01_Cummins_4x4

BDK, Most likely since the truck has the alarm system, it will have the CTM (Central Timer Module) with (2) plugins in it. It's right above the gas pedal behind the kick panel. Easier way to check is to type the VIN of the truck into here and it will give you the build sheet of the options it was built with at the factory: https://www.vindecoderz.com/ It will say "alarm and keyless entry" as part of the options if it came with them from the factory. I programmed a new FOB to my 99 Cummins before but it's been a while and I don't remember if I had one FOB and just programmed the 2nd new FOB as a backup.

Mike, Are all of your grounds for all the devices you installed that get their power from the PDC, connected at the one fender bolt?

Where is the fog light fuse or relay located at in the TIPM? I didn't see a fuse spot labeled for the fog lights. Is there a specific fuse spot number or relay spot number for them in the TIPM?

My neighbor that lives across the road from my family's ranch on the mountain, has a 2007.5 Cummins 6.7 2500 4x4 pickup that I just installed a brand new Clutch, flywheel and hydraulics in it. A while back he had a different 07.5 2500 Cummins that had fog lights from the factory. He swapped the front bumper assemblies, and swapped in the headlight switch with the fog light function. He can't get the fog lights to come on. I just went into his BCM and turned the fog light functionality on, but when I press the headlight knob in to turn on the fog lights, they still don't come on. The fog lights worked when the setup was on the other 07.5 pickup. I looked in the fuse box (TIPM) but I don't see any fuses labeled for the fog lights, so I assume they run off a relay? Does anyone know if there's a fog light relay or fuse in the TIPM and which spot it's in?

Weird. The only other thing I can think of, is if someone had re-pinned the wiring connector (highly unlikely), but it could be a wiring issue between the TIPM and the steering column. I just re-read @Mopar1973Man initial post regarding testing his 2006 TIPM and had the same results with no changes. If his TIPM is the same part number as the subject truck's, then I'd think it would have the same firmware flashed in it, if they are the same trim level pickup, so that shouldn't be the issue.

I did a ton of work to my buddy's 07.5 Dodge Ram Cummins 3500 SRW 4x4 the last two summers. New ball joints New axle u-joints New shocks on all 4 corners Serviced both diffs, transfer case, and G56 with synthetic fluids TRANSCOOL_2TRANSMISSION COOLER - TRANS-COOL ('05-'18, G56) Synergy adjustable trailing arms Borgeson Universal Telescoping Steering Shafts 000951 Bilstein B8 5100 Series Steering Stabilizers 33-170794 Mopar Replacement T-Style Rod and Link Steering Upgrade Kits 52122362AL Mopar Replacement Pitman Arms 68039930AA 2879ND Redhead Steering Gear 03-08 Dodge 2500, 3500 New Design Now my buddy says that after all that work, his truck drives like a brand new one again. It's never drove as good as it does now. He said it's a pleasure to drive on trips now compared to before when it wanted to take both lanes of the highway to get down the road.

@Mopar1973Man Does the replacement stalk part number cross reference to the part number of the OEM one? I know different trim levels can have a part that only fits that particular model of vehicle.

I've been really busy working on my 01 Dodge Ram 2500 Cummins 4x4. Friday night after work - pull the HVAC box out and replace the heater and evaporator cores. The heater core was the original brass one from the factory, but it was plugged internally. The previous owner just installed a new radiator and I just replaced the water pump about 3 weeks ago. Vacuumed down the A/C system last night, and then recharged it with freon. Yesterday - changed engine oil and filter, install PCM protection mod with soldering in an inline fuse and using a 5A fuse, modify the charging system with the W-T ground mod, install a 150A circuit breaker to protect alternator. What are we supposed to do about the battery temp sensor after doing the W-T Ground mod?

I got them installed after installing new cab lights last Saturday night. The injectors work great now.

I'm running the EJWA on level 3. At 60 mph in 6th gear my rpm is 1,500 - 1,600. My auto trans pickup had 295/75R16 tires on it with 3.55 gears.

Would I lose more temps going from a 4" to 5" exhaust system, vs a different tuner?

Lenny at DAP told me that two of the new injectors were only at 302-303 bar. They reworked all of them so that they are at 312-313 bar now.

