TFaoro

If all of the bores and pistons look good I won't be touching them. Thank you Mike! It will definitely be getting head studs.

I'm on a budget, so it really depends on what I find. If all goes as planned it will have the head reworked, possibly O rings, head studs, 188/220 cam, CR tappets, and valve springs. I may be missing a few things in there. I'm also planning on all new syncros in the trans because 3rd and 4th are starting to get tired. They will shift fine if you're slow, but if you try to shift quickly they both grind. The transfer case was apart last summer and was in great shape so I'm going to leave that alone. My paint guy can't take the bed and topper for painting this week or the next, so I'll just throw them on a trailer and take them to him. I plan on filling this thread with pictures so stay posted! I'll make sure to ask if I run into any snags; thank you. The trans is not staying in though.....

Well I've made it home for the summer and it's time to start tearing this thing apart. I will begin tomorrow, but yesterday I took it to the dyno. Laid down 503 / 1215. I was very pleased with the numbers, but the knocking is getting worse to it's time to take it apart.

You're getting close, but the timing is electronically controlled by the ecm. I have no idea how he mechanically advanced it, but i'm sure there's a way.

Hey don't worry about asking questions you aren't knowledgeable on yet! We are all here to learn from each other, and this forum is different from the others in the way that your questions will be answered and you will not be ridiculed for not knowing everything. Your pump may be internally advanced, but you are correct by thinking the timing is still advanced as the RPMs and others parameters change. You can't have "too much" timing on a VP because the pump is internally limited by its hard parts on just how advanced the timing can be. The problem is no one has dissected the ECM to see just where the timing is during different conditions.

To me it sounds like the timing is so advanced in the low RPM range that it's making the turbo harder to spool and smoking more. (Less timing spools the turbo faster, then after the turbo has spooled advanced timing makes more power) This does not sound like anything wrong with the fuel system, just some advanced timing. You can probably learn to drive it smoke free in time. I have a smarty, and big injectors.... If I stuff it to the floor off of idle it will black out the road bad enough no one can see through the smoke. That said, I have learned to drive with a light foot until the turbo spools and the fuel can be burned.

Send it back and buy one from a vendor!! Let's support the guys who support us!

Peter is great to work with... He'll talk to anyone anytime and help the best he can. He'd be the first one I call

No worries or hard feelings here! I just don't want someone else to go through that. If Chip himself were the one running things I too believe it may have been a different outcome, but Doug was the only one I dealt with. We all live and learn.... I still recommend Blue Chip's diagnosing procedures to everyone, I just strongly urge people to stay away from their pumps. - Tyler

Check the things Mike posted as well. When you clamp the line which one are you clamping? Return or Feed?

Did your fass come with a check valve? I believe mine did when I got it. It should be plumed between the lift pump and the tank.

From my reading, the 6 speed can be hit or miss. Sometimes you get a great trans and sometimes they grenade. Lucky for you there are parts suppliers unlike 3-5 years ago when NV quit making parts for them. You should be able to have a reputable shop rebuild it for you.

You're welcome. It was a big kick to the teeth for me. I don't mind working on things.... I was 19 at the time though and going into my sophomore year of college. The money meant more to me than the labor. Now if a shop and to do all the work I might have been looking at hundreds maybe even close to $1k more after changing the pump three times and removing / installing the bed. I was lucky to stumble over here where there's always great advice from experienced guys!

