01_Cummins_4x4

Welcome Colton!

I would think the valve seals have probably hardened up from it sitting for long periods of time without being driven.

Hopefully you can at least get it power washed before the weather turns too cold. I wouldn't like to see you arm pit deep into that oily mess to work on it. So much for those clothes after working on that truck if it can't be cleaned beforehand. Do you at least have a heated shop to work on it in to swap the motor out?

If the driveshaft is whining, then there's definitely something wrong with it for sure. Hopefully it not being 100% is the cause of the seal walking out of its spot in the case.

Wouldn't that oil leak be considered a gusher? Damn what a mess that is! Power washer with hot water to the rescue.

Sycostang, I just noticed that your Amber Brown color wrap is close to the factory 01 Dodge color PVL - Amber Fire Pearl, which looks to have less brown in the paint code. I'm thinking about repainting my 01 with this Amber Fire Pearl color!

I haven't drove my Cummins much since redoing the head gasket again this last spring/summer, because I ride my Harley when the weather is nice. Lately since it's colder now, I noticed that my Napa 190* t-stat tends to bounce around in temp while driving down the road. It will be at 190-195* and then sometimes I see it drop down to 183*. I'm used to a t-stat staying at the temperature that it's rated for, so I don't know if this is an issue or not. I still need to test the blend door yet for full travel of hot and cold. I did time the blend door actuator when I installed the heater treater, but I might just buy a new actuator and install it.

Also, the lifter galley cover gasket only goes on one way. If you install it wrong side out, it will leak A LOT of oil in a hurry.

I'm trying to find the info that I saw a few months ago, but a certain year or years of Chevy Duramax rear driveshaft is supposed to fit our long box pickups with certain u-joints. I'm still trying to find that info again.

The leak detector dye should still remain in the system, and is probably the easiest way to locate a leak vs using soap and water. Yes, the water drain is located on the passenger side firewall below the PCM. Make sure that it's not plugged up and can evacuate any condensation in the evaporator core.

It should. I had it cleaned, decked, and new valve seals installed when I installed the Fel Pro head gasket in Oct 2021 and it only had 4k miles on it.

I swapped out the crappy Fel Pro gasket that blew out between cylinder #1 and the front of the head. I ordered and installed a brand new Cometic MLX multi layer stopper steel head gasket .067" thick # C5855-067 I ordered a 10 Oz bottle of ARP Ultra Torque head stud lubricant to ensure I had plenty of it.

Could this be the issue why my head gasket blew in 5 months? With the stock HX35 turbo on a HO 5.9, Quadzilla Adrenaline and 100hp nozzles, the boost would rise much-much quicker than stock and I believe the combustion pressure was too great for the head gasket

Check your trailing arms as well, They could be worn and moving enough to cause popping sounds and crappy steering characteristics.

@Auto Computer Specialist Can you reprogram my OEM 01 Cummins PCM that is a factory manual transmission truck and program the PCM for an automatic transmission?

Is there any chance that there could've been excessive drive pressure on the cylinder head that could lift it on the studs with a factory HX35 turbo that only reaches 33# max boost? I had a Quadzilla Adrenaline on it at the time and running it on level 3 daily tune. Just trying to figure out why it happened.

Does any company make a MLS head gasket for a 24v ISB?

I certainly don't want another Fel Pro head gasket, and you're saying don't trust a Cummins OE head gasket. Mike, didn't you say something before about the Cummins gasket going due to the possibility of excessive timing? What other choices are there for a great quality head gasket?

Is there any chance that the cylinder head could lift on the studs with a factory HX35 turbo that only reaches 33# max boost? The head was decked by my local reputable machine shop, and the head studs are still torqued at 125 lb ft. I'm just trying to figure out why it happened and the only difference I can think of is the Fel Pro HG is .061" thick and the Cummins OE HG is .067"

What brand did you go with this last time?

I've always used Fel Pro head gaskets on my gas engines, but not on a diesel before. I made two alignment pins out of two of the old head bolts and inserted them into the two holes in the block with the alignment dowels, so there was absolutely NO shifting of the head onto the head gasket as the head was being lowered evenly and parallel to the block.

Did some research today. The NAPA Fel-Pro head gasket PFG9522PT is only .0610" thick. The stock Cummins head gasket 3977063 is .067" thick. .006" thinner for the Fel Pro gasket could very well have caused some issues.

Well, it's not the water pump. It's leaking out the front between the head and block. I just did the new Fel Pro headgasket, head studs, head was hot tanked, decked, and new valve seals all in the latter part of Oct 2021. just checked the Xotic head studs and they are still at 125 lb ft torque. I did exactly as their instructions say with the lube on the washers and threads, 1st step 40 #, 2nd step 80 #, and 125# torque. I cut two of my factory head bolts and made aligning pins out of them and installed them in the holes with the alignment dowels so that there was no chance of scarring the head gasket with the head. The head was installed using an engine crane and was set down on the gasket evenly. Block was extremely cleaned when putting it all together last Oct. Studs were installed per their instructions of just finger tight. I called Xotic and talked to a tech and asked about retorque of the head studs, and the tech said "if the studs are installed per their steps, no retorque is needed." Now I'm wondering if that's BS and they need to have a hot retorque? My truck has the stock HX35 turbo and I've only seen it get to 32 psi max. If it's just the head gasket, which brand would you go with? There's probably only 3,500 miles on it since redoing the headgasket. I'm really pissed off about this since I have tendonitis in my left shoulder and I don't have the funds to pay a shop to replace the head gasket.

My alternator tested fine but my local NAPA alternator tester can't test for AC Noise, just whether or not it's charging. I picked up a new Bosch type alternator from them for $105 and change, because they have a buy 3 items and get 20% off. I kept my alternator since the core is only $14.30. My alternator has a open groove when it should just be the alternator bracket hole, because the PO didn't tighten up the bolt enough to keep it from moving. This new alternator has its testing slip with it and it shows leakage current at .88 mV which equates to .00088 V. Is the leakage current the same as AC noise?