x4 (my favorite diesel), which came with a nicely built auto trans (with paper receipt from trans shop in Bend) and it has all the engine performance upgrades done to it. It will need minor repairs like a steering box due to too much play, and a power steering pump since it's noisy. It needs the following things to make it 100% again. 1. Instrument cluster LED bulbs 2. 190 deg thermostat because someone installed a 180 deg one 3. Heater treater fix (on order) and blend door actuator (already have) 4. Both front seat bottom foam and covers - typical Dodge seats 5. CB mount and high quality coax cable 6. Double din stereo with backup camera 7. Door decals and grille emblem - ordered 8. Replace the trans shift indicator PRND2L 9. Install new headlights with HID headlight bulbs - already have 10. Install under hood LED light kit - already have 11. Install Pos and Neg bus bars for better management of powering up accessories 12. Replace bad fuel tank sending unit - ordered it 13. Buy and winch bumper and winch 14. Install grid heater solenoids and cables to grid heater - previous owner deleted them 15. Fix minor engine oil pan leak Mike, if you need any assistance with the website or store, please just let me know, or if you just need to talk about your day, I'm here to listen Brother. My Dad passed away Jan 2019 from a brain cancer tumor that grew back in 5 months after it was removed at OHSU. I wouldn't wish cancer on anyone ever.

I had a new FelPro 9522PT with new head studs and it failed within a 1k miles, but I think it was too much timing on the Quadzilla tune that I was running at the time. I swapped over to a Cometic MLX head gasket # COMC5855-067. I didn't have any more issues after that.

Those were pics the respectful young man sent me of it. I tried the skateboard thing as a teenager, and always found small rocks to have it buck me off. I drove down to Bend and back last Sunday for the trade.

After I had a stent installed in my heart Nov 8th, 2023, I lost some muscle strength in my legs, which resulted in my left knee (7 surgeries) not liking the heavy aftermarket clutch in my 01 Sport HO 6 speed. I traded it for a different diesel 4x4, but I just traded it for this 01 Ram 2500 Laramie SLT long bed 4x4 with 4-wheel disk brakes and 4-wheel ABS. It has an actual 195k miles on it from the vehicle record I paid for, which shows the same number of miles on the odometer. It definitely hits a lot harder than the other 3 Cummins 4x4 trucks I've had before. It It has the following upgrades. 1. FASS 165 lift pump 2. Borg-Warner 364sxe turbo 3. Aftermarket air filter 4. 4" exhaust 5. Edge Comp box tuner 6. Head studs 7. OEM Cummins head gasket 8. OEM Cummins valve seals 9. Power Stroke Products cylinder head 10. 5/16" push rods 11. Xtreme Diesel Perf P 108# valve springs 12. Xtreme Diesel Perf VP44 13. 150 hp injectors 14. New Starter 15. New built $4,400 auto trans 11/23 with paperwork 16. Crossover steering 17. Traction bars 18. Limited slip rear diff 19. New ball joints & wheel bearings 20. Aluminum radiator 21. MESA keyless entry with remote start 22. Custom LED tail lights 23. Mishimoto trans cooler 24. Kenwood deck with amp and all new speakers and subwoofer box under rear seat 25. 4" suspension lift 26. Rear air bags 27. Aftermarket exhaust manifold - haven't looked at it yet to see which one it is. 28. Glow Shift gauges for boost, fuel, trans temp, and EGT At least now that I'm in a better 01 Cummins 4x4 quad cab long bed 4x4 (my favorite diesel), which came with a nicely built auto trans (with paper receipt from trans shop in Bend) and it has all the engine performance upgrades done to it. It will need minor repairs like a steering box due to too much play, and a power steering pump since it's noisy. It needs the following things to make it 100% again. 1. Instrument cluster LED bulbs 2. 190 deg thermostat because someone installed a 180 deg one 3. Heater treater fix (on order) and blend door actuator (already have) 4. Both front seat bottom foam and covers - typical Dodge seats 5. CB mount and high quality coax cable 6. Double din stereo with backup camera 7. Door decals and grille emblem - ordered 8. Replace the trans shift indicator PRND2L 9. Install new headlights with HID headlight bulbs - already have 10. Install under hood LED light kit - already have 11. Install Pos and Neg bus bars for better management of powering up accessories 12. Replace bad fuel tank sending unit - ordered it 13. Buy and winch bumper and winch 14. Install grid heater solenoids and cables to grid heater - previous owner deleted them 15. Fix minor engine oil pan leak

Your pickup looks really nice, but I still like the copper shaded color you had on it better. I know you didn't have a choice because it was discontinued, which is a shame.

