Wild and Free

They checked it out and found the OBDII cable was bad and may have killed the module somehow but have not determined the cause yet, new parts packaged up and shipped out this afternoon so I wait until sometime next week for arrival. Brian also shared the new yet to be released version of the users guide with me and I can say it is designed with me in mind, lots of pictures and easy to follow and very detailed.

They make nice trailer plug socket cleaning tools and kits, I like to keep electrical contact cleaner on hand as well there are many brands and most do a good job, just get what ever your local parts jobber has should work. It is an aerosol can but it eats the corrosion off nicely and then hit the socket with a cleaner and good to go.

You are going into life backwards already................YOU pay for the F350 and SHE pays for the rest...............you could split the cost of the bathroom depending on the amount of use each will get from it.

Thanks for the update!

I hear that from many down south, the 3rd gens around here can be found all over for mid teens for ones in good shape, there are the few who think they are still worth upper 20's to low 30k but they usually stay for sale for long periods of time and disappear off the classified sites and reappear and so on.

Carli's customer service is the best I have worked with when I got the first run of them they worked with me no questions asked. That was 5 years ago so by now I would think they have a near perfect product. They had the issue figured out back then they were just refining some manufacturing processes yet.

I have seen them both ways, not sure why they did it that way, about 6 months ago I just helped a friend with an 03 auto who had a shop do some tranny work for him and they replaced the rear adapter housing due to a crack and we found they forgot to put the o-ring in when we got it apart, it had a pretty fair oil leak if you could imagine.

He wants bigger, so 2006 and up is what he wants Not sure what you mean by not being able to afford to keep a 3rd ge going, after 3 2nd gens my 05 has been the best of the best and I rarely touch it plus I was thinking more along the lines of 06+ Mega cab.

The bore for the cam goes all the way through the block and the rear of the block has an o-ring between the block and rear adapter housing that seals this bore. A lot of people forget about this one when chasing oil leaks at the rear of the engine.

By saying "easy to roll a set in" I am assuming you are not planning on lifting the crank out? I hope you didn't go his far and not going to reseal the font cover to block and rear adapter hsg to block and rear cam o-ring?

I have Carlis in my 05, I got the first run of them and they had issues, they sent me a second set I actually have been running for 5 years now that should be replaced as they still had hardening issues and mine are galled up internally but they did wear in and quit squeaking after about 3 years and regular greasing. I notice my uppers have developed a bit of movement like the stockers had too. One of these days I will get hold of them and warranty out the set and hope they got all the issues worked out over the last 5 years. Their customer service is second to none from my initial experience. For the money it had better be though. Looks like a few folks went to dyna tracs and had good luck with them too. My pics and story start on page 2 of the thread from TDR. I go by BILLVO there. http://www.turbodieselregister.com/threads/222406-New-Carli-lower-issue-check-this-out!

No books here @ work for it but the main fuse panel in front of the driver side battery has a 40amp mega fuse about dead center of the rear of the fuse panel right in front of the battery for main HVAC fan, the 2 fuse panels behind each battety are all unmarked and the owners manual doesn't show them either but sorry to say the system is controlled by the BCM or body control module.

Any updates to this project?

I will go back to our weld bay and look at our 2011 Ram 4500 w/6.7 and look and see what system is has, I will look around and see if we have a manual on it as well since I am here @ work until 1:30 am. Give me some time to do some looking.

What year and is it a simple stand alone electrical system yet or computer module controlled HVAC system? Fuses or relays all good? Then check the pressure switches.

My wife and I spent a week in that area over the 4th of July almost 3 years ago, was beautiful sunny and could see the mountains in the distance every day, my relatives said we need to visit more often because that rarely happens to have clear conditions that many days in a row. We spent 2 days on the peninsula and drove through Port Angeles and a day on San Juan island and a couple days in Seattle and down in Portland and to Mt Hood one day as well during the week there.

I use the term "indentured servant" a lot. We are slaves to a government as they take personal property without permission via personal income taxes. Also known as "Legal Plunder". Read the book "The Law" by Frédéric Bastiat, its a real good read. Also like to use the term "Sweat equity" for situations like you are having. I do not miss any of my 3 second gens for that exact reason, always kept one busy with never ending piddly stuff. My 3rd gen is just the opposite, I just drive it and rarely have to work on it in comparison.

Easier to balance the 2 piece steel when its all new but harder when older and worn plus they get to sell more parts and service down the road. A lot of the newer rigs went with long one piece steel which was more rare and or aluminum as the pic shows. The Suburbans have always ran a one piece and they were really long.

Another thing to remember is a steel shaft can be repaired and rebalanced if dented or slightly damaged, an aluminum shaft is scrap at that point.

On my 02 when I was power pulling I had a one piece steel built with heavier tubing and stronger 1480 series yokes at both ends instead of the OEM 1410 IIRC. I think I had about 400-500 into it. Sold it to another puller for the same price years later when I sold the pickup.

What is that big structure in the background? What area of the country is that, looks like Seattle area? Looks nice both the country ad the ride.

You will need to take pics and show me that one, I am at a loss as to where a dial indicator would be used in an nv4500. I have rebuilt a fair share but its been many years ago and I just do not remember using a dial indicator, there is basically nothing to set up in them since they have roller bearings not tapered bearings.

As long as you can get a pry bar under the crank gear and between block and pull up on it with a fair amount of force you will be ok. Since the weight of the crank has already got the oil squeezed out it will actually be a more accurate measurement that way rather than prying it both ways. Why would you need a dial indicator to replace syncros?

The trick we use to see if valves and seats need work is to lay it on one side and fill the ports with diesel or solvent ect and see if and how long it takes for fluid to seep past the valve heads, if it seeps past fairly quick its time for vale and head work, do the same for both sides intake and exh. See if you can borrow a magnetic base dial indicator set before going any further and measure the crank shaft end play before pulling the main bearing caps and crank out since you have a manual it is a good indicator of thrust bearing wear. I see a rod cap missing already too.

Ha Ha!!!! I wonder why there seems to be more showing up in Colorado all the time? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JKv-qF5t2uc#t=33