Wild and Free

The off road mining / construction equipment industry is fighting this issue now trying to find places on the equipment for all of the emissions components but I have not seen any mfg talking about non Def system yet. I have read something a while back from Cummins own site where they are looking to design electric drive systems. Here are a couple news stories from Cummins site. https://www.cummins.com/news/releases/2017/10/16/cummins-announces-acquisition-energy-storage-technology https://www.cummins.com/news/2017/11/20/five-things-about-electrification-youll-only-hear-cummins

I will say that during DDing it made the power transfer seem a lot smoother once I added them. The wrap up in the video would be a lot less if it was loaded down fairly heavy too as the springs would be compressed so that alone would take some of the wrap up you see out of the equation too. Most of what you see is what the rear shackles are designed to allow.

Only reasons to have a ladder or traction bar would be to eliminate axle hop when spinning on low traction surfaces or if you are power pulling and or drag racing to hold the pinion angle correct to prevent high torque spring wrap up and release same concept as wheel hopping on loose material. I ran tuff country ladder bars on my 02 when i power pulled and drag races they had bushings in both ends and I had zero issues with them in off road situations where I needed flex which i did a lot. I purposely stayed away from the traction bar setups with heim joint ends because my rig was a daily driver and it saw a lot of gravel and salted roads and heim joints are known to wear out with constant movement if they are not greasable.

Copy / paste from their material. Xtreme™ Tractor Hydraulic Fluid is a straight SAE 20 weight product and is designed for use in warmer climates, where low temperature operation is not an issue.

Glad I drive more rural back roads than well traveled roads at very early or very late times of the day where i do not encounter any other traffic working shift work. Looking at these headlights and the price makes my Rigid Industry Dually D2 driving lights look like stadium lighting at a reasonable price lol.

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/bobcat-construction-equipment/ http://www.bobcatforum.com/DesktopDefault.aspx?tabid=54

That's not unusual with off road construction equipment no matter the brand, totally different world than on road vehicles. Bobcat has been around forever and is American made so there are tons and tons of places that sell aftermarket parts for the older skid steers if you search around and lots of used parts and salvage places that specialize in Bobcats. While searching things out for my tractor I have came across numerous Bobcat specific skid steer sites and forums.

At least you are making progress. When you checked the glow plugs did you unhook them all so they were all individually isolated? Yeah buying used equipment is always fun. I am working through things on my rig too. Snowblower is giving my bank account a heart attack lol. PTO shaft was way too short $600 for a brand new one the correct length then new seals in the gear box then hook up the hydraulic rotation orbit motor to find out the motor is shot there goes another 113 bucks for a new aftermarket orbit motor sheesh.

Trick question not fair.....................................You clearly asked in the title "Whats MISSING" not whats just off or not right in general

Looks to be a work in progress so lots of things are still MIA.

I don't see any beautiful model.

No the engine doesn't need to be torn down to work on the pump. The pump actually is only held into the block with 6 bolts/stud nuts and 2 alignment dowels but one needs to remove the intake manifold which is easy to lift it out and timing is set by adding or subtracting shims from between the in injection pump and block housing, very simple and easy design. These are super simple little engines to work on and like mike said general maintenance is key they will give you a long life. The pump cam stays in the block. Just a couple linkage springs to unhook through the side linkage cover you see on the side and one on top of the gear case.

Don't feel bad Mike. I am popping grays from my face like never before during my 46th year too, even starting to sprout one here and there on top of my head which i am blaming my wife for lol.

notlimah you and I have the exact same style and color moustache lol. This was my all too common look after digging out of my yard after last winters numerous blizzards. This is the cure I invested in this fall.

You will have to drain the hydraulic tank down to below the level of the pumps otherwise it will leak as you found out. Once old o-rings are disturbed you are screwed they are usually either rock hard and crack or rotted out and fall apart I would not recommend running it until fixed now as you may introduce air and dirt and cause major issues plus if you do start it now may wind up with a major leak. You have a Kubota engine so if parked outside in the cold it will be normal to start a bit harder than usual. Still a good idea to check the glow plugs though. i like to check mine once a year or every other at least. I am sure you have a V2203 Kubota engine same as what I put in my L2850 kubota tractor but unsure if it is direct injected or indirect. If indirect you definitely need to keep up on the glow plugs as they start fairly hard even when its warm out. Indirect injected engine should pop off pretty easy without much glow plug action until around freezing temps.

