01_Cummins_4x4

On Dec 9th 2020 I bought a water pump from O'Reilly's and installed it in my pickup. All was good until last night when it went out. It leaked enough coolant out that the radiator fan airflow splashed it into my alternator and caused it to quit charging. My Edge Juice with Attitude said I had 11.8V when I got home. I found my receipt for the water pump and it says it's a Murray CP7145 and it doesn't fit my 01 Cummins, even though that's what O'Reilly's gave me. The pump they gave me fits a 98 and older 12V. A Murray CP6148 fits my 01 and it has a different pump blade design. The 98 pump has a curved plate on it while the 01 style pump doesn't have the curved plate on top of the blades. Is running the 98 style pump on an 01 the reason why the pump went out? My alternator is the Bosch unit and of course O'Reilly's doesn't have one in stock. I did spray it with electronic parts cleaner and used my air compressor to dry it out. I'm going to have O'Reilly's test my alternator to see if it's dead or not.

@Mopar1973Man Do you know if a 2001 manual 6 speed truck (mine) would run an auto trans with the manual PCM? The auto trans would shift 1st - 3rd, but not have OD or trans temp alert? Sycostang's truck is a 01 but his came with keyless entry and security, and my 01 Sport came with everything except for keyless entry and security.

I can't remember if the Central Timer Module is the only one that controls keyless entry? I don't remember anything about the PCM having any role in the keyless entry aspect of it. We both have 01 Trucks but yours came from the factory with keyless entry, and mine did not. I have since added a Compustar keyless entry alarm system to mine though.

Certain codes can be set without a CEL being on. Do you have gauges for fuel pressure, boost, and EGT?

Use a scanner and check for any trouble codes being set first.

On my buddy's 07.5 3500 4x4, some of his popping was from the front axle control arms, and his intermediate steering column shaft.

Here's my '16 Harley Tri Glide Ultra in Cosmic Blue Pearl (one year color). So far, it has Vance and Hines full exhaust system, Screamin' Eagle stage 1 air cleaner, Power Vision and Target Tune tuner, Legend Suspension front and back, 1.25" rear lift kit, 10" apes, and Harley heated grips. Waiting on my buddy so we can install my Fueling Reaper 574 cams, Screamin' Eagle perfect fit pushrods, Torrington inner cam bearings, and .030" head gaskets. I'm having an Upholstery shop make a custom seat cover for my CVO heated Hammock seat.

I built my 2018 TPC 450X in a week's time. I'm the only person in Oregon with one. It's a 2008 Honda TRX 450ER and 05 Honda CRF 450R combination of parts. It's right at 50 HP and is a blast to ride.

We just pull the clusters out and swap the auto trans gear indicator for my manual trans plate. We don't have to swap clusters at all.

I think you have another vacuum line leak - maybe from the firewall area down to the t-case, or under the hood again. It sounds like when it's cold the break is evident, but when things warm up, it could seal itself up somewhat.

I just put a redhead box on my truck and it was quite a bit better than the OEM stock unit. My buddy bought a blue top and he likes his as well. I've heard Redhead can be finicky when it comes to warranty issues, but I think it's mostly their process to figure out what the issue truly is before sending the box in for warranty/repair. PSC is a lot of money and not having any direct experience with them, I don't know if paying twice the money is worth going that route unless you intend on running 37"+ size tires. https://bluetopsteeringgears-com.3dcartstores.com/2869-4-94-02-Dodge-Ram-1500-2500-3500-2X4-4X4-181-_p_39.html You can send in your OEM (not aftermarket) steering gear and they will rebuild yours into their blue top gear box. The blue top is cheaper than the redhead and probably has better customer service.

That's what I meant about the PCM harness, that it's the whole engine harness which should be a simple swap between both trucks.

Can't we just swap the PCM harness for the transmissions? I know I can flash the ECM with a Smarty and load the stock tune for the manual or auto trans, that's what I did on the 99 Cummins 4x4 I had a few years ago. If both trucks are the same year and have the same ABS setup, could we swap ECM and PCM modules in pairs between the trucks? When I did the 47RE to NV4500 on that 99 4WD Cummins I did, I just flashed the ECM with the manual trans stock tune which gave it the anti-stall feature. I'm trying to remember does the PCM control how and when the auto trans shifts via the electronics in trans? Also, isn't there a trans relay in the PDC that I would need for the auto trans? That's funny as when I was shopping for another Dodge Cummins 4x4, I couldn't find anything that had a verified built auto trans and I wasn't going to take a chance on an auto trans truck off of a car lot, that's why I grabbed this 6 speed truck in Dec 2020.

