PilotHouse2500

well that didn't work worth crap. I could see it not engage the ring gear teeth, it just skipped off them. NO reason that I can think of that this shouldn't work between and auto and manual trans ring gear.

Torque converter and Ring gear off.

And finally....

parts are coming in!

cool that is the one I linked from Amazon.

Looking to pick up a good barring tool to work on my 12 valve. Reading reviews just frustrates me and I don't want to waste $40 on cheap junk. Who is the vendor of your choice for this essential tool? Two I was looking at: https://www.amazon.com/gp/cart/view.html?ref_=nav_cart https://www.genosgarage.com/product/tool-ltbt/tools

On Friday I ordered the NV4500 tans! 2-3 weeks for delivery....sadly they don't take an auto as a core anymore. So now I have an auto with under 10k miles on a rebuild, but no documentation since my buddies wife tossed all the paperwork on the rebuild years ago...sigh..

G56 off the table, NV4500 is the choice. Now to get the "extreme" version or the standard?

Money comes in Saturday! Salivating over the trans swap coming! Any final thoughts (prayers accepted) on this? Still kinda debating the G56 vs the NV4500 swap, but cost might drive me to the NV4500 regardless.

Good news is I've decided on a few things and I'm in the midst of a huge kitchen project that will actually let me get the trans bought. I'll be moving the engine back 2-3" to use the stock CAC and buying an aftermarket RAD with electric fans to get things stuffed up front where they belong. I also plan on taking the summer off woodworking so I can get some headway going on this project. SO hopefully come mid May this thread will get more updates than it has in the last year.

Think I have decided to push the engine back 2" to keep things relatively easy. New motor mounts and such are a lot less fiddling around then dealing with creating all new plumbing.

Getting the money together to finally get the manual trans for the project. I know a NV4500 is a pretty easy swap out as it was stock, and I've been in contacts with high-impact.net for the parts. I know the NV5600 entails a bit more of a challenge (a poster had a link to a thread of someone else's swap) so that CAN be done. But I was wondering if anyone has grafted a G56 to a 12 valve 6bt?

sitting on the racking outside the shop waiting for you to pick it up!

oops Oregon not Washington, still want to see if I can hook you two up?

Actually had to cut the frame off to make things fit w/in the front clip of the 50's body. I have to center the wheels on the fenders and that drives where things land. Moving axles and such would be a little to invasive for my level of comfort for a daily driver. Thanks for the inputs. I'm leaning towards leaving the engine where it sits (simplifies a bunch: motor mounts, tanny x-member & mount, axle lengths, etc). I don't plan on pushing him too hard, but I think just going a cross over tube route might just bite me later so I think I'll do a CAC of some sort just in case. I've got room in the fenders to put something.

NICE project, I have a '51 COE after I finish my current build (likely a 6bt repower project). Do you happen to know a "Brent" in WA that is into the bigger old Dodge trucks? I'm sure you two would get along great.

I'm progressing on my streetrod build and am running into space constraints with where the engine sits relative to the 1950's body. I know I CAN move the engine back with new engine and tranny mounts, but would prefer to not go that route. I've already decided to use a different RAD with electric fans in place of the stock fan for space, but need more if I want to not move the power plant. I've got 4" to work with. So a few questions for the great minds than mine leaving the power plant in place and having room for the RAD and AC condenser up front where they belong: 1. I could forego the stock CAC and do a liquid/air cooler and tuck that up under a fender. 2. Drop the CAC all together and just do a crossover tube. Thoughts please?

my shop man door awning (1950 Dodge hood w/ ornament)

thanks. I've got a few plans that it will be near impossible to steal unless you tow it.

After fighting and fighting to get the passenger door to line up right, I called the neighbor. He runs his own hot rod shop and has built MANY over the years. He's been kind enough to help me when I needed for nothing but a beer and a smile. I think he just likes helping me learn. Regardless, he came over and we chatted, and we tried, we got the torch out and bent hinges, and tried...and finally came to the conclusion below. I think he loved the pucker factor I had when I resigned myself to doing the cuts. Also we will likely work on flattening the top of the window to follow the now long flat section of the roof to make it look more pleasing.

Extended cab. 1/2 size suicide rear doors.

Been TOO long since I worked on TODD. Right now in between wood projects so time to grind down some early welds and redo so I'm not embarrassed by them! And cut out all the cross bracing as it's no longer needed and I can now climb around inside w/o being a contortionist!

On review I'm going to pass on the industrial to road conversion. Lots of work (read cash) to convert since many things are designed specifically around a genset vs. a vehicle. Not even the block PN's are the same between the two versions. Oh well. likely could have gotten it for under $1k with low hours...

So I have an opportunity to purchase a Cummins QSB7 industrial engine (from a gen set) for a decent price if the auction doesn't blow up fast. Question is this: can this be used as a swap into a vehicle? What would it take?

been a while...life has again gotten in the way. I hope to spend more hours this winter on the project. removed the cab (glad I figured out this EASY way vs. what I was originally thinking) and gave the frame a degreasing power wash...now at least I won't be full of it head to toe when I work in him.