Wild and Free

I am going to put a set of retreads on my 2010 1500 Hemi this fall, I know people who run them personally and read of a lot of others on the forums and have never heard one thing bad about their product. https://www.treadwright.com/ These are the ones I am going to get from them. Other than that I have been having awesome luck with the Hankook Dynapro ATM, they seem to be the most popular tire in my area for several years now, I love them on my 05, great all around traction and they are wearing extremely nice.

They stand on end nicely with a couple blocks once the clutch and flywheel are removed. Also may sound funny but I have seen all sorts of things dropped or left inside engines once torn down and the perfect spot is behind the block side cover for the push rod and tappets behind the ecm, this could cause all sorts of noises too.

My hearing sux to start with so trying to listen to a video that has a lot of echoing doesn't help me there but I was never fond of how the 24v vp engines sounded, never been around any 2 that sounded or ran the same, they were always a different sounding beast compared to 12v and cr engines, I have listened to many that were like yours where people swore up and down they had an issue but nothing ever showed up. Sorry I can't hear too good maybe others are hearing things I can't.

What does the hub portion of the clutch look like specifically the dampner springs and spline area?

I may have missed it but describe knock and conditions it was noticeable. Could be piston pin rod bushing going bad or getting loose in piston itself. You ever pull a UOA? Did you check the valve lash adjustment before pulling it apart or throw a dial indicator on all of the rockers and roll it over to actually see what cam lift was on all the lobes first? Another indicator of a lobe worn is if it has had numerous valve adjustments and one adjuster screw looks a lot shorter or longer than the rest at a glance. All very quick things that need to be checked before teardown should have occurred.

What are you going to college for? I had a total of about 30K into what would be equal to 4 years of college room and board included in the total from 1990-1993. 2 years of full time college for agribusiness and then 6 months @ Wyotech in Laramie for diesel tech program which was 8.5 hours a day 5 days a week schooling.

5.9 piston specs, found this info but not sure what series of 5.9 its for or if there is a difference so find the correct manual and take this with a grain of salt, more for reference alone to show what all needs to be inspected if you think you want to reuse parts. Piston skirt Diameter 101.864 - 101.88 mm 4.0104 - 4.011 in Ring Grove Clearance Intermediate 0.095 mm / 0.0037 in oil Control 0.085 mm / 0.0033 in Top Ring 0.35 - 0.45 mm 0.014 - 0.0177 in Intermediate 0.85 - 1.15 mm 0.0334 - 0.0452 in Oil Control 0.250 - 0.550 mm 0.010 - 0.0215 in Connecting rod Pin Bore Diameter 40.042 mm MAX 1.5764 in Connecting Rod Side Clearance 0.100 - 0.330 mm 0.004 - 0.013 in Piston Pins Pin Diameter 39.990 mm / 1.5744 in Bore Diameter 40.025 mm / 1.5758 in

Rings would be a good thing if the bores and pistons are good on a high mileage engine but if the bearings look good I would skip it. I would be looking real close and getting the spec for the ring lands before just throwing rings at it first, this is an area most never think about but is where a lot of wear occurs. everything may look like new but the ring lands can have wear in the piston and one will not notice unless you measure the dimension, every engine manufacturer has reuse guideline specs for this, there is also ring end gap and piston to cyl bore clearance specs. On a high mileage engine of unknown history I would put pistons and wrist pin bearings in the rods and while at it would have the pistons and rod assemblies weight matched, poor mans balancing tactic.

Got it boxed up right before I left for work and my lovely wife will get it shipped out for me tomorrow.

I think everyone I know who has or does 24v rebuilds puts nothing but marine pistons in them. IF THEY NEED THEM THAT IS, BETTER ADD THAT IN BEFORE I GET KEYBOARD LASHED AGAIN!!!!!

WTF are you saying, you totally missed what I wrote, take a chill pill there bud............... A: I never said anything about it getting sold and B: I was just relaying the point you so loudly pointed out that you were just repairing rather than rebuilding as in what Nick posted........... I like to joke round if you may not have noticed in the last several years of me being here.

Done, both here and over @ your place.

Just called them and now it needs to be boxed up and shipped back to them, they think I have a control module issue or a bad cord. Just my luck, this always seems to happen to me waaay too often. Back in the day of my 02 I had my Edge comp replaced abut half dozen times due to their ongoing no power up or no function when cold issue. Lots of folks on several forums had the same issue but edge played dumb about it every time.

Mads electronics main site sight is what I have been using, guess I put the forum name in the last post sorry fixed it..... It starts and runs fine, thats how I saw that the EGT gauge works on the touch display but nothing else that it needs to see through the ecm.

Has the latest version of firmware and I have been on the Mads electronics site a lot the last week, the only place I have been looking for info. To be honest I saw the link for the data logging update but never opened it as I thought it was another downloadable add on, didn't think I would already have it on the new unit.

Yep it goes into a thinking rotating box state for a few seconds and goes right back to the main menu, won't enter the ecm update are or the DTC area does the same thing in both instances of trying to access the ecm. They need to update the info on their site and on the printout they send with then as I can not find that info anywhere, doesn't show the red dot in any info I have seen.

Finally got hold of DAP and got the sale price difference refunded, now to wait until Smarty opens to troubleshoot the communication issue. Gotta get it done this morning as I am on night shift the rest of the week and am in a zombie like state in the mornings after night shifts, don't get home until 2am and won't get back to normal until around next sunday. Usually work 4 eleven hour shifts plus my 1/2 hour drive time each way so it is a 12hour day but this week I have to cover for a couple other vacationing foremen and have to work all week no days off so its a 60 hour week for me.

Sounds like he is going the route of repaired / reconditioned rather than rebuilt. Tail light warranty.................

My screen doesn't turn on automatically with the key, I have to touch the screen to wake it up either way key off or on. Weird thing is I have a red dot in the top of the screen between the main menu icon and the max value reset icon that isn't shown on any of their literature and when I touch it is kind of wigs out and acts like it is thinking and the red dot blinks constant until I touch the area in the middle of the screen where the main menu icon should be then it pops back to a normal screen again. I just Vin unlocked and unloaded a smarty jr last week and all was fine then and the rig has not moved from the garage since then.

Marine pistons.

Is that the elusive Chupacabra I hear about on Coast 2 coast at night?

Which is why I drilled where I did, I want closer cylinder temps not altered exhaust temp downstream of the cylinders possibly being affected by other things. This is a different animal than the 2nd gen manifold.

Either way you are only reading 3 cylinder temps, in the confluence it is seeing the rear 3 cylinders down stream, the top you are reading the front 3 cylinders upstream. Half dozen of one six of the other the way I look at it on this subject now......................I may get bored some day and drill the confluence in the rear section and see what it does in comparison, then I would have a second spot to access for drive pressure readings.

Well got issues I need to figure out. Got it installed all wires routed hooked up, she comes alive and I can navigate through the screens and dashboards ect but it isn't communicating with the ecm so I am stuck for now until I can talk to them tomorrow morning. The on screen EGT gauge works though but that is the only thing not running through the OBD2 port, it is an individual stand alone plug in.

Just got done doing the install and put it in the top of the manifold, no broken drill bits or taps or cross threaded adapter fittings either.