If I remember correctly the HO has higher compression in the engine vs the SO engine. Sycostang67, I'm definitely interested!

My truck has 197k on it. I bought in Dec 2020 and it already had the aftermarket clutch and hydraulics in it. The only thing I've added is a short throw shifter tower kit in it.

I don't want the ratchet shifter as it would cost a lot more money than just swapping out the steering column and shifter linkages, unless someone was selling a used ratchet shifter for a great deal.

I had my 99 engine, so I'm not totally sure if the 01 stock tune file is the exact same as the 99. A call to Mads would be your best avenue as they would probably know.

I was curious if anyone on here has done the reverse and went from a manual to an auto trans? In my 99 Cummins 4x4 that I used to have a few years ago, I swapped out the auto trans and installed a rebuilt NV4500 that my buddy and I overhauled and installed a brand new South Bend single disk clutch. I kept my ECM and PCM and installed a manual trans stock tune file from Mads with a Smarty and it ran great after that. At the time my left knee had stage 4 arthritis in it and it wasn't liking a stiff clutch at all, so I found a friend that had a verified rebuilt auto trans with paperwork from Baker City, and we spent a long day swapping transmissions and input shafts in the t-cases, and all the other related hardware. I have this 01 Cummins HO factory 6 speed truck now that has an aftermarket clutch and hydraulics (shifts great) in it, and more often lately I'm thinking of finding someone with a verified built auto trans to swap with. My truck has an Industrial Injection VP44 pump, 100 HP SAC DAP injectors, S & B air cleaner setup, Quadzilla tuner, AFE intake horn, 4" exhaust system, and an Airdog 150 lift pump, so I don't want to trade the truck for an auto truck unless the auto trans can be verified fully rebuilt and has the same performance mods that I have in my truck. My left knee has been fully replaced in Oct 2018, but I still cannot bend it past 95* since I have scar tissue that's built up in my quadricep muscle right above the knee joint. My ortho doc said that he could give me a chemical cocktail to knock me out and force it manually to bend further at the risk of breaking something else in the process. I know I'd have to swap trans, flywheel, clutch, hydraulics, t-case, driveshafts, pedals, shifters and linkages, steering columns, TV cable for APPS, and probably PCM harnesses. I'm assuming that I'd have to swap the PCM for the auto trans to shift correctly? I guess if both trucks were 2001 with the same ABS setup, could a person just swap the ECM and PCM modules, or since mine is a HO and theirs would be a SO truck, would that not work? Just trying to get some ideas...

You can flash the ECM with a stock manual trans file from Mads with a Smarty too, as I did that with my 99 Cummins that I swapped a 5 speed into.

When I replaced the heater core and evaporator core in March of 2021. I thoroughly cleaned the inside of the HVAC box. I don't park anywhere near trees and mostly I park my truck in my climatized shop.

I pulled into my shop right after driving 20 miles home from work and left my truck idling turned the heater on high and probed the heater core hoses again. Hot side was 194* and the return side was 182*.

Just as soon as I got home and parked my truck in my shop, I popped the hood and scanned both heater hoses headed towards the heater core. The inside hose which is going to the driver's side tube of heater core was at 178* and the outside hose going to the passenger side tube of the heater core was at 172*. I have a brand new heater core, brand new NAPA 190* t-stat, brand new water pump, and brand new radiator that is clean (new looking on the inside with no scale and new looking on the outside). New antifreeze was installed when replacing the head gasket and t-stat a couple months ago. I don't see how the heater core could be plugged up with all new components.

That's the video I watched when I installed their transposer, and recalibrated my actuator.

@Tractorman - How can I check the temperature blend door for full range of motion? I already calibrated the actuator per the heatertreater.net website when I installed their transposer. I'm not pulling the HVAC box out to check it, so do I need to cut a window in the HVAC box to verify that the blend door is moving all the way in both directions, and then fabricate a cover to fit over the window that I cut into the box? I have a problem with the AC on this truck as well, in that it won't blow cold for very long and it turns to lukewarm air even with a brand new evaporator core, vacuumed down properly with no leak detected and then 2# of R134 injected into the AC system. Thanks, Doug

I'm running a brand new NAPA 190* t-stat. I installed it at the same time I installed a new Fel-Pro head gasket and head studs. Running down the road my temperature gets to 190* when it's fully warmed up.