Dieselfuture

I'm not an expert on vp but from what I heard and read usually a seized rotor if you get fuel only out of one line, meaning new vp is needed. Sorry.

Man, vp looks more complicated than the engine itself. I think I'll have no problem rebuilding an engine and don't even feel like looking that hard at vp pictures giving me a headache already. Lol.

I know this thread is about hard wear, but I've been trying to remember on a stuck tune one trough ten what do all levels do? I thought one is max milage and only affects timing, and from there on I can't remember. Is there a better level for better mpg? Like 5 maybe? I know Mike uses 5x5 on his edge but it's not the same thing. Anyone? Maybe we can start a new thread about best levels for whatever use.

I don't know much about internals of vp, but it makes me think your rotor inside vp or something is getting stuck when you put it in nutral and cutting of fuel supply internally, and if you pull it with another truck and get it in gear you force it to turn again and it runs.

Just curious, have you tried unscrewing your niddel vale out a few turns when you get low on fuel and stop hard or take off hard? My original straw was pretty much touching bottom of fuel tank maybe 1/4 to3/8 gap tops and I would suck in air at 3rd to 1/4 of tank if i stop fast.

Go to. http://m.bluechipdiesel.com/site/vp44_diagnostics.html?imz_s=slma1mpbnefkqt78trndqs0pk7. You'll be a lot smarter by the time you get done reading this.

I just did my injectors again and what I did is: put injectors in, torque hold downs to 30 in/lb, put in tubes, losend hold downs, taped with back side of plastic screwdriver on tubes to straighten injectors very lightly, torqued injector hold downs back to 30in/lb, put lines on and snugged them just a little on injector side maybe 30in/lb, then torqued injectors to 90in/lb, then lines to about 30 ft/lb, then snugged lines at vp, then loosened 1,3,4,5 at injectors to bleed air, when got fuel out of them tightened lines back to about 30ft/lb and few more cranks it fired up. Let it run for few min. Shut it off and checked for leaks, all lines were just damp, so let it go for a few days and its all dry now with no leaks. I'm leaving it alone.

Bringing this thread back to life as I don't like how some of them end with no solution. Put reman 60hp injectors from DAP and it seems that it took care of problem. After 4 years of this I hope it is finally fixed. I will be pulling a lot more soon and will update this in definite. Thank you all for your help!

I read another post here that you mentioned you get best mpg when you're edge is on level 5 driving about 55-60 mph. Not sure how much you know about qwadzilla but supposedly on level 1 they get best mpg, now i have 2.2ohm resistor and 60hp injectors, I know speed is the killer for mpg, should I keep it on level 1 or 5 ? Maybe someone else knows more that can jump in. I fought on qwad level 1 was all timing,2 can't remember, 3 I think timing and fuel and level 5 it will be messing with pump stretch and timing and not sure what else.

I thought these engines were supposed to be one of the best, why so many problems with heads? Is there a way to tell if head is going bad without pulling it off? Aside from oil in coolant what else can you do to find out, and what can a guy do to prevent this from happening? Is this only if you're trying to get every last bit of power out of it? Or does it just happen with time.

Ok, I've posted this under different thread but just so it stays under truck misfire here it is again. I got 60hp injectors from DAP and got to tow last night, didn't tow very far and the highway I took was a little bumpy. But I believe it is fixed, it did have a little jerking going on but I think it was cracks in the road I was on. And I played with qwadzila and tried different levels that usually made it miss worse, it ran fine this time. Plus I had a volt meter on apps and there was no skip in volts it was smoove. There is only one other thing I did that might be part of it, my IAT sensor that I've been wanting to put 2.2ohm resistor in for a while to put it at 143f. Finally I stopped by RadioShack and got a PAC of 5 for $1.50, 1/4 watt, as soon as I plugged it in truck ran a slightly different tone, I'm going to ran a relay with 87 and 87a so I can toggle between iat sensor and resistor for cold starts and to see if that makes a difference in making a miss under load come back. Also I put a clear hose for fuel line before vp to see if I was sucking in air, and had it on my windshield, no air was present under any load on the motor. So if my problem is gone, then by cleaning injectors it doesn't really do much unless you had some major problems before, then it might help, but don't quote me on this as I'm not 100% sure if new injectors took care of it, I will post more after towing under all conditions. Also I think my old injectors had to have bigger nozzles because I was expecting to gain power but I think I lost a little,and turbo takes a bit longer to spool. but I don't think I'm going to waste any money on checking old ones out, especially if my miss is gone.

Is this the first time you're doing this on your truck? How many miles you got on it now, just trying to see how often this needs to be done. What if a guy changed fluid more friqwent would that prolong life of these seals? Just wondering.

That's why I just got a set from DAP, they use old bodies with new nozzles and pop and flow test them. I checked numbers on the ones i just got,+60hp over stock and they are stock 235hp bodies 7 hole. The ones I just took out of my truck last week were 8hole and part # matched ho 245, plus Mitch at DAP pretty well convinced me that ones I had were stock and the only thing they were good for is their bodies as core. So for 360 after core return and free fast shipping I'm happy, now I just hope my miss goes away when I tow.