Okay I'll spell out all the facts so nothing gets twisted. I bought the truck in April of 2013. Records proved the owner had replaced the original injection pump at 130k with remanufactured unit. The owner had also installed a junk lift pump with a regulator. I brought the truck home in May 2013 and replaced the Lift pump with a fass 95gph hpfp. At the same time I also installed boost, pyrometer, and fuel pressure gauges. In September 2013 the injection pump locked up without warning. I wasn't surprised because of the junk lift pump when I got it. The truck sat until December 2013 when I decided to buy a Blue Chip "upgraded" pump. At the time I thought more $ meant better. I installed the pump exactly how the Blue Chip site says to. The truck ran GREAT for 4.75miles. Yes I know the exact distance. It then threw a p0216 internal timing failure fault code. I checked over the install, cleared the codes and tried running it again. Once again it threw the code. I called Blue Chip and told them what happened. He said Ok I'll send you another pump and you need to send that one back. The new pump shows up and I installed it exactly how I did the last one. After about a week the truck began to white smoke.... a haze all the time except when in the throttle. Didn't matter if the engine was warm or cold. This is where it got bad. I called Blue Chip and told him what was going on. He told me I had debris in my tank or something that could be hurting the pump. I said fine, replaced the filter, took the bed off, and pulled the sending unit out. It was the still spotless from when I installed the Fass system. I called Blue Chip and left multiple messages telling him what was going on. He didn't return my phone calls. After calling him 15-20+ times in a week I finally got a hold of him using my dad's phone. I'm not sure if he was ignoring my calls/ messages or what. When I did talk to him he kept saying it must be my truck not the pumps. At this point I was fed up and done with them. I told them I wanted my money back and a core pump back so that I could make a purchase elsewhere. They were reluctant but finally agreed. I sent their pump out and they sent me a core pump. Then 3-4 weeks later I get a check for $50+ LESS than what I paid for the pump. So I ended up paying shipping to send their junk back to them AND had to pay for them to send me a core. When your pump screws up and I end up paying over $100 in shipping just to get back to square 1 I'm pretty pissed. I told them I would never send anyone their way and would do everything in my power to make sure no one buys their pump and goes through the experience I did. I immediately ordered an injection pump from Industrial Injection. I followed Blue Chip's installation instructions again, and the pump has been flawless since. I even sent the pump off this Christmas (pump was 1 year old) to Industrial Injection to be tested. It tested flawless. Now through this whole ordeal I attempted to talk to Chip but DOUG would not let me. Every time I told him I wanted to talk to Chip he would tell me that he could help with whatever I needed. I really hope no one has to go through the crap I did with this company. Imagine buying your dream truck and driving it for less than 6 months before having this fiasco happen. It really made me want to sell the truck. Shortly after I found this site and have been steered toward good advice and good vendors. I am not out to get Chip.... Doug on the other hand I have zero respect for.

Best for towing would be to drop the tire size so you aren't stressing the entire drivetrain so bad. Wheel bearings, tie rod ends, ball joints ect are going to have a much shorter life. If you're dying to keep the 37's I'd put 4:10s not 4:56

Well the last two times I have driven it the reading has gotten off over time, BUT both times the truck was started at high altitude and driven down to a much lower altitude.

Almost no customer support, wouldn't return my phone calls then in the end said my truck was the problem not the pumps. Did NOT get all of my money back either.

Mike is right! You aren't going to hurt anything on these trucks. The EGTs will drop and you'll experience some engine temp drop, but it won't hurt a thing. My injectors, programming, IAT fooler ect are probably the reason mine was acting funny.

184k.... I got it at 165. PO replaced injection pump at 130k and replaced the lift pump with a POS little gas pump. I threw a fass on it as soon as I bought the truck but the damage was already done. Then I went through 2 blue chip Pumps in a month. Now no problems with the industrial injection.

Maybe where you are?? 03-04s around here still top 18K. Maybe a smarty set to kill could top 500, but at that point you're stressing the injector solenoids, EGTs are sky high, Drive pressure is crazy high, and a new clutch is needed. If I was shooting for 8-900hp I would absolutely go with a 3rd gen! But being in college, if I break parts on my 2nd gen they are relatively cheap. I will step into a 3rd gen when I'm out of college.... probably and 06 or 07 5.9 and I'll go crazy on that one. Until then I'm going to enjoy tinkering with this one! Thank you for the tip Mike, I'll do that next time.

I think I'm right at 15k including the truck, and I'm at 500hp. To do that in a 3rd gen you need over 20k including the price of the truck.... Plus, my VP can put out more fuel than a stock cp3, my injectors are 1/4 the price of a third gen, nv4500 parts and pieces are cheap, and Second gens LOOK BETTER

MPG fooler was on.... so IAT's said 143* Remember my thread about the MAP sensor sticking on higher than zero? Well it was doing that again today. It would bounce between 2 and 4 psi while idling. Would that cause enough timing advance combined with the smarty? Also, ever heard one of these engines when a wiretap programmer is trying to fuel and the ecm is trying to idle?? It isn't pretty. CSM you should try popping it out of gear and snapping the throttle a little bit... see if you have the same symptoms. CR and College budget do not mix!!

Mines on her 5th pump. Original went out at 130k

Today I went up to the mountains and noticed something.... Whenever my EGTs were below 350* and I stepped on the throttle (NOT in gear) it really struggled to rev up. It would buck and pop and blow white smoke, then when it got to around 2,000 rpm it would smooth out and rev up higher just fine. I tried it multiple times because there were no cars around, and had the same result every time. Now why would it do this?? Could altitude be a factor? Could outside ambient temps cause it? Could high timing at low rpms cause it? I've heard of pre-ignition on diesels with high timing but I'm not sure if that's what it was. I will say the smarty was on #1 which is supposed to have higher timing than the rest, but I didn't bring it with me to see if setting it back to stock would change anything. Let's hear what you think!