mulcher812

I was recently fighting this issue with a buddy and we found that the TV linkage was not set correctly. To check if yours is correct get under the truck and have someone put there foot to the floor on the skinny pedal. If it doesn't bottom out the TV linkage at WOT then it needs to be adjusted. To adjust it there is a white clip on the APS sensor end that will allow the cable to be adjusted in or out. Basically the setting should bearly bottom out or almost bottom out the TV cable. When you go to pull the clip off the cable make sure the person tremoves the skinny oedal from the floorboard first.

dave has this one correct. I just did the "T" and all three gromits in my truck. The gromits are $11 from Dodge.

With just using head bolts I agree with Tfaro I wouldn't worry about it.

Did you use head bolts or head studs? Either would be fine to go in and at least check all of them. If you used ARP head studs they say you do not need to retorque them but I did mine at about 3k just to make sure.

I am in the same boat with Nick any pics of the unit or connections would help out a bunch.

Ok ok.... I did it. No not really but that does suck. I'll look in the shop tomorrow and see if I still have a compressor wheel for an hx35. If I can find it I'll pm you.

That's pretty...

Them dam TDI VW's are to beat on fuel milage....

Them dam TDI VW's are to beat on fuel milage....

I agree with Mike my Edge comp by itself is a great chip. I also run the Smarty and it's a great programmer. They are very different and perform very differently on my truck. When I was running the Smarty on my stock setup it was pretty amazing and with your emissions standards that may be the better way to go for you.

That's a coolant bye pass that goes on the backside of the block. I thought that was only an issue with the 3rd gen trucks...

Yeah it was easy to keep the EGT's in check just make sure your not in overdrive and control the skinny pedal. I just read your sig and noticed that you have an Aurora 3K are you looking at replacing it? As for setting when towing Smarty = lvl 6 Edge Comp = 4x3 or 5x1

I ran mine for about 2yrs before starting the upgrade process to break the 500hp mark. My truck with 75hp sticks edge comp and Smarty made 470hp 1030tq with the HE351. It's a great turbo if you want more power with out breading the bank.

Well I got the pump hot wired and still had the same miss. So it just so happens that Pacific fuel injection (Mid-West Diesel) here in Portland has VP's on the shelf for $1050 exchanged. While I was at it I ordered a set of DDP 125's .

Ok so i have to ask what did you use to record the way your truck sounded before the teardown? I have an issue with a miss and originally thought that it was an ECM issue but after playing around with a DRBIII I dought its an ECM issue. So it's either injectors or VP...

I agree more power is great but without some kind of chip (edge comp) or programmer (smarty) going to big can cause other problems and head aches. If you go over 40psi of boost without head studs you run the risk of blowing the head gasket. HX35'S can only handle 32-35 psi of boost. 100hp+ sticks can cook an HX35 on the egt side. So what have you done to your truck?

I have run all kinds of different injectors over the past few years. DAP, Industrial injection, Vulcan and the ones I'm running now Dynomite diesel performance I think are the best. All of the injectors I've run were either 7x.0095 or 7x.010 (125 -150 hp). The DDP's I'm running now are 7x.095 (125hp) they produced 503hp and 1180tq on the dyno. Here is a link to Dynomite Diesel http://www.dynomitediesel.com/.

Imbodie what year truck do you have? Have you done the crank position sensor?

So does the test work for early second gens as well as the late second gens? I know some had CKP and some didnt.

It may not run the greatest but it sure looks pretty...

Well I have been able to get a hold of one of the local dealers and a new ECM from them is $800 plus they have to program it with it in the vehicle. The programming is $100. I have several friends that have DRB3's and I have not been able to set the vin info with it there for its become a dealer only product for me.

Well Tyler after listening to the video and trying a few things I'm starting to wonder if we are having the same issue. I have found a new ECM from a local Dodge dealer for $750 flashed for my truck. I will be putting that in next week and I'll update you with how things turn out.

Fuel pressure is 18 at idle and 16 at wot. VP has about 120k on it. I used a modis and shut off each cylinder and it changes but once returned to operating it doesn't fix the rough idle.

Ok so I somehow managed to clear the code but the rpm's are still surging and the truck isn't feeling correct.

Thanks Mike thats where I started with that info and returned everything to stock from the smarty but it was still there. I'm going to try and do a battery disconnect and reset to see if this changes anything.