I'd have to look again, but like 190k 2001 factory Ram Sport 2500 HO 6 speed long bed 4x4 with 3.54 gears and a factory limited slip Dana 80 rearend. It has the following. A $10k new paint job in August 2023, with a new steel cowl hood, visor, new windshield, new Mopar rear tinted slider window, etc. I can show the body shop paperwork as proof. New Mopar authentic Sport OEM replacement decals New door seals Newer 35x12.5R17 Maxxis Razr MT tires and aftermarket wheels Dash cover installed from previous owner before I bought the pickup in 12/2020 Edge Juice with Attitude CTS2 Industrial Injection VP44 pump. Airdog 150 lift pump system S & B air cleaner AFE intake horn 100 HP DAP SAC injectors 4" exhaust system Aftermarket performance clutch system 4th gen steering linkage Bilstein shocks Redhead steering box BD diesel adjustable Trac bar Thuren front lift coil springs New heater & evaporator cores New blend door actuator Heater treater blend door fix Pioneer double din stereo with remote Compustar keyless entry, with alarm and remote start capability. Head studs Cometic MLX head gasket with new valve seals and head was decked at machine shop New radiator, water pump, t-stat, and clutch fan. New high side A/C line with orifice tube. New driver's side bottom seat foam and cover New front adjustable control arms and alignment. Newer 4th gen style towing mirrors. No Christmas tree lights stuck on in the instrument cluster. I'm keeping my winch bumper and winch unless the trade has them on it as well. I have a stock chrome front bumper to put on it.

I'm trying to remember if the PCM has anything to do with the security/keyless entry, or is that all handled by the CTM? My left leg/knee cannot handle the performance clutch in my 6 speed 4x4 anymore, so I need to find a built auto trans to swap for or try to trade my pickup with its complete brand-new paint job for an auto trans pickup that's had the trans rebuilt.

His pickup only has 100k miles on it, and it's been well taken care of inside and out.

I tested it again with the temp gun at a 45* angle like you suggested, and I got to 160 temp. Now here's another question for you all. Since selecting "Max AC" mode while in full heat, my blower motor spins much harder and faster, resulting in excellent heat output, like way hotter temps. It's not beneficial to drive in the humid or middle of winter on recirc air obviously, so having to switch it from Max A/C to defrost or defrost/floor blend, is more cumbersome. I've never heard of it done yet, hence this question. Is there a way to modify the heater blower motor to blow as hard as it does on Max A/C, and to have it blow that same amount on the regular "outside air" heat modes?

My nephew bought a 2013 Ram 2500 Laramie 4x4 a month ago, that was already DEF and DPF deleted. We are assuming that the EGR might be deleted with block off plates, but the EGR pipe is still on it, we just haven't had time to remove it to check for sure. He's getting U010C and U010E popping up, but no driveability issues whatsoever. He has normal power and boost conditions. U010C is lost communication with the turbocharger control module, which could be the turbo actuator. U010E is lost communication with the reductant control module, but I figured it's because it's been deleted. What is the best tuner for him to buy that would help him out since he's deleted? Thanks!

I think I won even more now. As I was driving it back down the mountain from my family's ranch, I had the infrared thermometer right against the dash vents, on full heat/ high fan speed, and I got 171* max temp.

I finally got my new adjustable control arms and Thuren front lift springs installed. I removed the front lift spacers to get a smoother ride out of the front suspension. I was able to drive it and when it's fully warmed up, I'm getting 150° temp out the dash vents on full heat and highest fan setting. That's like 50° hotter than it was before.

