KATOOM

Good to know. Maybe I'll stop by the hardware store on the way home.

Joe, if it hard starts every time you drive then shut down for a bit and attempt to re-start, then do exactly what I suggested by pouring a gallon of cool water directly on top of the VP "prior" to re-starting and see if it then starts up like normal. And sorry but if it is the electronics in the FPCM then yes, it will eventually fail on you at any time, any place.....just like turning the key off. There doesn't have to be any codes when that happens either, or you may see the 1693 companion code. Am I suggesting to run out and buy a VP?.....No, but I am telling you to be aware of whats going on. How do I know this?.....well one day when I was driving down the road, my truck just simply shut off in the middle of the street. Unfortunately I also had a trailer connected. Older original VP's can not only fail mechanically from lack of fuel but also electronically. Now as to the reason why this happens, sadly but the lead free solder is still used. (Thank you environmentalists) So its common to get a new computer but important to be assured that you are indeed getting a brand new computer along with the re-manufactured VP since there has been rumor of some vendors reusing old "working" computers. But knowing this issue, I'm sure that doesn't happen anymore. And also, because heat is the reason the solder falls apart, its even more important to make sure the VP has a constant over supply of fuel by running at least 14-16 psi of fuel pressure ALL THE TIME.

The proper procedure for pulling codes on 2000 and newer 2nd gen trucks is simply to, from the OFF position, cycle the ignition key from OFF to ON three times stopping in the ON position. The odometer will indicate any codes found and stop with a p-done or -----. --- Update to the previous post... Sorry I didn't catch where you said that it starts fine after sitting for long periods of time and this problem only arises after you've been driving and the engine is hot. If thats the case then I no longer think its a fuel leak but since you're still running the factory VP, I will say that it clearly sounds like your FPCM (the computer on top of the VP) is going bad. Why this happens is because Bosch used lead free solder on the electrical connections in that computer. After time (what everyone refers to as "heat cycles") what happens is when you shut the engine off for longer than about 15-20 minutes, the 200* engine heat soaks the VP computer that should be no hotter than about 150*-160* which then causes the lead free solder to deteriorate and fall apart. That deterioration eventually starts causing poor connections within the computer when the computer heats up during those heat cycles. Then you start experiencing hard hot starts, white smoke after it eventually starts, and potentially dead pedal while driving. One way to tell if this is the problem is to carry a gallon of cool water around with you and when you experience the hard start, open the hood and pour the gallon of water directly on the top of the VP to cool the computer. If it starts fine then there ya go. This is more an inconvenience than anything but you should know that the computer is letting you know that it is ready to fail and when it fails, the engine can just stop running no matter when or where you are.

Before you go tearing anything apart, you need to know a few things first. Like if you have the CAD front axle or not. The CAD unit is obvious to identify by the large collar looking section which would be on the passenger side of the front axle housing, with a couple vacuum hoses and a couple electrical lines coming off of it. Its rare for '02 trucks to have the CAD but if you have this then I'd start with jacking the front axle off the ground and checking the front wheel bearings for excessive play which may indicate a bad front bearing.If you do NOT have the CAD front axle whereby your front axle housing looks completely normal then your 4wd system is full time which means the front driveshaft spins all the time. This also means that if there was anything wrong in the TC then you would certainly hear it make strange noises all the time since the front driveshaft is spinning the TC output shaft all the time. This by no means is me saying not to pull the TC fill plug either and check to see if any of the TC lube has escaped without notice or that the lube doesn't look murky or have metal in it.If the TC lube looks fine then the chances of anything being wrong in there is slim to none. At that point, I'd start looking at the front driveshaft. The non-CAD front driveshafts are notorious for wearing out u-joints and the double cardan unit too. As mentioned by Rogan, when those go bad then you can experience noises and vibrations. An indication would be a slight fast paced harmonic vibration you may feel under the truck as you drive down the road.

Sounds like a fuel leak, and leak thats getting worse. Does it hard start only after its been sitting for a little while or maybe overnight? Or does it hard start every time? If it only starts after sitting then, if you can, park the truck overnight with the nose of the truck pointing downward, like it would sitting on a good downhill grade street. This will keep the fuel in the fuel lines and not drain back to the fuel tank, which if the truck starts fine will indicate a leak in the fuel system. The common places to look for a leak is ANY fuel line fitting but the most common places to leak is the banjo bolt on the back of the head and the T fitting just below it. If you cant find an obvious leak then you may need to use baby powder.

I understand the Frantz is a secondary filter but there are primary TP oil filters. Not sure how many are still available but they do exist.

