Cowboy

It's been a while but I finally installed the transmission that this filter goes on, and thus installed the filter! The transmission had some issues, so I've only got 397.8 miles of easy driving on this filter setup. I made two 100 mile round trips, that were for the most part going 55 in 5th (G56 so that's straight through). And then some shorter 40 and 10 mile trips. I never saw the fluid temp over 150°F, so the molasses-like 50 SAE fluid never thinned out as much as it could have. The filter I had installed was a WIX 51068 just because I had it on hand, I plan to install a WIX 57490 which is slightly shorter and has a 40 micron rating instead of 21. That being said, when I uninstalled the whole filter assembly and let it drain, I noticed that the fluid coming out of the dirty side had sparkles, while the fluid draining out of the clean side was sparkle free! I then cut open the filter and while there was a little bit of sparkles in the media, it wasn't anything to write home about, but then I looked at the oil that I drained from the filter! I would be a little more concerned, but because 350 of the miles on the filter were before I did a full disassembly, a lot of those sparkles are likely from before I owned the transmission due to the design of the synchronizer assemblies the worn brass likes to build-up on the inner synchro ring. I will also mention that the fluid I drained out of the trasmission had some sparkle to it, but not nearly as much as shown above. While it's not a complete no-brainer, I'm tempted to call this a sucsess! Once summer gets here, and with it the heavy hualing, I have to believe it will work even better.

Mike, how is that 50 SAE shifting when cold? That's one of my concerns with running it compared to the thinner stock fluid.

A .223 at 50 yards has about 1094 ft/lb's of force. A truck at 60mph has about 392,000 ft/lb's of force. A pencil has less than 1 ft/lb of force. They're all as dangourous as the user.

Cool Deal! I bet he'll enjoy it. If he has any issues, you know where to point him! Also, mention to him that he may want to address the KDP if it hasn't been yet, the 12 valves have that issue which if not fixed, can cause a lot of damage.

Election signs work good and are waterproof.

I'll likely be going with something like this shortly. http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/94-98-non-powertrain/1955305-d89s-supersport-headlights.html

He did.

There should be an "80" or "70" stamped on the front drivers side of the pumpkin to help ID which one you have. You can also try and draw a straight line between the 3 lower right bolts on the diff cover. The 80 makes almost a straight line, while the 70 is quite noticeably not straight. Dana 80 Dana 70 On the Dana 70/80 Hybrid. They came in all manual SRW Cummins trucks, and will look like a normal Dana 80 other than the fact they're SRW, and thus have the dana 70 sized wheel bearings.

If memory serves it's 0" - 0.004" on the mainshaft and countershafts. And then the reverse gear idler was 0.006"-0.010"

I agree with IBMobile. In that picture the guy was IMO a little skimpy with the heat shrink, I like to use a little more just to help support the joint and prevent it from breaking due to vibration. If you are unfamilular with the procces, check out youtube for some how-to videos, and practice on a couple joints ahead of time. Here's a good video. That gentleman didn't "tin" the wires first, I like this method if I'm working on something where I can hold the wires perfectly still in a vice or something, which allows me to hold the solding iron in one hand and the solder with the other. The advantage of tinning the wires (to put solder on the individual wires before joining them) is it frees up a hand to be able to hold wires or what not. Also, once your done soldering, make sure there are no sharp peaks or strands sticking out that can put a hole in the heat shrink. If you have a peak caused by the solder, you can run the soldering iron over top of it really quick smooth it out.

Flow and pressure are different, the volume going through the intake horn at 10psi vs 100psi boost is the same. The pressure drop between the turbo and the head didn't change any noticeable amount with the intake horn, it only delayed spooling 10-15 RPM. The pressure drop is more dependent on RPM as that dictates flow.

I assume by "stock 2 stage" and "single stage" you're referring to the Stock Dual Mass flywheel vs aftermarket Single Mass (solid) Flywheels. The advantage to the Dual Mass flywheel is it's sound deadening properties , because without one the G56 can be a little loud at times. The disadvantage is it's prone to failure and doesn't take increased HP very well. I would recommend doing some research on the subject to help you decide what's best for you. Here's a good read. https://www.turbodieselregister.com/threads/135592-G-56-guys-CLUTCH-UPGRADE!!-No-more-DMF!?pp=15&highlight=dual mass And some ear candy.

On the '97's the PCM only controls the RPM gauge, maintenance required indicator, and check engine light. All the other gauges interface directly to there corresponding sensor. There's a '97 wiring diagram in the downloads section that should help with your endeavour.

You could also go with a 47RH transmission. Then all you'd need is a switch for OD and lock-up.

The PCM gives the ground signal to the A/C compressor relay, as well as drive the tach. On the alternator, the PCM also drives this, but may also be caused by a faulty automatic shut-down relay in the PDC.

If you find out where you were, let me know cause I was must have been there as well. Tyler, it's really good to hear you got it back in decent shape, I've spent similar amounts of time on mine so hearing about yours really hit me hard.

Gentleman, I can honestly say I feel your pain.

Like said, it depends on the governor. Plenty of off-road equipment used the same governor setup as in trucks. Some of the early 12 valves had 838 P7100's. On the back of the pump, there will be a data tag that specifies the governor type. Maybe get the seller to snap a pic of it? Here's my stock 215 pump, notice the "RQV", that's the governor type. The translation is: R = Governor Q = Transverse spring V = Variable speed governor 400 = Rated minimum speed (idling speed = 1/2 engine speed, engine idle 800RPM) ... = controlled range 1400 = Rated maximum speed (= 1/2 engine speed, engine max speed = 2800RPM) P = P series pump designation A = Modification letter 121 = Type code 1 = Suffix K = Torque matching by characteristic.

As far as how much they can be tuned, this is full throttle from 1200 RPM with an HX35 and 5x13's. (I would recommend 480P minimum). I found I needed a stronger AFC spring, so I took a stock GSK spring and through it in the AFC, it took a little shimming to get them to act correctly, but the result is as you see in the video, fairly controllable. What wastegate modification have you done? With your current fueling configuration, you could easily be out flowing the stock wastegate. If it were me, I would adjust the fuel plate back till there's only a haze at WOT until you can get the gauges in.

My first tractor was a MF 699. First vehicle was an old suburban with load of bales, instructed on how to drive it over the walky-talky. haha

Jack! The ships gone!!!

Made a trip a couple months ago, lost the SD card but just found it... lol 215 '96, 280 Bar 7x10's, 265/75/16, NV4500 5th gear, ~70° Ambient Temps Averaged over the course of 6 minutes. Pre-EGT's - 641°F Post-EGT's - 525°F Pre IC - 163°F Intake - 92°F Boost @ Turbo - 8.2 psi Boost @ Head - 7.7 psi Drive Pressure - 9.4 psi RPM - 2080 MPH - 71.0 Also Climbing a short hill at 70 mph. These numbers are not averaged, but taken once everything steadied off. Conditions are the same as above Pre-EGT's - 797°F Post-EGT's - 601°F Pre IC - 184°F Intake - 97°F Boost @ Turbo - 14.6 psi Boost @ Head - 14.3 psi Drive Pressure - 15.0 psi RPM - 2086 MPH - 71.1

I'm not sure when they changed the gasket, the '98 I did had the same one. Leaking from by the thermostat housing is somewhat common thing. After having my engine sit empty for years, I had a lot of rust issues too. I tried flushing Lord knows how many time to no avail, pulled the radiator out many times. I gave up and plan on running a coolant filter temporarily at least.

The crappy fel-pro's are way worse. What you have appears stock.