In my 01 Sport Cummins HO 6 speed 4x4, I have 3.55 gears, 295/70R18 tires, 4" full exhaust system (no muffler), stock HX35, AFE intake horn, older EJWA, S & B air filter setup, Industrial Injection HO VP, and Airdog 165 LP/filtration system, stock HO injectors. I do have DAP 100 HP injectors to put back into it when I receive them back from DAP. They are new but I sent them back and they found that two of them were at 302-303 bar instead of 310-312 bar, which was causing my idle to be a little bit lopey like a muscle car camshaft. In 6th gear on cruise control running 60 mph, my EGTs are running around 650 - 715. Is that normal or high? I don't remember my 99 Cummins 4x4 with a 47RE but with the same like other performance mods, running that high of EGT at 60 mph. The question I have is: go to 5" full exhaust, or can I control it better by removing the EJWA and installing a Quadzilla Adrenaline with tunes?

My 01 Sport SLT has the CAD on the front axle. My 4x4 has always worked, but the LED "4WD" light in the instrument cluster didn't work. I finally dug out my multi meter and started tracing and verifying continuity in the wiring circuit. I had sense and ground circuit wire continuity on the 2 wire harness from the 4wd indicator light switch on the CAD to the 2 wire plugin at the engine harness connector. I found the #3 joint connector at the passenger side of the front end by the wheel well. I disconnected it and started checking continuity from the CAD harness connector to the #3 joint connector. I had continuity on the sense wiring but not on the ground wire. I clipped the ground wire a couple inches from the CAD wiring connector on the engine harness and found that the wire internally was broken. I soldered on a new piece of wire and heat shrunk it. Now my 4wd light on the dash comes right on. I figured the previous owner must have gotten a little to zealous with the ground wire at some time since the sheath was intact, but the interal copper strands were broken and not burnt.

Are your 7x.0085 SAC or VCO injectors? What HP are they? If you want to sell them, how much do you want for them?

I thought you posted that you can remote start your pickup from within your house. I guess I misunderstood that maybe you were just able to monitor it via your Quadzilla while it was warming up and defrosting the snow off of it. Does anybody have a recommendation for keyless entry/car alarm - Viper, Compustar, Avital, Crimestopper, etc?

@Mopar1973Man Which Remote Start system are you using in your pickup? I kind of want remote start, but it seems most are not compatible with diesel engines with manual transmissions.

DAP won't take the injectors back and exchange them for 75 HP injectors for me, but they will test the pop-off pressure on them under warranty. Should I have them set the BAR on them to a certain pop off pressure since I have the HO pump? I'm new to understanding the pop-off pressure aspect of the pump and injectors.

I talked with Brayden at DAP a little bit ago. He sent me a RMA to send the injectors back to test their pop off pressure. He said DAP sets their 100 HP SAC injectors at 312 Bar. Their 75 HP SAC injectors are set to 308-310 Bar. He looked it up on their system and said they show stock injectors at 307 Bar.

What is the pop off pressure of the HO pump vs the SO pump?

I already sent one new injector back and just installed the replacement in it, and it acts like there's a rv camshaft in the motor. It ran great going down the road for a few miles, just noticed the lopey idle. I took the 100 HP injectors out and put my stock HO injectors back in, and the motor runs smooth like normal again.

So is it just that the DAP injectors' pop off pressure is set too low like Mike mentioned?

I just got my replacement injector yesterday since one of them from the original 6 was causing a severe miss at idle, like the pop off pressure wasn't set right. I put the injector in my 01 Dodge Ram 2500 Cummins HO 6 speed 4x4 that I bought 12/5/2020, and it doesn't miss now, but it lopes like it has a cam in it. Unbeknownst to me as this is my 1st HO Cummins (my two previous were '99 Ram 2500 Cummins with a 47RE trans and SO VP44 pumps. I just found out that my Industrial Injection VP pump that is on my pickup when I bought it, is the HO pump. Apparently since the HO pump is a low volume/ high pressure pump, it can't provide enough fuel to feed the 100 HP injectors, hence the idle not being as smooth as normal. I removed them last night and installed my stock Bosch injectors and it runs smooth like it did before I installed the 100 HP injectors. Since I only put 10 miles on the injectors, can I send them back and exchange them for 75 HP SAC injectors? Thanks, Doug

A DRBIII tool plugs into the OBD2 port, but it is the same tool that the dealership uses to interface with the ECM/PCM. With it you can do some troubleshooting and make some changes to them.

If you have a boost gauge, verify what your max boost pressure is at WOT. If you have the HY35 turbo, it should be like 32 psi max. I wonder if your wastegate is stuck or out of adjustment and causing it to defuel at certain times. It can still be the APPS going bad even though you reset it. You'll have to use a multi meter to verify what it is setting at and compare that to what it's supposed to be at. On the VP44 pump, you need to have a DRBIII tool to check it for any pump codes. If it has any codes in history, clear them out and then drive the truck again to see if any new codes show up. Then you can determine if you have an injection pump going bad or not.