01_Cummins_4x4

On a side note, and the pickup did this same thing with the old PCM and ECM installed, but after installing the new VIN matched PCM and then the ECM I got from my buddy, my overhead display all works - except for the trip meter.

I agree to replace it, but if he has to work outside in freezing temps, and has nobody close to him to let him use their shop to get out of the weather, then this is an alternative that might allow him to get by until Spring with warmer temps.

The downfall of this is that I will have to return my ECM to stock, which will erase my ABS adjustment for my 35" tires and force my speedo to be off by 10 mph at 60 mph again. I was able to download the Smarty Fed auto image to my 5 speed ECM and now it works normal like an auto trans ECM. No more lopey cam idling issue when first moved to Reverse or Drive from Park. Unfortunately the ABS adjustment for taller tires, only happens when the Smarty is married to the ECM. Once you unmarry it from the ECM to return to stock, the ABS adjustment is erased as well. That was per Bill @ Smarty.

I was watching Garage Squad the other day and they used a brand of cooling system flush that is supposed to clean up the inside of the cooling system to look like new again. They said it worked better at unplugging heater cores than the other brands they have used. I can't remember the name of it, but it can't hurt to try it. You probably have debris up against the evaporator core and that will have to be replaced, but for now make sure there are no leaves built up around your blower motor. You might get lucky and have some there that when removed, might just give you better airflow and heat for now until Spring time.

That's a possibility.

I found a 2 month old Smarty S03 for $300 and I bought a Fed auto 99 Cummins software image from Mads for $120. Now I can flash my 5 speed ECM with the stock auto tune, recalibrate my speedo for my 315/75R16 tires, and enable the high idle feature in the ECM.

Chris, Where are you at with the CCD tool that you're working on? I have my old 99 ECM that has the WTS delay and wanted to know if it's fixable or not. I bought a 99 Cummins ECM from my friend but it seems as it came from a 5 speed truck, as it has a lopey cam at idle scenario now, and Mike said it's probably due to the anti-stall feature added to the manual trans ECM.

Isn't the WTS light a replaceable bulb in the cluster? If so, the bulb is most likely missing or burnt out.

How much do you guys sell a 99 Dodge Cummins auto ECM for?

I will let everyone know if something does happen to it. I've already bought a rectifier from this site, and now my AC voltage is at the recommended level now.

I printed out their warranty which says it's a lifetime warranty, so hopefully it holds up to their claim. Snowshoveler, Do you have any other good 99 Cummins auto ECM's?

I just installed a brand new PCM from flagship one that they programmed to the VIN of my 99 Dodge Cummins auto trans pickup. At the same time I installed a used 99 Cummins ECM that I got from a friend, but he couldn't remember if that pickup was a manual or auto trans pickup. There are no codes nor CEL coming up, but at idle when I put it into gear now, it sounds like the motor has a lopey cam in it. If I put it into park or neutral, it idles smooth, and it runs smooth down the road. Now my pickup will display the WTS as soon as the key is turned on, and I don't have to wait for the WTS light to come on each and every time to get the engine to fire up after it's already been warmed up. Are the manual and auto trans ECM's programmed differently due to the factory idle speed or fuel mapping? We reset the timbo apps to see if that would help, but it didn't change anything. Do the ECM's contain the VIN of the pickup like the PCM, or does it care about the VIN? Thanks for any help anyone can provide. Doug

I tried the 5 mm bolt for the ground point on the timing gear case, and it was too loose and wouldn't tighten up at all. I bought a 6 mm bolt with the same thread pitch and it fit perfectly. I know W-T's thread says "5mm" but just thought I'd save some folks another trip to the hardware store.

Mike, I just placed an order for your Denso diode. Thanks!

Mike said in his post above, that I couldn't install his diode kit and the high amp upgrade on my Denso alternator, he said it had to be one or the other. I just wanted clarification if that was correct or not.

I have the Denso alternator on my pickup. So I can't replace the diode with your kit and upgrade the amps on my alternator, it has to be one or the other?

That's a great price for the diode kit. I finally found the upgrade section. What's everyone's thoughts on installing the high amp upgrade on our alternators when we install the new diode kit?

I performed the ground and positive cable mod on my Cummins and it didn't make a difference in my new torque converter lock/unlock issue. My alternator is putting out too much noise and I want to replace it before it burns up my billet torque converter and anything else electronic. Can someone post the part number for the Denso diode kit, and the hi amp alternator upgrade? I was looking on their site for my 99 Cummins alternator, but then the one page said no kit and no price. Thanks!

Has anyone made a complete parts list to modify and install this awesome upgrade to the charging system? I'd like to only make one trip to the parts house since it's 40 miles round trip away from my town. Thanks, Doug

My Dad was disconnecting the power wire to the PD Box from his driver side battery and sticking the test light in between the battery and the PD box wire terminal end. How would he go about checking the relay sockets? Thanks for all your help!

He found out that he has an electrical draw of 2.8 Amps which is running his batteries down. He has disconnected the power wire from the driver side battery to the Power Distribution box, disconnected the Alternator charge wire from the PD box, disconnected the Alternator feed wire from the Alternator, removed the aftermarket stereo, removed every fuse and relay from the PD box, unplugged the trailer plugin receptacle, unplugged the ABS module, unplugged the PCM, and from inside the fuse box n the driver side of the dash, and his test light will still stay lit. He has unbolted the PD box from the left inner fender and turned it upside down and visibly checked for any wiring issues there, and he didn't notice anything amiss. He's at his wits end trying to figure this one out by himself. The only thing that he hasn't disconnected yet is the wire to the solenoid at the starter. Does anyone have any ideas as to where to check or what to do next? Thanks, Doug

It is more noticeable under light throttle like when driving up a hill, but I believe it's there under full throttle acceleration as well. The shudder does feel like a rapid vibration.

My trans is not cycling (hunting) between OD and 3rd at all. I just have a shudder in OD only and is only really felt when on light load throttle application. I don't have any tuners or chips on the pickup at the moment.

Update, my TV cable was about 1/2" out of adjustment. I re-adjusted the TV cable and it does shift more normally now. I took my pickup to my friend that owns a Transmission specialty shop, and he drove it and said that the torque converter shudder is because the previous owner left the TV cable out of whack too long and it has ruined the lockup on the torque converter. bigfish - don't you mean PCM as it controls the auto transmission, cruise control, voltage regulator, etc?

I guess the trans still shifts weird from 2nd to 3rd at any other time, and not just under heavy acceleration.