adamey1000

Here is a data log from my drive home from work today. I am confident that my offset is wrong. I would love to be averaging 37mpg! I need some miles on the tank before I check the offset though. I just filled up this morning, so it shouldn’t be too long. iquad-2018-07-13-03.07.30.csv

To import, I exported to an email. Opened with notepad, changed the file name at the end to “Quadzilla Only”. Saved, emailed back to myself, hold on the attached file and clicked copy to iQuad. This is all from an iPhone, so I know it won’t be exactly the same for you Mike. But the rename part would be the same.

I have successfully flashed the box. @Me78569 the instructions in your flash thread are great! Made flashing the box super easy. I exported the tune and renamed in notepad. Everything is working great. I am pretty stoked about the new gauge. I have only had time to spin around the block with it, but it appears to be working correctly. I suspect that my offset is wrong, so I will be calibrating per the instructions above. @Quadzilla Power, would data logs of driving with the gauge be helpful in development? I would be happy to provide whatever I can to help refine.

Thank you for putting this together! I assume that this is a flash for the box? This will be the first time that I have flashed the box itself. I will do it tomorrow while I am at work.

I know that this is an old thread, but I am hoping for some help. I have been to every parts house and farm supply store around, and I cannot find an SAE 50 in any brand. I suppose that I’ll be placing an order online. If anyone has a link to the proper fluid, I would greatly appreciate it. I want to make sure that I am getting the right stuff.

Is there any plan to add an average mpg gauge on the iQuad? I’m not a computer programmer so I have no idea if it is as easy as I think it is, but it seems that a running average of the eco would be pretty simple. When using the 95.7” tire size, the iQuad matches my speedo. I will be downloading a speedo app to double check my truck, but since everything is stock in that regard it “should” be accurate. Any suggestion on a good speedo app?

Are you using the true tire circumference for the tire size? Just curious if you are having to offset a little on the size like you had to with the Smarty. My tires are 265/75/16’s which should make my tire size 99.27”

With 7x.0085 injectors, what would an appropriate offset be? The default seems to be 90%, but I currently have it turned off. If the eco reading is an instantaneous mpg, then with my offset turned off, it must be way off! Mine reads in the 30-40 range most of the time unless I am hammering on it, and then it’ll drop down to around 12. That is the source of my confusion.

Can someone educate me on the fuel economy monitoring capabilities of the Quadzilla? I think that the gallon/trip is pretty self explanatory, but I don’t understand what the eco gauge is telling me. My truck did not have a mpg display originally, so I have always hand calculated just for curiosity. I have never recorded or tracked mileage other than a quick check at the filling station. I am curious about these features, as I am going to start playing with tunes and see how effecient I can make this monster. How accurate is the gallon/trip function? Can I rely on that data? It seems like it would be much more reliable and precise than the “pump until it clicks” meathod. What exactly is the eco gauge monitoring, and what does it tell us about fuel economy? any advice on parameters to start with on building my own economy tune?

I have moved the timing slider up, and changed the boost scaling. Just to be clear, "You will probably want to reduce the full 2 degrees at the high throttle low boost in order to help your turbo spool a little faster thereby getting you out of the "smoke zone" a little faster." This would be about the low PSI timing reduct, correct? in which case no further action is required, since that is already what I have. Sorry if this is an obvious question, but I am learning! I really appreciate the feedback, and I will start messing with the canbus fueling to see what I can do. I know that the smoke vs low boost power is going to be a trade off, but I want to see how far I can go with clean power. Blowing smoke was fun with the smarty for about the first 15 minutes, and then it became an annoyance. So I will sacrifice some of the off idle power for a cleaner burning set-up.

I was hoping that you guys might be kind enough to look over my current tune and give me feedback. This is a daily driving tune, and I do enjoy the power. I like to have the passing power, but rarely hit WOT. Any input or comments would be appreciated. I am new to all of this, but trying to learn! I used a smarty S03 up until recently, and really liked the off the line power that it made. I have been very surprised by the lack of smoke that the Quadzilla makes so far. It is night and day compared to the smarty. The smarty smoked so bad that even with my relatively mild injectors, I had to be careful to keep from smoking out intersections on hard acceleration. I am glad to be rid of the smoke, but I liked the low speed power of the smarty. I suspect that the TPS gain had more to do with that than the actual tuning, but it would be nice to be able to mimic that low speed punch without the smoke. Power Levels:7 Timing Fuel Load Timing:3.0 Low PSI Timing Reduct:2.0 Timing Reduct Scaling:50 Light Throttle Timing Adv:2.0 Light Throttle Timing Load Limit:30 Timing vs rpm 1500:14 2000:20 2500:22 3000:24.5 Timing Max:25.5 Wiretap Pump Stretch:1800 TPS Pump max:60 TPS Pump Min:10 Minimum Pump Tap Fueling Percentage:5 Pump Low Boost Scale PSI: 15 Boost Scaling:30 RPM Limit: 3200 Power Reduction:60 0 PSI %:105 1 PSI %:107 2 PSI %:109 3 PSI %:111 4 PSI %:113 5 PSI %:115 6 PSI %:118 7 PSI %:121 8 PSI %:124 9 PSI %:127 10 PSI %:130 11 PSI %:132 12 PSI %:135 13 PSI %:137 14 PSI %:140 15 PSI %:144 16 PSI %:146 18 PSI %:150 20 PSI %:150 22 PSI %:150 24 PSI %:150 26 PSI %:150 28 PSI %:150 30 PSI %:150