I'm going to add to this thread for my own curiosity..... I removed my puke bottle years before I ever heard about Mikes PVC over the engine solution. Back then all anyone did was add a couple feet of 3/4" hose to the original vent line and let it dangle in front of the engine. I thought that wasn't proper solution so I added enough 3/4" hose to run down under the engine, along the frame, and stop just before the fuel tank, making sure there was no droops or sags which could allow oil puddling in the hose. This has been working great for years with a rare drop of oil from the hose end. In saying all this, I have always been leery of descending down any steep grades in 4wd for reason that if the ISB was pointed downward more than somewhere around 35*-40* then the oil would collect in the front of the engine and the timing gears would shove it out the vent hose quickly expelling most of your engine oil. Well not that I planned on many hardcore 4wd traversing but knowing this still remains in the back of my mind while out in the woods.So finding Mikes PVC idea, the thought process was that upon any oil pushing out the vent, gravity working against it, the oil would have to climb up and out the vent tube and go over the engine before any escaped. And then if any oil did happen to make it that far, when the driving angle leveled back out then the oil would simply drain back into the engine. Sounds logical but I have to say that I'm just not comfortable with the oil even making its way out the vent in the first place. I'd rather have a way to completely plug the timing case vent and have the engine vent somewhere else, like on the valve cover. Yes, I know there has been guys who've done this or even just added another vent on the valve cover but without sounding like I'm criticizing anyone's work, I have yet to see it done and not look nice, or better, stock.Thats not to say your PVC idea isn't a good one either Mike but just that I'm one of those particular people who questions everything.

Is your Jake connected to the ECM pin 20 or do you have the microswitch? Sometimes the APPS can cause the issues your describing so you might want to try resetting it. And as Moparman was indicating, the ISB can react negatively to any loss in proper voltage/amperage in the electrical system. For that reason weak batteries or one bad battery and one good battery can cause more problems then most think. And if you live where corrosion is an issue then considering all electrical connections is a must.

TP oil filters were more popular years ago and TP was not as cheaply made then too. Personally I wouldn't risk my $10k engine saving a few bucks over a quality oil filter.

Ya know.....I think that would pose a pretty interesting argument in a legal battle of wits given that the ISB came from the factory with ZERO emissions components. So in saying that, how could doing much of anything be construed as altering a smog system device? This is the reason for most of the outcry in CA regarding the '98 to current model diesel smog law which by all tense in purpose, forces my to pay $50 every couple years for a revenue supplying law where my year truck/model was never required to conform too from the day it rolled off the assembly line. Very interesting since by taking that approach, my truck should be smog exempt.....as are all the older vehicles in CA which were built without smog emission components. So which brings me back to the topic as to why adding a box which alters the timing/fueling mapping is considered fooling the VP? Technically that would be "fooling" the ECM and not the VP. And lets take that a little further and ask why would my Edge EZ be viewed as altering a smog device when I can achieve better fuel mileage with the EZ than without?.....and gain an additional 60 HP? Which keeps me asking even more questions as to why injectors aren't considered as "fooling" anything or turning the star on the P-pump? Ah heck, I'm just rambling now.

flagmanruss, I'm not sure what you mean by saying add-ons to "fool" the VP. How are we fooling the VP? Do we "need" a complete redesign? Adding up all the upgrades the VP has had over the past 10 years, I'd say that's pretty close to a complete redesign. Do we not understand why the VP was designed? I think we do.....but I'm also sure that the animosity from the thousands of people whom had to replace their VP will try to say otherwise. Yes, the VP was a poor excuse for a reliable injection pump when it was first mounted to the Cummins but no one can ignore the fact that it was also combined with a poor excuse for a fuel pump/system which made it even worse. So in saying that, guys with replacement VP's who also run an aftermarket fuel pump tend to not have issues other than the computer which unfortunately still contain lead free solder. If there's anything that will make the VP a more reliable injection pump would be lead in the solder. But that's an argument for the environmentalists.

I also second a possible plugged vent. If you have the vent hose extended, which I'm sure you do, maybe a drooped section puddled oil.

Maybe.....maybe not. Sure the new trucks are "new" and smell nice, and "new" always makes us feel warm and fuzzy inside. "New" must do something to us psychologically otherwise there has to be some logical reason why people buy all those horribly ugly vehicles from dealers. But think of it this way, how many of us would rather pay $28k for a truck that's basically brand new for $10k-$15 less than sticker..... is infinitely modifiable with tons of available tried and true aftermarket products..... has an impressive reliability reputation where any potential issues are already known..... and better yet with today's fuel costs, a truck that gets unheard of fuel mileage when compared to all other HD trucks .....OR..... would you rather have a "new" truck that gets half the fuel mileage..... is forever under the thumb of socialized environmentalism propaganda emissions that will only get worse..... and costs you about $20k more to drive away plus higher insurance? Hmmm..... Honestly, I think I may have to step back and think about what decision I'd choose.

