adamey1000

Thanks for the responses. I think I am going to pass on them. I like the look, but there are far too many downsides. I wouldn’t mind the lift, but steering box damage and rubbing on control arms are a deal breaker. I will just buy a new set of tires for my 16’s and be happy! I have American Racing outlaw II’s on it, and they look good, just had something shiny catch my eye at a good price. With 3.55 gears, I think I was asking for trouble anyway.

I apologize if this has been answered before, but I couldn’t find it, and I have to make a quick descision. I have an opportunity to buy a set of 17” wheels from a 2003. They have 315-70-17 BFG KO2’s on them. I am stock ride height. Any issues with rubbing or handling? I know they will be heavier, and will mess with final drive ratio. As far as fit, is there anything I am missing? Not sure if there were offset differences.

I will switch and see if that is the case

Does that profile support the average mpg gauge? I know that it did not when it was first released. Would I need to reflash the quad box to use it in that profile?

Yes I am using the V2 Quadzilla Only version 3.94

Turbo cool down set, works as designed. The power level stays the same. Always returns to previous power level set after warm up temp is reached. My settings on offset, de-fuel, warm-up, etc. are remembered as well, but I suspect they are stored in the app not in the quad.

Both leads are hooked up. Solid red lead is connected to the stud on the main fuse panel, red and white to the cab fuse #9. Changed the fuse for good measure, but no luck. I would imagine that the red and white wire is to signal the quad that the key is on. It is basically functioning as a relay, is it not? So if it were not getting key on signals, the quad would never switch on. Box power is coming from the battery lead, which should also be the power source for memory. So in theory, if the box is powering on, there should be no problem with the power leads. Is my understanding correct?

Well I have tried the buttons set in every combination that I can think of. I cannot keep it from resetting every time the truck starts.

I think we just got an up-skirt on @Mopar1973Man

Someone should plumb in the oil temp probe from their Quadzilla and get some temps. Doesn’t seem like it would be too hard to do that, or a manual temp gauge and really see what it is doing. @KATOOM, are you measuring with a temp gun?

That’ll do it! That would explain the intermittent communication with the PCM. I’m glad you found it. You will have to solder fill that connector like you would a battery terminal I would imagine. But do some reading on here and other sources on that. I’ll do some digging for the source material, but solder joints done incorrectly can wind up with serious corrosion issues. It’s been a minute since I was searching that though.

I am new to all of this too, so take my opinion with a grain of salt. It looks to me like either the graphing is out of wack, or something funny is going on with the canbus fueling. I would think that it would pretty closely mirror throttle position to a certain degree.

I know that you are trying not to just throw parts at this issue, but with what you were describing and the fact that the WTS and other lights are staying on with the key removed, I would replace the ignition switch. It is only about a 15 minute job, and if I remember correctly it was under $50, but it was over a year ago, so I could be a few dollars off. At least that way you have eliminated one potential source of issues.

That makes sense. It’ll be a week or so before I get back home to try, but I’ll update you guys as soon as I try it. I assumed that the on switch actually was turning the offset on.

Anyone have any ideas? I would love for this feature to work well, but right now it’s not useful if it resets every time.

i run the American Racing Outlaw II's in a 16"x8". they are a zero offset with stock sized 265 tires. they do sling a little bit of mud and stuff on the truck but not bad. Ill post up a picture in a few. If you have a specific question, let me know. I just went to look at the invoice from when i bought those wheels to give you more information on the set-up, but apparently Tire Rack doesn't sell that wheel in that size or bolt spacing anymore. Paid $440 in sept. of 2015 for just the wheels. I was hoping to find the shipping weight since i bought them as a wheel/tire combo mounted and balanced, but it is not on the invoice that i have.

I did the oversized contacts and the plunger, but it still spun slow. I moved those over to the new starter before I installed it.

I had a similar hard start issue. mine was a weak starter. i replaced all of the battery cables for good measure, but probably not 100% necessary. You will be amazed at how slow your starter is turning right now. You wont notice the difference until you get a new one on there. And don't let the parts store kid tell you your starter is fine because it engages and spins. its just spinning too slow.

I have now re-flashed the box, checked all of my wiring, and reloaded the vehicle profile. Every time i shut the struck off it resets the average mpg and the gallon trip. This morning after the gallon trip got up to around .2 gallons used, i pulled over and shut the truck off with the app running. as soon as i restarted the truck, every sensor was consistent with pre-shut down with the exception of the mpg and gallon trip. They reset to 0. power level, coolant temp, and everything else was still reading good, but non of those require any memory to read accurately. mpg offset is turned on and set at 155%, eco reset is turned off. what am i missing?

I was 7250lbs across the scale with a half tank and the toolbox.

Ouch! I guess the 5 gallon bucket would solve any future supply issues for awhile. @Mopar1973Man, do you subscribe to the 6qts school of thought? i will be filling from the top of the transmission through the shift tower.

I posted this question in an older thread, but apparently no one is looking at those old treads anymore. I think that it is time for a fluid change in my transmission. I have searched all over the place for Valvoline 50 SAE gear oil, and keep coming up empty. Does anyone have a source for the proper fluid for this transmission? i am concerned that the lube shop that did the last fluid change did not use the correct fluid, and that may be contributing to my hard slightly notchy shifts. This may be a stupid question, but is the Valvoline 50 SAE motor oil the same oil? I do not think that it would have the correct additives, but I am not positive. Any help or links would be greatly appreciated.

sorry for the delayed response, work has been crazy! offset and AVG reset are both turned on. I just re-flashed the box a few minutes ago, so i will report any changes. it did take several tries before the flash software recognized the box was connected, so hopefully that is not a problem. Data logs have been pretty much useless, so i have not been saving them.

I would say that it was not worth it. It won’t change your peak HP and TQ any. All you would be doing is risking damage to the valve train. If you are drag racing and need the extra rpm, you might have to weigh the risk, but for street driving, I wouldn’t. Do you have stock valve springs? You could be floating valves around 3250. That would account for the dramatic loss of power.

I have looked at my connections, and cant find anything loose. It has been remembering my last power level, but not storing the mileage information. I have been leaving the level on different settings when i shut down to check that it remembers. The mpg seems to be pretty good, but since it has been resetting, i cant get a long term average or check the gallon trip. I will look all the connections over again tonight. I have my power wire connected to the hot leg of the fuse block under the hood, rather than the battery. any reason that could be an issue?