HaHa......I have not shaved off my moustache for 27 years, my wife has never seen me without it other than my high school and early college pics. My sis in law who is 53ish and in excellent shape to start with but has never ran, she does lots of other workouts though and is dead set to get me to shave it off so she has been training pretty hard since this summer. I told her if she runs a 5k in under 28 minutes during our local July 4 celebration of 2018 I will shave it. She accepted that challenge and took it one step farther with her husband and want to shave it old school with the horse hair brush for the suds and a straight razor. I took her up on that end of it.

Same as any other oils, try and keep the temps under 230-240. If you pull hard you will be amazed at how hot manuals get and how drastic shifting down one gear makes in temps. When I worked at the gear shop we had numerous customers who pulled heavy and routinely melted the gears and bearings of the input shaft. Totally amazing to see. We got to the point we installed temp gauges on most manuals we pulled when we saw this happen and customers would come back in amazement as to what they saw and how much money they could have saved themselves in repair costs had they changed their driving habits based on trans temps.

I agree with the above statement, hydros need about 1/2-3/4 throttle at minimum to do anything and keep the system happy but above that depends on work load and how hard you are working it. With skidsteers its all about getting a feel for the machine and what it tells you while working with it. If you are stalling out the hydraulics and or drive system and it is whining you need more throttle. The guy that bought my B2150 a couple weeks ago was not familiar with how hydrostatic transmissions worked either. He took it for a test drive and was wondering why the loader was so slow and the drive seemed so sluggish ect Had to walk him through the basics of a hydraulic driven hydrostatic machine as well and show him the difference in how they perform "or actually don't" when at low idle versus at half throttle or more then he finally understood and was a happy man and cut me a check for it lol.

I can deal with u-clamps crushing by cutting the outer pipe lengthwise where it was crushed with a 90* air powered grinder with a cutting wheel on it and spreading the pipe by prying it open enough to get things apart, very time consuming and a pain it the tukus but still better than welding.

The resonator actually quieted the exhaust noise down a lot along with eliminating the in cab drone completely. Still has a nice exhaust note out the pipe but is toned down greatly almost like a very mild muffler, the key is mounting it as far forward as possible. I can not comment on the short resonators as far as how they quiet the exhaust but the 30" resonator definitely quieted the entire system down about 50% at the end of the pipe versus straight piped with the cat in the system yet. DO NOT WELD YOUR EXHAUST TOGETHER BUD!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! There are quality clamps and adapters to put it together without the need for welding anything which will make for a nightmare in the future if you need / want to take anything apart again and you will at some point. The forming compression clamps are cheap and seal up excellent. http://www.ftediesel.com/store/pc/viewCategories.asp?idCategory=36

A 30" FTE resonator mounted as far forward as possible makes for a pleasant compromise. Added one to my 05 in place of the catalytic converter and it made the ride way more enjoyable in the cab. I have the oem exhaust which isa complete 4" system and did a muffler delete pipe and then replaced the cat with the FTE resonator only regret is not doing it years earlier. http://www.ftediesel.com/store/pc/viewCategories.asp?idCategory=7

I would not recommend it at all. Stay with a quality hydraulic oil, it is designed to protect and perform in a hydraulic system where as engine oil will work you will be sacrificing the component life and protection and absolutely do not mix the two. The additives can react and possibly cause other issues although rare i have seen things happen. If you were running a simple hydraulic system like a log splitter no problem but never on a hydraulic driven machine. In an emergency situation to get oil in it to get it out of harms way go ahead and then change it asap but don't run engine oil in it or mix it with hyd oil. If you do run an engine oil a straight 10w or a 0w20 are the only thing I would recommend. In bulk the best hyd oil that most big mines including ours are using to get great performance and excellent component pump and motor life isa syn blend oil called Produro 0w20 from petro canada. http://www.pclube.com.my/lz_images/products/MSDS_produro5.pdf But Of course I run Amsoil in everything I own, just swapped every cavity on my bobcat over to it as soon as I got it.

Yeah I just bought a used Bobcat CT450 utility tractor and fixed a few minor issues and Bobcat is really proud of their parts, lucky for me mine is a Kioti / Daedong built machine disguised as a Bobcat so most all the parts can be sourced from them a bit cheaper as long as it doesn't have the bobcat emblem on the box prices are half the price. Found my tractor is pretty much a twin to the Kioti DK50SE model.

Deleted is what I was referring to. You having issues with your 08?

What is amazing is how we spent bookoo thousands of dollars to get to the power levels these things have stock now and still get the same fuel mileage. Every time i get behind the wheel of a newer diesel with a big trailer on them no matter the brand it amazes me how much power they have now, absolutely no comparison to the days of the 5.9's even if modded. I really have no use for the power of a diesel anymore but will keep my 05 for a while yet. If I were to have ever gone newer I would not get anything newer than a 2012 Cummins to avoid the mess of the SCR "Def Fluid" emissions system.