Mine is nothing like that! I have no doubt that my tuning abilities are lacking. I will upload the tune I am using. This is loaded from my Dropbox using an iPhone, so if it doesn’t work, let me know. This one is decent power and pretty smooth. iquad-2018-06-15-08.08.07.json

Well the Quad has arrived and is installed. I am very happy with the amount of tunability that it has. I am working my way through building some tunes up, but I have to say, I just don’t see the level of performance that some people seem to have. I have seen a couple people say that they are breaking tires loose while towing, and mine hasn’t come close to turning them over empty! It is definitely a big step over stock, and a decent step over the smarty, but I am not just blown away with the amount of power I am making so far. It could certainly be in my tuning skills, so I am still optimistic! My big worry is I am possibly low on compression (unrelated to the Quad) and that may be impacting the performance. I may have to perform a compression test and check it out. I have a noticeable amount of blow by, so could be the case.

How is the clutch engagement with the 13” single disc? Did you upgrade to the HD hydraulics? Is it possible that the master cylinder is losing pressure and the clutch is not totally disengaging? The plate load is much higher than stock on the DD, and I assume that if the single is rated for that much HP then it would be too. Just saw in your our original post that you did the hydraulics. Most likely not an issue then.

I assumed that it was the mass of the clutch, but the OP got me thinking. The other shifts are fine, and no slower than the stock clutch. But a real bummer to build tons of power and still be so slow off the line. I won’t launch in 3rd, so I just have to deal with it. The clutch was selected for holding power while towning anyway.

I have a Valair DD quiet in mine, and I noticed a serious difference in the shifting. My 2nd to 3rd gear shift is very slow and a little notchy. 3-4 and 4-5 are no issue. The truck tends to shift smoother and quicker if I float the shift rather than clutch. I am wondering if one isn’t something similar. I just assumed it was a dual disk thing.

Mike, just curious if you went through with the body shop repair? My drivers side is getting pretty bad. Just wondering what it cost to have it done. It’s hard to get motivated to do things like this yourself when you know they are going to be a PITA before you even start.

Just placed my order. Now comes the hardest part, waiting by the mailbox! DAP was great in answering my questions and helping me understand what I did and did not need for my install.

Reading through the tuning guide and the install manual on the Quadzilla website helped a lot. With that and the answers here I think I have a better handle on what the Quad can do. Thank you for the help! I am sure that I will have more questions in the future as I learn.

Just a couple more questions... if if I buy the iQuadBT, can the BT device be removed and the quad be used WiFi? Since the price is the same for the iQuad and iQuadBT, I assume that it’s not that easy. But if you can add the BT head later, maybe it is. Which tuning should I opt for? Is the V2 the one that I want? It appears to have the most tuning options. Can the base code be changed easily? If I decided I wanted the ADR1000 for instance, how hard would it be to change it? I appreciate all of the help! I just sold my other tuners and boxes, so I am flush and just about to order the ADR. Not looking forward to driving around stock for the next week or so.

I have been thinking of going to the cable actuator on mine. My vacuum stystem has been working after trouble shooting the vacuum lines some years ago. I know that there are a ton of the vacuum operated systems on the road, but it still makes me nervous. Would hate to lose 4x4 at an inopertune time. The real problem with mine is the 4X4 light on the east stays on all the time. 4x4 engages and disengages properly, but the light never goes off. Replaces the switch with no luck.

I know that it’s probably not the popular choice, but I have had great luck out of the FRRP that I use. It holds 20psi at idle, and WOT won’t drop below 17. Granted, I haven’t tapped the pump, so my impression might change if the pressure drops too far with the wire tap. But for under $300, I don’t know that you can beat the value. For mild mods and daily driving, mine has been great.

I used seat foam and covers from Geno’s Garage. Kinda pricey, but worth every penny. Just make sure to put something between the foam and springs so the springs don’t just cut into the new foam. I used cardboard since it was what I had handy, but I have seen people spray adhesive burlap on too.

Another comfort upgrade I would recommend is new seat foam. I did new foam and Carhartt seat covers and it makes a world of difference. If your seat foam is as broke down as mine was, you won’t regret it. No more back pain on long hauls.

This is exactly what my truck does. Once I block the waste gate off I build around 34lbs of boost pressure. With the WG connected I only hit 22lbs. Your WG is just functioning correctly.