PilotHouse2500

Trans tunnel built, ready to install

keepin' the sparks off the pretty paint!

FLOOR!

Floor supports in Floor fit and ready for beading and then welding in.

It had a little play in it...need to fix the steering box!

prepping for the rest of the floor....and making "vroom vroom" sounds

yep already loose and slidy to figure the firewall placement.

ok, I'll try that this weekend when I have time. Right now the shifter is free sliding on the pivot linkage (I don't want to take anything apart I don't have to, those grommets SUCKED!). It's clean now because it's new...give 50k miles and ask me again!

Thanks for the input guys! The little input lever in the circle, by the manual I think this is in "N". Can anyone confirm before I tighten the lock down and try to shift?

ok, what I thought.....next question? How hard should it be to shift it? I had the TC gone thru by a local shop and they gave it a thumbs up prior to putting this all together. It seems like I'm missing something...don't want to bend/break anything!

more progress....done with the 16ga...rest will be 18ga with some rolled in beads for support.

ok, but can I put the TC into 2L, 4L or 4H w/o the engine on? Right now I have no driveshaft on, clutch installed or a or running engine to dink around with. Does the TC need a signal of any sort be it vacuum or electronic?

one more question...sure JUST one! Should I be able to shift the TC without anything hooked up? I was thinking it would be similar to the trans where you can dink around with it w/o any power to it or anything. If I have the main selector shifter at "N", will the little lever on the TC be straight up vertical? It what the manual sorta shows, but not too clearly. Thanks!

ok cool thanks, kinda figured the part that bolts on for the shifter is above the tunnel.

So in building my truck (getting to building firewall and floor) I'm interested in how much room is needed for the shifter tower (and TC shifter) and gap between the trans and tunnel? Should I place the tunnel flush with the trans as it sits w/o the shifter tower bolted on/ just above the TC shifter bracket top?

got a little further last night after work:

engine firewall intrusion panel built (and forming buck)

I plan a full rebuild and dyno of the engine before I really button things up, regardless the cab will be on and off several times yet.

spent my weekend getting the requisite cuts on my fingers and stabs in as well...but I learned a few things this weekend: Minnesota sports had a good weekend (Wild win, Vikes win, Gopher hockey sweeps the Ugly Helmets, and Gopher football beat Penn to stay undefeated) My air shear handles 16ga no problem My electric nippers handles 16ga no problem My neighbor challenges me every step on this project to take it up one step better (more on that later when I can show a picture) Building a firewall is time consuming 4x8 16ga sheets are HEAVY and cantankerous.

car club meeting last night so tossed a few parts on to show the vision...

with a little help from some friends....

yah I have a small cabinet for parts you can hold in one hand. Way easier than a wire wheel!

TC shifter cleaned, painted and reinstalled. The grommets were a PITA!

quick tape measure last night has both coming out to about 24" from the back of the bellhousing adapter to the mount studs. The cross member has slots, so it'd all be good...if I wasn't moving the engine! Which DOES make sense, altho several other things did change with the swap that could have been made the same.

I'll try to remember to take some measurements tonight to confirm. The swap website mentioned that you might have to move the crossmember when converting.