01_Cummins_4x4

I pulled into my shop right after driving 20 miles home from work and left my truck idling turned the heater on high and probed the heater core hoses again. Hot side was 194* and the return side was 182*.

Just as soon as I got home and parked my truck in my shop, I popped the hood and scanned both heater hoses headed towards the heater core. The inside hose which is going to the driver's side tube of heater core was at 178* and the outside hose going to the passenger side tube of the heater core was at 172*. I have a brand new heater core, brand new NAPA 190* t-stat, brand new water pump, and brand new radiator that is clean (new looking on the inside with no scale and new looking on the outside). New antifreeze was installed when replacing the head gasket and t-stat a couple months ago. I don't see how the heater core could be plugged up with all new components.

That's the video I watched when I installed their transposer, and recalibrated my actuator.

@Tractorman - How can I check the temperature blend door for full range of motion? I already calibrated the actuator per the heatertreater.net website when I installed their transposer. I'm not pulling the HVAC box out to check it, so do I need to cut a window in the HVAC box to verify that the blend door is moving all the way in both directions, and then fabricate a cover to fit over the window that I cut into the box? I have a problem with the AC on this truck as well, in that it won't blow cold for very long and it turns to lukewarm air even with a brand new evaporator core, vacuumed down properly with no leak detected and then 2# of R134 injected into the AC system. Thanks, Doug

I'm running a brand new NAPA 190* t-stat. I installed it at the same time I installed a new Fel-Pro head gasket and head studs. Running down the road my temperature gets to 190* when it's fully warmed up.

Right after I shutoff my pickup in my shop I used my infrared thermometer to see what my heater hoses are at. The hot side towards the engine was 177° and the return hose was at 142°. I didn't think to check them until after I shut it down.

I recalibrated it according the instructions that come with the heatertreater transposer. I did the same thing with my Dad's 02 Cummins after I put a heatertreater transposer in it.

In the two previous 99 Dodge Cummins 2500 4x4 pickups that I had, once I replaced the heater core, evaporator core, cleaned the hvac box, new 190* thermostat, new blower fan motor, both of those pickups would roast me out of the cab if I ran the heater on high for too long. On this 01 Cummins 4x4, it has a new radiator, new water pump, new heater and evaporator cores, cleaned the hvac box, new heatertreater transposer for the temp blend door, new blower motor rheostat, and new NAPA 190* thermostat. The only thing that I haven't changed is the heater blower motor on this pickup, but I have good airflow and my engine temp is running 190*, but this truck will not roast me out when it gets too cold outside. I just installed a geno's garage winter grille cover over the radiator, condenser, and intercooler, but that didn't make it do anything different and the truck still runs at 190*. Anyone have any other ideas to fix this issue? I know this is a very common issue in the 2nd gen dodge pickups and hopefully someone has some ideas as what to do next to fix it. Thanks! Doug

I'm trying to remember for sure, but I think the throttle cable could move a little bit last night when I pulled into my heated shop, and it was the throttle assembly that the APPS is connected to that was frozen stuck until it thawed out in a couple minutes in my shop. Is there any lubrication needed on it?

The throttle cable isn't binding at all - it's smooth like normal. Which lubricant is best to lubricate it?

I just thought it was super weird since I've never heard of it happening before, and I never had it happen to either of my 99 Cummins that I had before.

I forgot to change it obviously, but it's updated now. I just checked the throttle cable by pushing the throttle linkage to full throttle by hand and then worked the throttle cable back and forth. It feels smooth all the way back and forth without any binding at all. I wonder if having the APPS cover over it is just enough barrier from the extreme cold to keep it from getting direct ambient cold temperatures directly to the throttle linkage itself, cruise control cable end, and throttle cable end?

