PilotHouse2500

from block right? thanks much! Just what I needed!

So in my swap out to a manual, I'll need a few measurements to set my cab in the right spot (beyond where I NEED to due to body panel placement). Can anyone give me a quick and dirty measurement for the shifter and transfer case selector from the rear of the BLOCK? thanks!

So in my project, I need to find 5" of space on the front side of the engine. At a minimum that means replacing the fan with electric fan(s). The next big thing I'd need to move to get space are the intercoolers (turbo and tranny), RAD and AC pack. Potentially I can move some of that stuff to the side of the engine behind the head lights. I'm hesitant to relocate the RAD due to it's high need for fresh air. So my question is this: has anyone replaced the stock parts with a more efficient (and smaller) unit? If so, what did you use? any other thoughts?

ok boys....feast your eyes....

yah that's what I was reading

So that being said, I did a quick search and lots of stands that SAY they can handle the 1100 pounds this thing tosses around...reviews say otherwise....any suggestions for a stand good enough to do a rebuild?

yah, at car (truck to me) club meeting last night I talked myself into doing the rebuild myself. Just need a stand for it.

well it IS Cummins and I know we have a premium on our stuff. I have not fired it up, I just pulled it so i can set it on the new(er) frame this weekend so I can start to get the body figured out. It hasn't run for at least 11 years and it DOES leak some oil, so a seal is bad someplace (could be as simple as the pan). I do have a bore scope so I could look inside and see what I see. I was hoping to rebuild and run for decades...I just want to see what it would be to have the work done so I don't have any questions about the engine later in the build or after I'm driving it. That's why I've looked at an estimate for rebuild costs...and the 12K sounds HIGH!

I guess it's a want...I'm building this beast and would like to have everything fixed up so I don't have to tear it apart again in a few years. The shop is the Cummins rebuild center locally here... the engine hasn't run in 12 years...no idea it's condition except it as literally running when they ran it out of diesel and never got back to putting the fuel system back together.

FWIW, the engine is out and (for now) on the floor, but I doubt that would really be that much of the cost.

So, I got my first quote back for rebuild....erf...gut punch...Anyone have a recommendation in Minnesota for a rebuild? The first one back from the local Cummins rebuild is $12k+....or is that about right? Budgets need to know... Sorry in advance if this has already been discussed and I could not find it in a search.

Well it was a busy night last night...I hope I didn't cut anything that can't be replaced as I had to cut a few things (throttle cable, fuel cut off cable and inter cooler lines)to finally free the beast!

well hello from the Cities...we get up there once in a while for Gopher games, hockey of course

I think I know of which town you speak of...mascot of a Beaver? Beautiful country!

one step closer..

I plan on using this truck to tow a trailer for 4 wheelers and also for cabinetry work I do on the side. The slotted and drilled disc will likely get swapped back for a more standard disc,

Well life likes to throw curveballs...a well intentioned neighbor/friend dropped me a Caraigslist add for a 96 that was being parted out thinking I'd look at the tranny for my swap. Well, the tranny was gone, but the frame and axels were still around. Now considering my 94 was used as a plow truck, the front end is RUSTY! Coupla thru holes in the frame even. Long and short of it it: I bought the rolling frame with factory paint on it (at least the front half), rebuilt axles and suspension. The front discs are a bit fancy and might have to get swapped out, but now I don't have to rebuild my axles and I can either sell 'em or keep for spare parts for "someday". Looking to move forward earlier than planned on pulling the engine and setting it on the "new" frame this weekend. So a few pics this week of that and hopefully Saturday of a cleaner frame in the shop. Tell you one thing about these trucks...they like to keep you guessing on what will be an SAE faster or metric! To top it all off for a great weekend of wrenching, a buddy came over and we were "just" going to put another wind on the pull start retract on my plow 4 wheeler...well found out the bendix is shot and I've now spent half a day so far trying to pull the flywheel (with no luck) so I can replace that!

well I drove out and looked at it all. I eneded up buy the whole rolling frame. The frame still has factory paint on it and not near as rusty (light surface rust only) as my 94. Plus both front and rear axles have been rebuilt about a year ago and he has the reciepts.

so I have an oprotunity, likley only today, to get a hold of the parts below for my project, Way better condiditon than all the rusty parts I have. Quick thoughts before 11AM CST? this is comeing off a 96 3500, looking to put on a 94 2500 frame. Dana 60 front axle 3:54 gears, fully rebuilt last summer, every single part was replaced, all lifetime warranty, all 4 balljoints, every tie rod, track bar, axle joints, steering stabilizer shock, drilled and slotted rotors and ceramic pads, rubber brake hoses. And alignment, $500 in new parts, $800 takes the complete axle. Dana 80 Dually axle 3:54 gears, with locker. Drum brakes. $450.

follow my build thread and you can watch over the next few years as I get it all done...sorry won't be much faster than that...money is my driving factor.

well if I don't have an ABS light I won't have any coeds on my dash! It's been done many times on frame swaps I'm sure, I just have to make sure I do it right. As old as this is for ABS I'm sure it's not going to be TOO hard to make it go away.

well I learned how to drive back in the 70's so I should be good. Consider this subject CLOSED. NO ABS in the new build.

so just go back to old school (and remove it all) and know how to drive then?

So, now that I know the module is for the ABS on the truck...I'd really like to hear your thoughts on how well it works before I go through the exercise of finding a way to hook it back up or look for an alternate solution? I remember it was not all that great on my '93 Pontiac compared to more modern versions.

hmmm likely I should keep it then!