Hammer

-Gauges first....Boost,EGT,Fuel Pressure are a must in a 24v.-4inch exhaust to free up the flow some.-A good air intake of some sort as it fits your budget.The BHAF/Mallory Mount combo is a proven piece if you do not wish to spend the extra on a aftermarket system.-An upgrade to your lift pump of some sort to fit your budget.FASS or AirDog would be the better units.As for fueling boxes I would reccomend the TST PM3 for the newbie's as its easy to install and makes good power.Its a simple up or down power adjustment with the optional controller and if you desire they have a digital gauge pack/controller which is very nice.To mount that on a pillar mount you will need to order a Quadzilla A-Pillar for the Scout system and the TST PM3 control will fit right in and is easily held in place with a good double face tape or velcro.We did that with my gals truck as she wanted it up where she could get at it easily and she wanted the ease of adjustment the TST box gives you.If your an automatic truck then you may want to consider some upgrade work to the transmission to make it live(shift kit-convertor and added depth pan) and make it more efficent.if your truck is a stick then you may want to consider a good single disc clutch to help hold the added torque when towing..Just some things to think about for you.I like the Edge Juice/Attitude monitor combo but feel its way more than a guy who is just looking for towing/longevity really needs........Andy

Once you drive the RV275's you will want more,trust me as it happens to everyone,LOL.Then when you get a good set of injectors,ones that really plant you in the seat,you will be on the long slippery slope many of us are on now. Careful now as once you start the slide there is no stopping it....:eek::biggrin::thumbsup:.......Andy

We had the same password issues with the switch over to V-Bulletin for our diesel clubs forums also.Not a bad job with the new look and it has to be easier to navigate than the old software..NICE JOB!!!!!....Andy

Its probably leaking from either the main oil feed line which connects to the rear of the pump in about the center or leaking from the governor assembly.Either place will allow the oil to fall where your seeing it and I'd bet money on the governor housing......andy

24v's....There were only 7 made BEFORE Janruary of 1998.They were all Quad Cab's,all 4x4's and all Sport's.They were used at dealer shows/displays and the bigger car shows across the country.Once they were done promoting them they were then sold at some of the bigger dealer auctions.They were all built in September/October of 1997 and they have the incorrect badging on the doors(it says "Cummins Turbo Diesel,like all the 12v's say).There is one that comes to my dyno shows usually and the owners know what it is and the complete history from the original owner after Ma Mopar sold it.

Here is the thing one will have to remember....With the addition of smoke comes more power and heat.If you do nothing to manage either then all the smoke in the world means nothing to you expect lightening the load in your wallet with wasted fuel.More power means more stress on the driveline,more smoke means less fuel efficency.There is a fine line on 12v trucks where fuel economy goes away to get to power levels above stock.Now keeping in mind he doesn't want to spend any money I would tell him to do little or nothing more than a good tune up.If the truck is a automatic since its a 95 then I would not go over a TST #6 plate(230hp/605tq) and if its a 5spd then a TST #8 plate(230hp/605tq) as they will give you the most power without driveline issues.Add a touch of timing and a AFC tune up and you should have enough smoke and power to not hurt your driveline or your wallet,over that and you will learn fast the saying..."Cubic Money"....AndyP.S.-"Cubic Money" is a term used to define the slippery slope of HP you will end up on once you get the need for more.The slide starts slow and speeds up the further into a project you go and there is no end of the ride in sight,LOL.This one you will have to trust me on.

Are you sure its not a gauge issue first?.One would think that a 95gph FASS should keep up and not show such a significant drop in pressure.Where do you have the fuel pressure gauge mounted in the line at and are you also running a pressure gauge on the FASS unit itself to see what its showing at the pump?....Andy

I disagree.... IF the previous owner has a SBC Double Disc clutch installed it will have the tell-tale rattle that most all the big doubles have.HowevermPeter has engineered his units to not rattle as bad as others and eariler versions of his own design.I call that being politically correct they call it making the customer happy,LOL.Many owners when they go to the big double discs complained about the rattle and SBC did their best to limit how loud it is.I can tell you this they are alot quieter than my old school EEP double that sounds like its flying apart when you depress the pedal.I would ask the previous owner what SBC unit it is though before seeing what the issue is.If the owner will not help you or can not remember ask him who did the install and maybe a simple call to peter at SBC and you will find your answer. I will also offer that many double discs get unhappy with street daily driving and need to be taken out and burned in.Meaning that you walk into it at high rpm like the puller do to reseat the unit and make it happy again.If they get glazed from daily driving they will slip under a load however do not do this unitl you have done some legwork to find out what unit you have..........Andy

In the years I have ran our clubs dyno events I have seen many trucks equipped like yours and my best guess to the ground would be in the mid 300's,like 350-375hp,to the ground due to the stock charger which limits your top end performance.On a early 24v stick truck which came equipped with a HX35/12cm you will be close to out of the chargers map at 40psi and it will only make heat from that point on killing your performance.The best running stock 24v stick truck we had was a 01.5 5spd truck that did 403 and he was equipped with a DDUFM Drag Version(basically a Edge Comp Drag) and he had Bulldog 6's for injectors.He also had huge EGT heat issues when he ran the truck above level 4x5.The tires will not hurt or harm your dyno numbers as both the 305/70's and 285/75's are the same height just the 305's are a tad wider.However,I do agree that they will hurt you for fuel milage over long runs as wider and taller=heavy and rotating mass kills MPG.If your going for all out milage you need the tallest and narrowest tire you can find and mount it on the lightest billet wheel you can get.Tall and narrow with alight wheel was the only way we found any difference in dyno numbers as the lighter combos made more power........Andy

