CTcummins24V

Shoot! It might be time to invest in a gun. HVLP (high volume low pressure)? Just for color and clear? I can do touch up with primer rattle cans.

Swap is worth it, if you have to rebuild it either way.

Color is all on, no clear. Now I'm debating doing the entire side, couldn't look any worse than it is now.

wet paint, no clear, need to finish the back

I should get some color on today, I'll post pics later

I got all the chips out with a shop vac.

There's factory pain underneath the decal. You just need get the decal off, which you have to do either way to paint it. Heat gun it!

What combo?

Either one will destroy a stock transmission. I could slip my converter with EZ and 60 hp injectors, but in normal driving it was fine. Your HY35 turbo wouldn't like the comp, unless you plan on upgrading down the road. In reality, if you play nice an EZ could be good. Keep some extra cash for when the tranny goes, it's pretty much inevitable on a stock 47re.

Same situation here, put a redhead on and it was tight for weeks or months. Now she's wandering again...

Duplicolor everything. Etching primer, then filler primer and then color and clear. I ended up spraying it for piece of mind, but now I have to sand it back to bare metal in one spot to fill a dent with bondo. I should have read the bondo directions before hand, idiot! Bondo and self etching primer to get on too well I guess. So some sanding, bondo, primer filler, then primer filler everything then sanding and color. Looks better already, now I just have research how to blend color and clear in the body line.

Before...

Is this going to flash rust? Or can I leave it bare for a week or two?

I used a heat gun and pealed it off by hand, piece by piece. Then some goo gone or adhesive remover. The paint underneath looks a lot nicer than the rest of the truck

With the front off the ground there is no rubbing what so ever. No control arm rubbing, maybe an 1" or more of clearance. I don't know what the clearance is when everything is sitting on the ground, with my 285/75 r16s. Stock 2nd gen rims have 6.5" backspacing. My new rim has 4.5" backspacing, with way more clearance underneath.

Oooo I like the color match

800/300, what's the stall speed? I have a low stall and I hate it, it stalls my truck out and I'm swapping it out for a stock stall or higher stall speed. It shifts way too soon for normal driving, but it's great when you're on the throttle. Ryan, so how many cummins do you have now? A 12v, a 24v and CR?

No rust, southern truck, only seen 2 winters. Just chipped and missing paint and some oxidation. Great tips guys, I think I'll try a section behind the tail pipe and see how it comes out. Self etching primer, duplicolor color match and clear. One more question, temperature. It's winter in Ohio and this is getting done in my garage. I have a little heater, I know cold temperatures will slow the curing process but is it a big factor in this rattle can paint job?

JR, haven't forgot about you. I've been traveling like a mad man and I'm in Oklahoma this weekend. I'll get back to you next weekend. I'll do a comparison to the new rim I got too, 4.5" backspacing, no offset.

I'm thinking of rattle canning the lower part of my truck on my bed to prevent rust and spruce it up. Should I strip it to bare metal or just scuff really well? 2 coats of primer? 2-3 base and then clear? Behind the rear wheels the body is down to primer so I was thinking of just stripping it down, see photos. Duplicolor has color match paint, I was thinking of going that route. I've never done body work on a vehicle so any input would be great. I know it won't be tip top shape, but I still want it to look nice and any input would be appreciated. Thanks, John

Yup, at 1-2 quarts at least.

Genuine Mopars fit the best, but are $400. I got kool vues, heated and power for under $200. No real issues, they vibrate a little bit at idle and don't fit to the "T", but still fit well and for the price I would buy them again.

I replaced mine with TYC from RockAuto, less than a year ago. Looks great! Can't say anything to the longevity however.

It was a DTT, not a fuel boss or mitusa. Both of the latter have a proven track record.