CTcummins24V

I was going to get SAC 100s but after talking to guy who just put them in, he said he lost mileage with SACs. That was the only reason I went VCOs, but now I have a spare set of injectors to play with

My only gripe with cummins is that they never have light duty parts in stock, other than oil filters, so you never get your project done that day. Like today, nobody in a 2 hr driving radius of me had injector tube o-rings in stock...

Is there a way to disconnect push lok fittings without cutting the fuel line? I need to check my bypass valve for debris on my fuel boss and I don't have a lot of extra fuel line if I cut it. I'm trying to diagnose my stall issue upon cold start up: the truck stalls/almost stalls when put into drive or reverse from a cold start. Once it's been run, it's fine the rest of the day. This started happening when I put my triple disc torque converter in. I have new injectors ready to go in, but connector tube o-rings won't be in till later this week. I'm guessing it's either low stall converter issues, debris in fuel line, or connector tube leak.

That was my question as well, and reading DDP's website they say set it to 290 bar...

300 bar 100 hp VCOs

Mike you were right, as usual, nozzles alone with testing would be more expensive so I just ordered 100 hp injectors for $350, maybe it was $380 with cross over tube rings.

Just to reiterate, torque the hold down bolt to 89 in-lbs, then push the cross over tube in and tighten the injector line? I think last time I pushed the tube in, then torqued the hold down bolt to spec...

I might need the money haha. I'm hoping to keep them as back-ups or take the nozzles off and get a set of 150 nozzles down the road, but I will let you know first if they're up for grabs Dave

DDP recommends the pop off pressure to be 290 bar and I've seen it like you said at 310, is there a set factory pressure? Should high performance injectors be set higher?

At what RPM? I get a rattle at 1300-1600 roughly during medium throttle, then once the turbo is pushing some air and the motor is in her sweet spot it goes away. Fill out your sig. so we know what you have. Manual? Automatic? Rattling in lock-up at low RPM?

Do I need all new o-rings and copper washers even though I replaced all of them just over a year ago? Connector tube o-rings, injectors o-rings, copper washers? That would be an unwanted $40 if I can avoid it, but it seems like the right thing to do...

Thanks, all the sensors have been replaced with oem sensors. I think I need to head down to the dealership and get a fancy OBDII reading.

I hope it's only $15 per injector, then I should break even price wise and learn how to take apart injectors too.

For $50 it's worth having another set of injectors kickin around. Now I can sell my 60s, put huge nozzles on them or keep them as back ups.

I just ordered some 100 HP nozzles and picked up some stock injectors for a swap. I can't seem to find any good write ups/instructions for swapping the nozzles, torque specs, tips? Maybe 28 ft-lbs? Seems pretty straight forward but any help would be appreciated, thanks.

I'm having the same issue. Ever since my triple disc was installed, my truck almost stalls out from a cold start and getting put into drive or reverse. Yesterday was the first day it actually stalled out. Time for some 100s/125s...

Picture please?! Where does the ABS module ground to? I replaced all the sensors, one front wheel bearing and my light is still on.

Sell your stock injectors?

Cool, thanks. Any input as to VCO vs SAC? I've read SACs might be more powerful and smokey, any inclination as to fuel economy? VCOs more efficient at 100-125 hp level?

Good good!

Take the work and run! Keep those paychecks coming!...Beer

Ordered the spicers from dennys driveshaft, I don't think the top ball joint is greasable on either brand. Now I just need to find the right cup set for my press...I have an OTC press with some generic cup sizes and I can only find master kits for ungodly amounts of money. Anyone have any info/tricks or part numbers? Thanks.

Drop your tranny pan and fluid into a white 5 gallon bucket. If your pan is lined with clutch material, your converter is probably done. How many miles? After the fluid sits a while in the bucket, the clutch material will settle to the bottom and you'll see it when you dump the fluid into another container. On the flip side, once drained, the tranny may NOT be drivable if refilled with fresh fluid because you lost all your friction material. So, you might want to keep driving her till she officially craps out and start fresh....$$$

A slipping converter will grab and slip constantly in lock up causing vibration.

Firepunk