CTcummins24V

Happy New Year! As far as I know I have no rubbing. Didn't have any with stock front end, I don't see how a leveling it would change it. My truck had 305s on it when I got it and there were no wear marks.

I have a redhead gearbox, it was great the first few months then loosened up. Then again I haven't adjusted the nut yet either so it could just need some tightening. In the future, I would do a new borgeson gearbox and shaft.

33s, 285/75r16. I'm back on the east coast visiting my family and won't be back to Ohio/my truck till the weekend.

craigslist always has em, between Columbus, Cincy,Cleveland. Indiana too but that's further. Louisville, KY has this place which specializes in swaps https://www.facebook.com/wevegotparts

If that isn't it, I just spoke with Phil Taylor at DPC (diesel performance converters), he said that a lower stall converter and a tight converter can stall your engine out. His recommendation is a stock stall, but sounds like your problem might go deeper than that.

Set the idle higher than stock and it could help? Any downside to this? Mine stalls out with my new triple disc when put into gear as well

Oh sweet! Thanks Bryan! I am also in Findlay. I've seen his ads on craigslist but never knew the shop name.

I concur, my previous setup was definitely pushing more air than the exhaust could handle. Can the exhaust side be machined? I think at that point I'm better off with a new aftermarket unit. I've been putting off buying a turbo, mainly because I don't have $1200-1400, but I don't want to sacrifice spooling, especially with my current torque converter. I'm still debating the super b, but now I'm debating the ATS 3000 because of it's supposed quicker than stock spooling. I almost always keep my RPMs between 1800-2200 and don't race my truck, so I don't need/want top end. But, when I had that 60mm, my truck had a lot more power, so some turbo upgrade is in the future.

I have a Holset WH1C (HX35 essentially) 56/60/14 and am looking at upgrading to a 58mm compressor wheel. Does anyone know what diameter the compressor housing needs to be machined to accept this wheel, before I call BAE? I tried a 60mm wheel and cover previously but it surged so bad I sold it. The WH1C doesn't have the MWE (map width enhancement) slot that the HX has, probably another factor in the surging. I figured for $70 and some machining, a 58mm upgrade would be a good experiment. Stock 56mm Wheel http://baeturbosystems.com/compressorwheelformitsubishitd04hl4350mminducer-5600mmexducer-3-1-1-1-1.aspx 58mm Upgrade http://baeturbosystems.com/compressorwheelformitsubishitd04hl4350mminducer-5600mmexducer-3-1-1-1-1-1-2-1.aspx

Between NAPA, TSC and others I always find valvoline 15w-40 dino for $12/gallon, fleetguard stratapore filters for roughly $15. Can't complain for an oil change with great products for around $50.

Could be torque converter is staying locked. I have the same problem. Haven't officially diagnosed whether it's the TC itself or the electronics in the valve body. Check for codes..Does it do this all the time or when cold or warm? Stock tranny?

When I did my hemi I used moog greasble, but I only put about 20k on them, no issues in that mileage.

Oh ya, that's nice! My brother had a red one. Rugged power/torque, those are fun!

I did mine the Michael way, no leaks so far

http://www.cumminsperformanceparts.com/

No, just the upper. But those sealed ball joints are supposed to last the longest, like spicer sealed u-joints. There's many theories out, sealed vs greasable, I'll take my chances with oem sealed units. Both my front drivehsafts have spicer sealed u-joints, they appear to be the originals with 223,000 on the clock. My old shop recommended them, that's what they used when the balanced and replaced the joints and on my 2 piece rear shaft.

Sorry, hijack, 04 mustang mach1? shaker hood? 5 on the floor? What color?

Connect the stock lift pump till the truck runs. I ran my batteries dead last time I switched injectors. Must have bumped the starter 30 times, cracked the lines and finally she went. Does the assassin have the return valve regulator or whatever it's called?

Dana spicer, but I'm avoiding driving it this winter. No more salt for this old girl, I want to keep her for a long time. http://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/p2077_spicer_708047_ball_joint_set_for_2000_and_newer_dodge_ram_25.html#photo

Thanks mopartech, I think I did the exact opposite of what you said haha, but I think it depends and how you press them. Either way it worked just fine, ball joints are in. They pressed in a lot easier than they pressed out.

Could the 60mm turbine housing be machined to accept a 65 mm wheel?

So I have both the upper and lower ball joint removed, I did the lower first then the upper. Is there a specific order I need to install them? When I did them on my old hemi I seem to remember my mechanic buddy telling me to install the upper ball joint first and then the lower so the press won't get in the way of anything?

I'm selling my 60s, see classifieds

Cool! Thanks Randy!