PilotHouse2500

After fighting and fighting to get the passenger door to line up right, I called the neighbor. He runs his own hot rod shop and has built MANY over the years. He's been kind enough to help me when I needed for nothing but a beer and a smile. I think he just likes helping me learn. Regardless, he came over and we chatted, and we tried, we got the torch out and bent hinges, and tried...and finally came to the conclusion below. I think he loved the pucker factor I had when I resigned myself to doing the cuts. Also we will likely work on flattening the top of the window to follow the now long flat section of the roof to make it look more pleasing.

Extended cab. 1/2 size suicide rear doors.

Been TOO long since I worked on TODD. Right now in between wood projects so time to grind down some early welds and redo so I'm not embarrassed by them! And cut out all the cross bracing as it's no longer needed and I can now climb around inside w/o being a contortionist!

On review I'm going to pass on the industrial to road conversion. Lots of work (read cash) to convert since many things are designed specifically around a genset vs. a vehicle. Not even the block PN's are the same between the two versions. Oh well. likely could have gotten it for under $1k with low hours...

So I have an opportunity to purchase a Cummins QSB7 industrial engine (from a gen set) for a decent price if the auction doesn't blow up fast. Question is this: can this be used as a swap into a vehicle? What would it take?

been a while...life has again gotten in the way. I hope to spend more hours this winter on the project. removed the cab (glad I figured out this EASY way vs. what I was originally thinking) and gave the frame a degreasing power wash...now at least I won't be full of it head to toe when I work in him.

Torched the springs to get the chassis to sit right (bunch of parts missing that would weigh enough to compress the front suspension). And then the cab mounts got put in. Even with the shop at a "cool" 75°, outside hit near 100° yesterday, it wasn't all that comfortable with the humidity so high, then ad the torch and welding heat!

ok thanks gang, plans this weekend to torch the springs and get the cab mounts welded in. Pics to follow on the build thread.

2500 or 3500 series? if anyone else has a minute or two to measure the upper control arm bolt to the ground I'd appreciate. I'm hoping for a few more to confirm that difference between the front and back pivots points. Thanks (so far) to dripley, 01cummins4eve, BBHD

hmmm some serious differences relative Control arm differences in heights between bolts: one instance is straight up 2", the other 3.25"... pivot link different by 1/2" Pitman approx 1" different. not the consistancy I was hoping for. BBHD, yours is a 4x4 with 6bt?

so to confirm, it seem the control arm measurements say there should be about a 2" difference in height between the two bolts, correct?

Well, the 94 is almost stripped down to nothing, Gotta pull the trany and driveshafts yet for me (trany for core exchange). Then it's pull the axles off for sale and chop the frame up for scrap. Body parts go to the scrap yard tomorrow.

thanks guys, from what I can tell I need to bring the front end down 2". Weekends are never long enough, but when a buddy is in state for a funeral you hang out with the crazy Californian and take him for a ride in your restoration and let him drive!

Thanks! Hoping for a few more from people to get a feel of what averages out as "normal". 1 or 2 more please!

tire size is relative. the measurement at the pivot on the passenger tire will set the reference height so I can adjust the other 3 for what tires I have on the frame. Thanks guys. Hoping to get this adjusted this weekend!

ANYONE?

OK guys need a little help here. Was looking at the body tongiht and getting it lined up when we thought about not having all the all weight on the frame will shift the suspension a bit relative to the frame due to the linkage pivot points. This would explain why some things didn't line up as expected. So I am looking for the following measurements from someone with either a 2500 or 3500 frame/suspension set up (6bt engine and manual tranny if possible!). Please note back where the measurement was taken from to the ground (center of bolt, top/bottom of bolt, joint between members, etc) something I can use as a solid reference. I plan on torching the springs to get it to sit where it should (putting bags in instead on the build). Thanks in advance! Note where the fingers are (should be 4 measurements). 2 pivot bolts on the arm, the pivot on the pitman and the pivot at the passenger wheel

"new" fenders pounded "straight" and installed. Now I can make sure the fender is centered on the wheel and align everything and finish the cab mounts.

hmmm, you might be right....I got a bit cut happy taking it down... oops

I'll have to look tonight, I thought only 2 lines when to this beasty converting to manual...so... not needed for the TC...how are the manual trucks set up?

yah...so again, forgive the ignorance....what does it do besides drip all over since I had to cut the hoses off? I believe it to be part of the trans cooling system? I know it's not on our drawings of the 6bt...

since I've pretty much decided to do the rebuild myself, is there anything on the engine that's not needed that I can remove? Someone, somewhere, some forum said that I could ditch the device (sorry not up on what it is) that lives on the passenger side of the block? See picture.

well hopefully I've got enough room now up front for the intercooler and a new rad (if I can find a thinner one) and put some electric fans on to help assist ---> with the doghouse sitting on the frame now and losing the stock fan I have about 5.5 inches to play with. I still have to deal with the tranny cooler and the AC someplace.

before: and after (in progress, and a 3500 frame) at least the engine is the same:

suicide half rear doors like a modern 1.5 cab