No I didn't, I figured by the time I find someone that can do it and spend $100 or so I was money ahead just to get a new set, at least I know what they are now. Hope they last and I don't have to worry about them for a long time, as I only put about 5k on it a year.

Everyone thank you for quick response with good points. It was exhaust break hooked backwards, and that explains all the issues I had. It wouldn't shut off because egts were to high with it closed. I did recalibrate apps just in case. Starts up great runs even better, took it for a short drive seems that it doesn't rattle as much like valves are out of adjustment, as soon as I get a chance I will tow something and see if random miss under load is gone. P.s. it doesn't seem to be any more powerful but not sure yet. It was hard to tell if holes were any bigger in nozzles, my old ones had 8 and these have 7. But at least I know what's in there now.

I have qwadzila, already triple checked all connections, the only thing that I'm thinking of now is I might of put 2 vacuum lines on backwards for my bd exhoust break and it might be on all the time, that would explain hissing and bad response but not sure why it would not shut off. I will check it all out again tomorrow and update this. I hope it's not injectors and all it is is my stupidity.

Just got new 60hp DAP injectors and got them installed, blead the lines and fired it up. Right of the batt truck ran like crap, poor throttle response and some hissing sound from exhoust. Then I went to turn it off and it won't turn off, took the key out of ignition and it ran until I taped accelerator pedal, and then it shut off. Never had this happen before and not sure what causes this bad injectors or something else. Ran great before the swap. Did everything exact same way that I did last week when I cleaned my original injectors that I thought were 100hp until I pled them out and relized that they were stock, so I decided to go with 60hp for better mpg and power, and now I got this. Any help is apprisiated.

I hope you feel better, health is your best wealth, I was told that long time ago by a wise man(my grandpa). Everything else is second. Except family.

Ok another update, just got to tow with it and its doing same thing. Misses right at 19-2000 rpm. Got to say after un pinching return from injectors and vp it got a bit weaker. So I think I got one of them vps that is junk and not throwing any codes. I also cleaned injectors and adjusted valves, runs a bit smother but didn't help the missing issue. I'm leaning towards bad vp as I checked all sensors for voltage changes when I drive it. I'm guessing with a pitched return line my vp never got cooled off and fried electronics on top of it, but if that's the case it takes a while to kill one due to no return for cooling and lubrication, and if I didn't do my draw straw5 mod I'd never find out, and maybe change vp and kill it again. I guess it's a good idea to see once in a while if your return line is doing what it's supposed to. To mountaindan I would still love to hear from you if changing injectors fixed your problems.

So what do these 50hp injectors called? And what brand are better ones? Is 75hp going to ruin my mpg?

I think I want to follow your leads too . Just found out that my injectors are stock HO 245hp and the guy that I got the truck from said they were 100hp, so i don't even know how powerful these trucks can be, and that this whole time i thought I had 100hp injectors. But I did had a pinched return line to module from vp and injectors, and I do believe I lost some power by fixing it. Can't wait now to save money and get better ones, but I don't want to lose MPG but rather improve it. So what do you think I should go with? I heard that HO motors have different VP's that has more pressure but mot as much on top end like SO. But I'm still waiting to find out if my VP is bad or not, and if I change it out I'm thinking to go with SO pump. Would RV275 or 50HP work good with both pumps? And how much difference is in RV275 vs 50 HP or are they same thing? Thanks for all the help!

So do you do what Mike does and torque injector lines down first then re torque hold downs? or you just do the step you wrote above and then put on lines?

So what if I just got done putting in new VP do i need to take valve cover off and loosen hold downs? or is it just the first time after removing and installing injectors? Will my copper washers sit back up or will they leak if i loosen hold downs and torque them back down? Do you think I should take valve cover off now and redo the procedure or should i leave it alone now that I'm down to one line that leaks a bit? Plus how is this helping problem when the leak is not on the inside, where tube meets injector but on the outside, where injector line meets the tube? Just thinking out loud.

I think filtering oil is as important as weight, plus I wouldn't use newer oils in older engines, they don't have as much zddp and other good things in them because it will plug emission crap on newer trucks. I think that's how it is, read it somewhere before.

Buy not being able to return fuel from air dog without restriction you will increase pressure to vp, and you'll have swings in pressure 5-6psi maybe. I did. What I ended up doing is drilling out supply in module to put in 1/2" jic fitting to return fuel, it's 3/8 Id but so is the fitting on draw straw. But lines are 1/2 as soon as I did this my pressure went back to 15-16 and had to put shim for spring and ball back in. Where is your pressure now, try unhooking it from module and take fitting of that 1/2 line and return it in to bucket without any restriction. See if your pressure changes if it does then you know you're restricting it, and will have pressure swings. Just my 2cents.