CTcummins24V

Good to know, thanks. Does hubcentric versus lug centric make a difference on our trucks?

Does anybody know what the stock wheel load rating is, for the rim? I ordered some after market wheels rated at 3,200 lbs per wheel and now I'm worried about them not being beefy enough. I'm mainly concerned about the integrity when the truck is loaded up/towing. They fit the bill when calculating GVWR per axle, but after doing some research on other after market rims they are in the 3,400-3,600 lb range. I'm just curious of what other people have run into...

4" MBRP stainless. If I could do it over again, I'd definitely go with a 5" though for the deeper sound. Everything is clamped and nothing has fallen off in over 2 years.

What he said! I'm running my carter pump disconnected (dummy plugs) and then hook it up when I change the filter or injectors for priming. Once the fuel boss is primed I haven't had any issues what so ever. You can run the carter with a hobbs switch, included in the kit, but mine was acting funny so I took it out of the loop. I did run the batteries dead one time when I took the injector lines off and blew them out with air, but I also didn't crack the lines when priming until later in the process. Those belts are only like $12, a small price to pay to have 1 or 2 under your seat. I can't tell if my front crank seal is leaking or if my front oil pan gasket is leaking, but I think leaking front oil pans is one of the few minor issues with a fuel boss/mitusa. I see a lot of heavy equipment these days, rollers, lifts, dozers with 4bts, vps and carter pumps. I've only see a few with mechanical pumps, some of the deeres.

Raybestos blues?

Fuel boss. 2+ years, 20,000+ miles so far. I think there are filtration options but add another $150-200

Thanks again guys, I love this forum! Great community!

Congratulations Joe!

Thanks guys, great advice! I might have to rethink my strategy for getting out of the suburbs and back into the woods this spring.

Clips and all

I'm thinking of getting a travel trailer to live in while I build a house, somewhat long term, maybe 2 years. Any recommendations? Spending about 20k, just for just me for now. I have no idea what to look for or stay away from, any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks, John

I'll get some good pictures when the weather gets nice

Did everything online, didn't deal with anyone. I'll hopefully tell you about the pad this summer...haha and a lot of change.

It looks nice! http://www.lmctruck.com/features/de/DEDP1.htm?utm_campaign=20150209_DE_Customers_1998_2002&utm_source=et&utm_medium=email&utm_content=Main_Dodge_Dash_Image

upgrade from 4 pinion planetary to 5 pinion too, maybe 6

TCS Arizona (not canada) input shaft is good too, got mine from DAP for $675. Don't forget heavy duty flex plate if you're doing a triple disc and billet input shaft. Do some research on low stall converters. I have one with 100hp injectors and it stalls my truck out when put in gear, I have to swap it out for a higher stall/looser converter. What gears do you have? 3.55s? 4.10s? You might be OK with 4.10s and a low stall converter. I would call a torque converter place and pick their brains. I don't like mine, it shifts way too soon for around town driving but it's great when you're heavy on the throttle.

I can't believe that tranny went out on a hemi that early. GT tuner have anything to do with it? Tow with it? I had an 03 2500 hemi with about 140,000 miles, diablo sport programmer, air intake, throttle body spacer on the stock tranny with no issues. Towed with, romped on it

Kerley, -when signed in, go to the top right corner of the page where your log in name is, click it, there should be a drop down menu -then click my settings -on the left side of the page, click signature and go from there

What MnTom said, and you would need to remove the turbo from the manifold to completely check it out. To see if the waste gate is frozen, disconnect the line on the compressor housing and blow compressed air in it to see if the actuator moves. Fill out you signature so we know what you're working with, HY35? HX35?

Trying to get some experience. I tried my tailgate with a rattle can as a test, and after 3 coats of color it's still patchy...Definitely time to invest in a gun and some quality paint with some thicker coats. My tailgate was in real rough shape and I didn't finish prep work, but I wanted to gauge painting larger areas with a spray can. Experienced advice was right again...

Agreed ^ I have a 2001.5 (four wheel disc brakes) with a 47re

Chech the linkage on the tranny, driver's side. If there are cables and metal brackets it's a 47re, if there's a big plastic box it's a 48re. Behind the bell housing and over the tranny pan.

Ya, I was thinking of bedliner but I like the factory red everywhere, and I'm getting black wheels and I didn't want black everywhere. It's in debate...

Industrial Injection has them for $800-900, but for that price I'd upgrade to a new turbo for $1,100.