I know that to truly clean a heater core or radiator is via the rod method, but this coolant has less than 1k miles on it. This coolant still looks new, no cloudiness, not dirty looking. I haven't ever done a coolant flush on this pickup, just a drain and refill. There must have been some residual debris that fell into the coolant ports of the block when I was changing the head gasket the last time. I should've just done a coolant flush then after redoing the head gasket.

My Dodge heater core had some debris in it, but the coolant is fresh and clear from redoing the Cometic MLX head gasket and head studs less than 5k miles ago. I flushed it and ran CLR through it 3 times (2hr soak the 1st time), and then kept flushing it both directions between the supply and return lines until there were no more debris coming out. Then I did the poor man's toe-in measurement of the 4th gen steering linkage. I have yet to install my brand new adjustable control arms and my Thuren front coil springs before getting it aligned again. As soon as I can get it fired up again, I'll post the results of the temps. In the FSM, in the heating & air conditioning section on page 24-7 it talks about a diode that might need to be replaced. What is it for and where at in the wiring harness is it located?

Update, but it's with my lifted and TRD supercharged 3.4 5 speed 97 SR5 4x4 4Runner, which was having only warm air despite having a brand new heater core. On max fan speed and full hot on the temp control, the highest temp was 129°. I just flushed the heater core by itself with CLR, letting it set in the core for 1.5 hrs. I blew the core out with compressed air. I filled the heater core twice with water and blowing that out with air until nothing but clean water came out. Now on full heat and max fan speed, I get 165° heat coming out. Now I'm doing the same process with my Dodge tonight. I might just do the process twice on it for good measure.

Mike, if my supply heater hose is not as hot (same temp) as the coolant, what would I look at for diagnosis of that issue?

My 01 Cummins has the worst heater output compared to the other two Dodge Cummins 4x4 pickups I had. They would roast me out of the cab and cause me to turn the temperature down. This pickup I leave on high and it's still not hot like it should be. I've always had a lack of heat and lack of cold AC with this rig. I already put a brand new heater core and evaporator core in it, new NAPA 190° t-stat, new water pump, new radiator, new radiator fan clutch, new blower motor, new hvac reastat, and heater treater blend door adapter. My EJWA says it's running at 190° at full temp while driving it. I timed the factory blend door actuator per their instructions when I installed the heater treater adapter. I went ahead and bought a brand new blend door actuator and will be installing it this weekend. I'm hoping it's just a faulty blend door actuator not allowing the temp blend door to not fully go to full heat or cold positions. Besides doing that, is there anything else I should look at for troubleshooting? I'm going to check the temps at the heater hoses and radiator hoses again to see what they're at when it's at full temp. Thanks!

My pickup has the IEM wiring. The driver's side door ajar switch has the tan wire, black/green wire, and the white wire that feeds the power to the passenger side door ajar switch. I patched the passenger power step motor to the white wire, and the driver's side power step motor to the tan wire. Both power steps activate with the driver's door ajar switch because it feeds the passenger side door ajar switch at the same time. At first I was hoping to make them independent of each other, but it really doesn't bother me that they both activate at the same time.

For the driver's side door, I should be able to tap into the Tan wire? For the passenger side door, I should be able to tap into the white feed wire that comes from the left side? Thanks!

How do I remove the door ajar switch so I can verify which wire is hot? I've never changed them in a Dodge yet, only the screw in style in the old square body Chevy's I had years ago.

So, how does the door jamb switch at each door trip the Dome light to turn on then if there isn't 12v power at the door jamb switches? Is it at the CTM? I'm used to old Square body Chevy with a 12v feed wire at each door ajar switch.

I did connect the driver's side power step wire to the black/light green wire, and it doesn't do anything. Which color are the wires on each side that feed to the Dome light? Is it supposed to be the tan sense wire on the driver's side, and the black/light blue wire on the passenger side? How do you remove the door jamb switches to investigate which colors are doing what?