The OEM lift pump connects directly to the ECM plug right where the lift pump is mounted to the frame. The ECM fully controls and fully powers the OEM lift pump. When you replace the OEM lift pump with a higher volume / higher pressure fuel pump, the ECM should connect (as some are) in a way that the ECM plug is connected to a new wire harness relay whereby the ECM is telling the relay when to allow power to the fuel pump but the fuel pump is no longer powered from the ECM but powered by a separate 12v source. I think thats what you were asking.

Did you ever try bumping the starter to prime the system? The fuel pump is supposed to run for approximately 25 seconds at full power when bumping the starter but will only run for about 2 seconds when simply turning the key to ON. And yes, when cranking the engine, the ECM supplies alternating current to the fuel pump to reduce the fuel pressure.

Oh.....you didn't mention that you had the Raptor "FRRP". That makes a difference. Yes, those tie into the ECM just as the OEM lift pump does.

I'm not sure what you mean because I purchased my Raptor directly from Pureflow a couple years ago and the wiring harness they sent me was exactly as Mike stated. The ECM only tells the Raptor when to pump but the Raptor gets its power directly from a 12v source. Why would yours be any different?

I dont know if there's a "proper" method to prime and really if the pump is working and there is no air leaks in the lines from the tank to the pump then it should self prime. The only possible connector I can think of is the quick connect fitting on top of the fuel tank module. Pureflow will give you this connector to tie into the OEM fuel module but if the module side is damaged upon disconnecting the lines or if the o-ring in the connector is damaged then you will never be able to prime the system since the pump will be sucking air. But if you have a solid sure way to test with other fittings and a hose to a bucket of fuel then I'm not sure what to tell you.

I have to admit its very nice. Its interesting to see what some trucks interior differences are too. Like the front cup holder. I never knew that was an option, but maybe its only available on the auto's since the manual shifter would be in the way. And there's no cubbyhole with heated seat buttons. I'd like to know the real story behind the ultra low mileage too since being in Las Vegas, it must have spent its entire life indoors otherwise it should look like a 100 year old lady in a bikini on the beach.

Without a doubt, that's not a clean turbo. After years of reading Mikes posts, I think I'm as anally retentive as he is and I'd be the kinda person who would remove the turbo to clean it too but.....in saying that, it wont hurt anything if you opt not to clean it.

How did you check the inlet? Did you hook it up to something? Are you connected to the fuel tank module through the OEM quick connect fitting?

If your VP is original OEM then its likely that it is the VP and you should almost just be happy that the OEM VP lasted this long. The dead pedal could be the APPS or it could also be the FPCM computer on the VP. If the VP is an OEM model then I'm sure it has its fair share of hot cycles which can cause the computer to do things like what you're describing. There are lots of upgrades the VP has had done over the past decade and one of those being the brass timing piston sleeve was changed to steel. Running the fuel pressure you currently are, I'm betting that your new VP will last for the life of the truck. Just be sure that where you get your VP can guarantee that the VP has all the most current upgrade and comes with a brand new computer.

Cant say why it would have just stopped working.....but.....you're positive that you have fuel in the tank? Running out of fuel and not knowing it is more common than not. And the new pump wouldn't be spinning backwards either since its not the pump wires which are known to be reversed but the connector on the wire loom going to the pump. So if the old pump spun in the correct direction then the new pump will to.

Good points ISX. I'm surprised it actually took as long as it did for variable turbos to make it in production. Seems like a logical idea. And not disagreeing with you but.....the turbo is not as much of an asset as it "IS" the engine. Supercharging an engine increases the volumetric efficiency from under 100% to a minimum of 100%, which means that the 5.9l engine volumetric displacement increases substantially while under boost. As for lag, ideally superchargers would be best for instant throttle response but since blowers take HP to make HP, you dont see them as often. But turbos are the king of making power out of what the engine throws away, and you cant beat that. And you're right about real HP and seat of the pants feel but depending on who's in the seat, that perspective will vary where the HP will not.

I'm not going to link any dyno sheets Mike but in reality the 2ng gen 24v makes an incredible flat torque curve which can run almost all the way to about 2600-2700 before falling off, with the smallest peak being about 2200 RPM. Almost rivaling an electric motor. The HP slight uphill curve is also impressive, mimicking a high school algebra equation looking for the proof. Point being is that these motors put out HP and torque like no other, which is why their a great towing motor. So in proving your point, as well as mine, for an engine that makes almost the same torque during idle as it does cruising down the road.....its not so much the RPM's but aerodynamics and engine load which affect fuel mileage. Guys who want to go fast (especially towing) are asking a lot for the engine to shove their large object down the highway. OK.....I'm done now.