Not sure around the Twin Cities,howver,if your looking for a good quality shop and one that can do work call and chat with Garrett Shields at PureDieselPower.com .They are located 3 hours east of you in Marshfield,WI and one of the best shops up in your area.They can fix you up with what you need or want to do.......Andy

Russ.. With you being in the smallest state RI you are a stones throw away from one of the best shops to deal with about our trucks,Scott Hovey's MassDiesel located in Walpole,MA.If Scott can not fix you up or get you what you need then it can not be had or bought.He is one of the best Dodge Cummins guys out there and one of the nicest guys you willl ever meet.Here is a link and tell him I sent you....... www.massdiesel.com ......Andy

Someone mentioned a need for a hood???.... Try this website for your hood as I just used a random search and found some in your area......... www.car-part.com Hope this helps with that and its too bad your not closer as I have a mint condition hood which came off my 98 Flame Red Sport which I would sell.The cost to ship it would be worth more than the hood going to where you live.......Andy

Have you pulled and checked the fan blower motor resistor?.Its located on the bottom of the heater box inside the cab mounted with two screws,It will casue some of the symptoms your having.Also of note the Second Generation Dodges are NOTORIOUS for the A/C evaporator cores failing and causing the system to loose charge.In the 206,000 miles I have owned my truck I have had 3 installed(2 by Mopar under warranty and the last one by my local A/C man last year).When I did the last one we also did the heater core to be safe as I did not want to pull the dash and air box a second time......Andy

Here in Pennsylvania where I live they have begun checking for mufflers at State Inspection.They are now NOT considering the turbo as a muffling device and owners are being asked to have one in place.While many of the local kids here think its not fair and a pain in the tail they are not considering that it could be worse.They could stand by the Federal regs which state that if the truck was equipped with anti-pollution equipment(ie-resonator/catalytic converter) then it must be in place.So when my inspection mechanic gave me the heads up a year ago I just gave in and placed a muffler in my system and did not look back.They are also now cracking down on diesel pick-up owners who are stack equipped and not using heat shields.They are allowing a stack in a stack style as a heat shield instead of the gawdy nasty screens which are on class 8 rides.Also of note if you are stacked equipped here in PA you also need a muffler and they do not consider the square tube stack box as one..........Andy

Most guys will drill the end of the filter to mount their minders on/in.I have yet to understand why anyone would want to do this as to me once you drill the filter you compromise its ability to properly filter your air by allowing another place for dirt to easily slip by.See what most owners do not consider when doing one of these filters is that they are designed for a much larger and more demanding class 8 motor than what ours are and are changed at much longer intervals on those other class 8 motors.Most Class 8 diesel owners will run their air filters about 60k before checking or changing them so with that thought imagine what the possible service life of this size filter could be on our trucks.Its my opinion that if your running a good pre-filter do not drill for the minder just keep the pre-filter clean and check the BHAF surface when you do it.The one which was on my truck way back when had 40k on it when I passed it on to a local member when I went to the higher flowing and more efficient AFE Stage 2.I know he put another 30k on it before he came back to me asking about where to get a new filter.I know its your truck and your decision,but,if it was mine the minder would go to the attic with the stock airbox...............Andy

I have had mine done now with the updated nut for about the last 100k.I have had zero issues with it since EEP in Ohio did the upgrade when we did the Dual Disc clutch install way back then.I have 206k on mine now and all but the first 30k have been done using Schaeffer Oil's moly equipped gear lubes and the trans is as tight as ever....Andy

Huge losses in power and erratic ilde on a VP44 equipped truck usually means that you have isses that are not ECM related.Have you checked the fuel pressure at all on this truck?,I have seen many trucks do what your describing and it usually ends up with a lift pump and VP44 pump failure due to low fuel pressure.See if the lift pump fails or is weak the VP44 will still draw fuel as long as the system has no air leaking into it.This causes low power syndrome,hard starts,low idle,erattic performance.IF the truck is driven a long time like that you will usually end up with a VP44 that fails.You should have the truck checked for codes and let us know what you pull off the truck....Andy

John...The reason your 98.5 did not have them is because they must not have been ordered as they were available as my 98 12v 5spd has them.There is no difference in the inserts from fog to non-fog and the lights can be had yet from Ma Mopar,LMC Truck or Geno's Garage.As already stated you will need to relay for the PDC and the passenger air bag/fog light switch panel for the dash either from Ma Mopar or a good salvage yard.I have just done this to my sons truck and we got the lights from Geno's,the relay for the PDC from Ma Mopar and the needed switch assembly from a buddies salvage yard.The bumper inserts that were there did not need changed and the lights slipped in with no issues.........Good Luck......AndyP.S.-Moparman.....There I posted so you do not need to send me to the scrap heap,LOL.