Hawkez

After installing a new radio/receiver I discovered that I had two speakers that did not work: the speaker in the driver's door and the right-aft speaker. I bought new speakers from Amazon: 2 6"X9" for the front and 2 5.25" for the back. The installation wasn't the "plug-'n-play" that I had hoped for and I couldn't find any information on swapping these speakers and figuring out the wiring took me a minute or two so I thought I'd share what I found. Here is a picture of the front speaker after it was removed, they have an amplifier bolted up to them and hard wired to them. The amp is held on by two bolts. These amps power both the front and the back speakers. To keep the back speakers I had to splice a couple of these wires together, if not you will not get sound to the back. Here is how I did it: Gray and yellow (wires 5 and 10) are the - side that go to the back. I soldered those two wires together. Brown and orange (wires 6 and 9) are the + side and I soldered those two together. White and Green (wires 7 & 8) are for powering the amp and are no longer needed. Red and Black is the amplified signal going to the tweeter. In photo you see that I capped these, but after realizing that the tweeters didn't work I wend in and connected them to the post on the speaker. Tweeters now work. The blue and purple wires (from pins 3 & 4) go to the speaker. I soldered on new legs to add a little more length. The blue wire is the + and the purple is the - side. I capped everything with crimp-caps after soldering them and then taped up the harness. The process is the same for both the left and right side speakers. I was then able to plug it back in and hook up my new speakers. I know I could have ran new and a better quality speaker wire but I had no interest in that. I am just looking for a clear sound. With my two dead speakers I had to crank up the volume just to hear from the passenger side speaker, I now can hear much better and I am happy with the sound. The problem with my speaker in the back wasn't due to a bad speaker, it was a break in the wire where the door hinges. I pulled the rubber flex tube and soldered the two back together. The hardest part of all of this was the getting the door panels off and back on. I bought a package of the plastic door panel fasteners to replace broke or worn out fasteners that came out. I have LOTS of extra and I am willing to share if anyone is in need. Maybe this was all common knowledge to the rest of the dodge world but I thought I'd share anyway.

I don't know much of the speaker world but I do want to replace the two front speakers as one sounds awful. What do I need to know to replace these? I have an aftermarket Kenwood receiver, I'm not looking to share my music with the world, I just want something that sounds clear in the cab. Am I going to have to cut holes in the door panel or are there options to get something similar to the OEM speakers?

I wasn't/am worried about the wire tap messing up the VP, just voiding the warranty. If I put the stealth plate on it would be easy for the rebuilder to tell that the IP's cover had been off and they could deduce that it had been tapped. If someone taps the wire harness going to the VP44 how could a rebuilder tell that it had been tapped? Can they tell?

I changed my VP44 out in February and got one from DAP. Pay attention to the pump that you have and the pump that you buy. If you buy an HO IP and have a SO on your truck you may not get your core charge refunded. To get that core charge you need to turn in the same flavor that you ordered. I have yet to put my stealth cover back on, to be honest it does make me a little nervous to void that warranty. I bought the IP with the 2 year warranty and I may not put it back on until after my warranty is up.

Very cool. Those tail lights look like something out of Mad Max. Looks like Chrysler has had dash issues for a while!

I finally installed my high idle switch today. I put in in the overhead console. The cable that comes with the switch is just a little too short. I ordered a 12" extension from Amazon and I was able to but it right between the lights. It turned out great. I did have to take a dremel to the inside of the overhead console to make room for the circuit card and cable, but that was simple. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004LKASDO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I would agree with looking into the IP, except the WTS light doesn't seem to fit as a symptom of a failing VP44. It would seem odd for an ECM to fail without codes. Since you changed your alternator, have you checked it for AC voltage?

My family spent our day yesterday getting birds ready for Thanksgiving. My boys have been raising these turkeys since August and they finished out really well.

I agree, pretty stupid and what was the point? Just to piss off someone else? Why do people get so excited about making other people mad or upset? It is people like this that cause restrictions and regulations that affect the rest of us. No wonder this country is so divided.

@mopar1973man is right, that information will help you determine your next step. Otherwise you are just guessing. Also, any codes? or any other symptoms/issues? It would also help if we knew the specifics on your truck and any mods you have done to it.

That first sentence is pretty long and confusing. Can you tell us what your truck is? Any mods? You said that you used a scan tool to activate the grid heaters? But then you said you don't have a scan tool? Have you checked for codes? Preferably with a code reader. The only thing wrong, that you can see, is the WTS light doesn't stay illuminated as long as you think it should? Any other symptoms?

Are the IP between the two motors the same? or interchangeable? I'm sure the IP from the '99 is a SO, is that the same for the IP off the '02? Not sure if this could cause your problems though.

I've bought a lot of thing from DAP and haven't had any trouble with them. I hate to see poor customer service. I may have to rethink future purchases.

Mine was doing this a while ago. It was extremely annoying. It wasn't until one day my clutch and brake petal felt like they became mechanically disconnected. I found that the rod that they both sit on had slid out of the support and the assembly was only pivoting on one side. Somehow on of the e-clips that keeps the rod in place had become MIA. I got everything back in place, replaced the clip, and made sure the plastic bushing were there and I haven't had another squeak since. In the pictures you can see the rod shifted to the left and the 2nd picture is of the plastic bushing, the rod is supposed to be through that.

I'll second that.

Dripley posted the link in the one of the comments above.

If it is the front of the engine you can power wash it with some degreaser. My point was to worry more about what is caked on the radiator, but if you recently changed that out you should be good. There used to be a pretty good article on this site on how to modify the breather so it doesn't vent right next to the radiator. I can't find it at the moment, but if I get a chance I'll look again.

You ought to fill out your signature so you we have the specs or your truck. For the 2nd Gens, the crank case breathers are on the front of the engine. In between the fan and block you should see a rubber hose the comes up, bends 180* and then goes down. The earlier models just had an open hose and late they came with a bottle on the end. This just vents oil residue and becomes a magnet for grime. Just use the green stuff for your local pars store. I wouldn't bother with the dealership.

Just a thought, if you are changing the pump and draining the fluid it may also be a good time to pull the radiator and clean it (especially if you haven't done that in a while). If you have the factory crank case breather you likely have a build up of oil, dirt and grime that will restrict cooling. The radiator comes out really easy, the toughest part is draining the fluid and you will already have that done. Just a thought....

Will the clunk not go away if you just turn up the radio?

There is. It is a block that secures to the king pin and has a receiver for the ball. It is just tall and wide enough for the king pin and maybe 6 inches long.

I had a group of birds that I bought from the same hatchery out of Idaho. Out of the 20 that I bought, 6 died in the first 5 weeks. It was really strange. When I noticed that the last one was on her way out I decided to put open it up to look at her organs. The liver was extremely discolored and the heart was small and almost deflated. I don't know what would cause any of this, and I never had any other issues like this from other birds from this hatchery. I assume I got a few that had bad genetics. It can be frustrating when your birds seem to die for no reason and nothing you can do about it.

Get under the hood with a flash light and look for any fitting that looks damp. I recently had a hard start issue and I finally found that my needle valve was to blame. The nut on top of the valve was weeping just a tad, enough to make it lose prime. It doesn't take too much.

I'm happy to take your order although shipping may be difficult.

I recently sold my fifth wheel with the Anderson adapter. I never had any issues with it and I would recommend it. I would suggest getting the safety chains to go along with it. This set up doesn't add leverage to the king pin as the coupling all takes place at the same spot. Light weight and easy to install.