01_Cummins_4x4

In my 01 Sport Cummins HO 6 speed 4x4, I have 3.55 gears, 295/70R18 tires, 4" full exhaust system (no muffler), stock HX35, AFE intake horn, older EJWA, S & B air filter setup, Industrial Injection HO VP, and Airdog 165 LP/filtration system, stock HO injectors. I do have DAP 100 HP injectors to put back into it when I receive them back from DAP. They are new but I sent them back and they found that two of them were at 302-303 bar instead of 310-312 bar, which was causing my idle to be a little bit lopey like a muscle car camshaft. In 6th gear on cruise control running 60 mph, my EGTs are running around 650 - 715. Is that normal or high? I don't remember my 99 Cummins 4x4 with a 47RE but with the same like other performance mods, running that high of EGT at 60 mph. The question I have is: go to 5" full exhaust, or can I control it better by removing the EJWA and installing a Quadzilla Adrenaline with tunes?

My 01 Sport SLT has the CAD on the front axle. My 4x4 has always worked, but the LED "4WD" light in the instrument cluster didn't work. I finally dug out my multi meter and started tracing and verifying continuity in the wiring circuit. I had sense and ground circuit wire continuity on the 2 wire harness from the 4wd indicator light switch on the CAD to the 2 wire plugin at the engine harness connector. I found the #3 joint connector at the passenger side of the front end by the wheel well. I disconnected it and started checking continuity from the CAD harness connector to the #3 joint connector. I had continuity on the sense wiring but not on the ground wire. I clipped the ground wire a couple inches from the CAD wiring connector on the engine harness and found that the wire internally was broken. I soldered on a new piece of wire and heat shrunk it. Now my 4wd light on the dash comes right on. I figured the previous owner must have gotten a little to zealous with the ground wire at some time since the sheath was intact, but the interal copper strands were broken and not burnt.

Are your 7x.0085 SAC or VCO injectors? What HP are they? If you want to sell them, how much do you want for them?

I thought you posted that you can remote start your pickup from within your house. I guess I misunderstood that maybe you were just able to monitor it via your Quadzilla while it was warming up and defrosting the snow off of it. Does anybody have a recommendation for keyless entry/car alarm - Viper, Compustar, Avital, Crimestopper, etc?

@Mopar1973Man Which Remote Start system are you using in your pickup? I kind of want remote start, but it seems most are not compatible with diesel engines with manual transmissions.

DAP won't take the injectors back and exchange them for 75 HP injectors for me, but they will test the pop-off pressure on them under warranty. Should I have them set the BAR on them to a certain pop off pressure since I have the HO pump? I'm new to understanding the pop-off pressure aspect of the pump and injectors.

I talked with Brayden at DAP a little bit ago. He sent me a RMA to send the injectors back to test their pop off pressure. He said DAP sets their 100 HP SAC injectors at 312 Bar. Their 75 HP SAC injectors are set to 308-310 Bar. He looked it up on their system and said they show stock injectors at 307 Bar.

What is the pop off pressure of the HO pump vs the SO pump?

I already sent one new injector back and just installed the replacement in it, and it acts like there's a rv camshaft in the motor. It ran great going down the road for a few miles, just noticed the lopey idle. I took the 100 HP injectors out and put my stock HO injectors back in, and the motor runs smooth like normal again.

So is it just that the DAP injectors' pop off pressure is set too low like Mike mentioned?

I just got my replacement injector yesterday since one of them from the original 6 was causing a severe miss at idle, like the pop off pressure wasn't set right. I put the injector in my 01 Dodge Ram 2500 Cummins HO 6 speed 4x4 that I bought 12/5/2020, and it doesn't miss now, but it lopes like it has a cam in it. Unbeknownst to me as this is my 1st HO Cummins (my two previous were '99 Ram 2500 Cummins with a 47RE trans and SO VP44 pumps. I just found out that my Industrial Injection VP pump that is on my pickup when I bought it, is the HO pump. Apparently since the HO pump is a low volume/ high pressure pump, it can't provide enough fuel to feed the 100 HP injectors, hence the idle not being as smooth as normal. I removed them last night and installed my stock Bosch injectors and it runs smooth like it did before I installed the 100 HP injectors. Since I only put 10 miles on the injectors, can I send them back and exchange them for 75 HP SAC injectors? Thanks, Doug

A DRBIII tool plugs into the OBD2 port, but it is the same tool that the dealership uses to interface with the ECM/PCM. With it you can do some troubleshooting and make some changes to them.