I have a 6 speed NV5600 trans

Have you ever had the throttle linkage where the APPS is connected to, ever get stuck (frozen) in -4° weather? Mine did last night at my friend's house. His house is 3 miles away from mine. I started out in 2nd gear and couldn't push the pedal down because the linkage was stuck at idle. But halfway between his house and home I was able to get it to move a little which brought me up to 2,300 rpm, so I shifted into 3rd gear and drove home at that rpm. When I got it in my shop within a couple minutes it thawed out and was normal again. I wonder if it did it because my pickup doesn't have the plastic APPS cover on it? I have a brand new Timbo APPS on it that I put on this last Spring. I set it up per the instructions. APPS cover, throttle linkage, or throttle cable needs lubrication? I don't see any frayed ends on the visible cable ends. This is my 3rd 2nd gen dodge cummins and I've never had this happen before.

I just fixed my driver's side rear door by tightening up the cam plate bolt on the cam plate that operates the upper and lower latch rods. Mine cam plate bolt was almost ready to fall out. Once I tightened it up to the point that the cam plate could still move but it was tighter, then I could open the rear door like normal again.

Unfortunately I don't have an exhaust brake, but wish I had one.

What is the typical high idle delay setting set at? Leave warm up mode set at 120 F? Does the Adrenaline need to be set on PL 00 for the high idle and warmup mode to work? Thanks!!!

Where at in the Quadzilla settings do I turn on the high idle functionality? It was 28 deg this morning and it would've helped it warm up faster.

If it doesn't have any blow by, has great oil pressure, and runs good, then I'd just add some conservative mods/upgrades to it and run it. I've heard of other Cummins owners with more miles on their engines than what you have on yours, and they are running all sorts of power mods/addons and haven't had any issues with them so far.

Do not get Monroe Reflex shocks!!! My pickup had them on it when I bought it in Dec 2020. The front shocks had a date of install of Feb 28, 2020 and both the front shocks were blown out when I bought the pickup. When ever I hit a major bump in the pavement, the front suspension would bottom out on the bump stops. I found a set of 4 Bilstein 5100's for my pickup for $143 shipped from a guy 200 miles away. I pulled the Reflex shocks off and when collapsing them by hand, they wouldn't even rebound at all.

I created a new profile and now I see the settings to modify :-) I have settings set like posted above and then 13, 19, 23, 27, 29. On the Boost Level fueling Canbus do I start at 95% for 0 psi and work up in % for each psi column, and then 125% is in the 10 psi column?

Do I have to create a new profile or load a V2 tune on it before finding the settings you mentioned?

I finally got my Quad installed this evening after work. Right now it's on its level 4 default profile. Like I stated before I have never messed with a Quadzilla tuner before, so this is all new to me compared to an Edge Juice with Attitude tuner. Where do I find these settings to modify that Threadzy posted; Load timing offset 2 Low timing reduction 5 timing scaling 50% Light throttle timing 2 light throttle load 30% Timing scale 15,19,23,27, 29 Mike starts his on 13 with a manual. It runs pretty good right out of the box, but I know custom tuning it will be a night and day difference. Also, my Fuel pressure, EGT, and turbo boost pressure are only on my A pillar gauges, and not monitored in the Quadzilla. Will that be a problem? Thanks, Doug

I followed the XOTIC installation instructions exactly and noticed there was no mention of a retorque needed on the head studs. So I emailed them and asked if the studs needed any retorque, and they said "if you follow the instructions exactly, there is no need for a retorque". I do have to install my marine valve cover on my engine once I get it painted and cleared, so I will most likely check them anyway while I have the valve cover off.

Since I already have ISSPRO Boost and EGT gauges and wiring, I ordered a new ISSPRO Fuel Pressure gauge and wiring kit from DAP, as well as, a Glowshift 3 gauge pillar pod to house them in. I just got my pickup up and running this last Saturday night at 11:05 PM after installing a new head gasket, new exhaust and intake manifold gaskets, NAPA t-stat, XOTIC head studs, new coolant, oil and filter. Yesterday I installed the Redhead steering box and the heater treater blend door transposer fix. As soon as the pillar pod shows up, I can remove the older Edge Juice w/Attitude and install the Quadzilla Adrenaline in it.