CTcummins24V

Thanks for the input guys, If both Spicers are greasable I'll go that route, if not the Moogs. I know both of the Moogs have zerk fittings. Supposedly Spicer sealed u-joints have a longer life than the greasble ones, and that was one of my questions, to grease or not to grease?

Finally!

Dana 60 4x4...Moog problem solvers or oem Danas? The Danas are a little cheaper for one side, about $70 and Moogs are about $90. Any input as far as quality or longevity? Because this is lengthy and annoying job, I don't want to replace them again anytime soon. Thanks

Liberty?

Push up hard on your driveshaft and see if the rubber is perished on the carrier bearing. With a slight push mine hardly moves but when I put my weight into it it moves almost 3/4 of an inch. I am hoping that is my cause. U joints are suspect though too.

Im in the same boat. A new Spicer carrier bearing comes in tomorrow, i'll have it in next weekend. Next, I have to replace one front wheel bearing and check u joints. Check your front wheel bearings and ball joints with the prybar method.

I've used both with success. Well, I just did my rear with a gasket and "great stuff" on either side of the paper gasket. 35 ft-lbs in criss cross pattern. Just make sure the mating surfaces are clean clean. A lot of people don't bother with the torque specs but it's nice for peace of mind.

Yaa! What mopartechnician said! Borg warner solenoid or DNJ extreme duty (more expensive, comes with new mounting plate too). If you have a really hard 3 to 4 shift get that spring too.

...I want both

ABS going off randomly! Driving down the road and I touch my brakes and the ABS goes off and then I have to stand on my brakes before going through a stop sign! I assume it's from my driver's side wheel bearing going bad.

98whitelighting? dripley?

Not yet, I'm not ready to pull the trigger just yet so I haven't called. $400 for 100 hp SAC injectors sounds good, DAP VCO 100s are $400 too, either way it's good!

Check the timing cover to engine block seal too

Would a bad front wheel bearing make the ABS/Brake Light come and go intermittently? I just used a pry bar under both front wheels and looks like a bad lower ball joint on the passenger side and a good "thud" on the driver's side with no ball joint movement. I would assume wheel bearing, and that was the side that popped up on the snap-on scan tool as a bad sensor.

Anyone heard of DFI (Ducky Fuel Injection) out of Arkansas? They have some 100 hp SAC injectors that i'm interested in trying. I have DAP 60s now and they're good, but I wan't a little more and would like to see how SAC injectors will do power and economy wise. DAPs smallest SAC is 125 hp, which might be hot for my current turbo, and my turbo upgrade is going to have to wait till next year, but injectors are budget friendly this fall!

Picture?

Leaves are turning and dropping out here in Ohio too

Could someone look on their truck and see where this ground is tied in to? It was tucked under something and disconnected when I found it, then I grounded it on my fender and I think it was getting noise and making my ABS go hay wire.

I replaced my rear diff. sensor with a BWD part from O'Reilly's...it was faulty from the getgo, lost my speedo and brake lights came back intermittently. Ordered an SKF brand from Rock Auto, supposedly it's an exact OE part...got my speedo back and no brake light! But, I'm still fighting ABS going off from time to time and my rear brakes locking up, it's scary. Any suggestions? Bad control module?

I just replaced the rear diff. sensor hoping it will clear my problem...the abs/brake light comes and goes and sometimes when I touch my brakes the ABS goes off and my rear wheels lock up. Would replacing the front 2 sensors and leaving the stock rear one cause this? They're all new now and I haven't taken for a test drive yet...hopefully the old gal will make the 4 hour trek to Indianapolis tomorrow.

Try some heat? I had some stuck turbo nuts and I used a 12pt combination wrench and hit it with a hammer to break it loose.

What is it? I got the Timbo APPS all fine tuned...same deal. Cold start, put it in gear (drive or reverse) and she nearly stalls out, once down the road and warmed the rpms fluctuate when shifting put not close to stalling.

It has to be fuel related right? So does it take a minute for fuel to pressurize the lines?

Could be valve body or APPS/throttle linkage related. I tried to install a transgo shift kit and I botched it somehow... Just what you said, It felt the the torque converter was slipping all the time. Come to find out, my TV cable was disconnected, which I'm sure didn't help, after that I just dropped my truck off at the tranny shop for a rebuild. The builder went through the valve body and fixed whatever I screwed up, which I'm guessing is the culprit.

....shoot. I hope it's not the VP. Mine doesn't lope, but when I put it in reverse from a coldstart it almost stalls out. As soon as it's warmed up it doesn't stall in reverse. This just happened to me last week when I got my triple disc installed .