If you have a boost gauge, verify what your max boost pressure is at WOT. If you have the HY35 turbo, it should be like 32 psi max. I wonder if your wastegate is stuck or out of adjustment and causing it to defuel at certain times. It can still be the APPS going bad even though you reset it. You'll have to use a multi meter to verify what it is setting at and compare that to what it's supposed to be at. On the VP44 pump, you need to have a DRBIII tool to check it for any pump codes. If it has any codes in history, clear them out and then drive the truck again to see if any new codes show up. Then you can determine if you have an injection pump going bad or not.

On both of my 99 Dodge Cummins with 47RE transmissions, in OD on flat ground driving I'd get a slight shudder which was the torque converter shudder that was being felt. When I had the trans rebuilt in both pickups with high quality parts, there was no more torque converter shudder.

I just got my 01 Dodge Ram 2500 Sport QCLB HO Cummins 4x4 a month ago, and it didn't come with keyless entry. I looked at the CTM and it is the single plug module and not the premium unit needed for keyless entry. I mostly just want keyless entry and an alarm on the pickup, and don't care about remote start since it has a manual trans. I know of Viper, Compustar, and other brands of keyless entry/alarm systems, but which one would be good without breaking the bank.

Check your IOD and the ECM fuses. You might just have a blown fuse.

Depends upon the year of the truck to whether it has a bulb or LED light. My 01 has a LED 4wd light that won't come on when it's in 4wd mode. It is definitely going into 4x4 mode though. I replaced the 4wd indicator switch, and depressed it fully while it was plugged into the wiring harness, but it still doesn't come on with the ignition in the run position. I'm down to chasing the 4wd light wiring for ground and sense wire continuity now.

Check this article from Mike;

Since I don't know if you have a 2500 or 3500 and what GVWR rating is of your pickup, this is what I can provide; https://www.oreillyauto.com/shop/b/transmission---transaxle-16780/cv-driveshaft-axle-16804/u-joints---axle-shaft-19782/ca50218970c9/2001/dodge/ram-2500?q=u+joints+-+axle+shaft Autozone sucks! They don't even seem to know what u-joint is when looking up a search for it.

Welcome to the forums neighbor. I'm in Athena Oregon so I'm not that far away from Tri Cities.

I just got this 01 Sport SLT 2500 HO 6 speed with an Industrial Injection VP pump, Airdog 165 lift pump filtration system, 4" exhaust system, S&B air filter system, AFE intake horn, and Edge Juice with Attitude tuner. The first few pictures of it are when I bought it 12 days ago. The last couple pictures of of how it is now with my Reunel winch bumper, 12k# winch, and LED cab lights. Next will be a black non sport grille.

I'd be up for one with the LED to light it up. My buddy might be up for a lit up one as well. He just made a billet custom emblem on his CNC machine at his work. I haven't seen it yet though.

No, IIRC that is the normal operation for the belt to be free for a while and then the solenoid in the seats will discharge and lock up until you open the door again.

I pulled the SCTM out and popped the top off it. It looks completely new inside on the circuit board without any visible damage to it. The ball bearing can move around in it's little plastic cage, so that looks normal to me. To my knowledge the front seat belt retractors motors are only for energizing the solenoids for the seat belt. If they have something to do with the seat belt light on the dash, then how would the seat belt retractor sense wire know that the seat belt has been pulled out and buckled? Is this the "Green/Red" wire from my plug that is the "sense" wire? There are no wiring harnesses on the female seat belt receptacles on my 99. How does the SCTM interact with the air bag system? If they are connected, I've already installed a brand new Mopar clock spring on the steering column, so that should be fine. IOD fuse is good, as well as, the seat belt fuse is good. Just trying to figure out why the seat belt light flashes like normal for it's self check during startup, but then it goes solid and stays on constantly until I turn the key to the off position. I don't remember what year the diagram in my thread is from, but obviously it doesn't have the (3) wire plug like my Laramie SLT does with the power seat. My 3 wire plug going from the SCTM to the driver's front seat retractor has these wires; Orange/Black - assuming that is + Black/Green - assuming that is - Green/Red - Is this the sense wire for the seat belt being pulled out? Thanks!

Mike, How do you wire up the backup camera part of the harness? What does the red wires tap in to that come off the yellow RCA jacks? Like you said, the instructions they provide suck!