Hawkez

Pictures are always a PLUS. What did you decide to do about the wire tap on your new VP44? If I remember correctly, DAP sold a pump that allowed for a tap and a 1 year warranty, but it was a little more money.

You ought to take some pictures and post it here for future reference.

Nope, even with the CEL out the codes don't clear. It is not the lamp that is out...it comes on when I turn the key and my OBD scan tool shows that codes and also recognizes that the MIL is not illuminated. Does anyone know if can read the MAP sensor voltage with the OBDLink?

My truck is due for emissions so I removed my edge comp. When I started the truck the CEL came on and I have a P0237 code. It will not clear. I plugged the factory MAP sensor plug into the sensor and no change. I drove it around and it it runs and drives fine, no smoke. After driving it a bit the CEL went out but the code is still there (both pending and confirmed). I pulled up the "Intake Manifold Absolute Pressure" pid on my scan tool and that value seems accurate and responds to driving. I am going to go out and see if I can determine the voltage...maybe pull the MAP sensor. Any other ideas?

It looks like Big Foot was sighted in Idaho, an now he has become a danger to the public. http://www.ksl.com/?sid=43642524&nid=711

That picture could be of an alien autopsy. I can't figure out what you're taking a picture of. Sorry, I'm no help.

I would absolutely flush it first. If you were to put new calipers in the system and flush debris into the piston, you could end up with the same problems that you have now. An extra bottle of brake fluid is cheaper than brake parts.

Your calipers could be full of debris and other garbage. Make sure to bleed the system really well and rebuild the calipers or replace them. Don't bleed the system after you put to calipers on you run the risk of flush debris back into the calipers.

How far do you open the needle valve for your fuel pressure gauge. Like was said above, it doesn't need to be opened much. Mine is also just barely cracked open, if I open it too much more it will bounce around.

I'm not the expert, but with the engine out I would replace the rubber washers on the fuel return line at the back of the head and the T fittings. I would also consider pulling the injectors and having them pop tested or replaced. You could do all of this while the motor is in the truck, but it would be easier before the install.

.02 Vac is good. Can't say why it went bad other than it is a 25 year old obsolete computer that is subject to high heat and vibrations.

My truck left me stranded the same way. My VP44 died on me, no warning signs--just died. Check for error codes that will get you going in the right direction.

I got mine VP44 through DAP last year. Just make sure the core that you send in is the same flavor as the one they send you or you could be out your core deposit.

The entire console is very easy to remove. There aren't any screws holding it in. There are to snaps that hold it in place, once those are loose you can slide either aft or forward (can't remember which) and it comes right out. Maybe easier to replace that door with the console out...maybe not.

This? https://www.amazon.com/Overhead-Console-Sunglass-Holder-SN96TL2AA/dp/B01N9KANC7/ref=pd_sbs_263_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=SRZ034B1PNYYWA8TKRAK

I bought the kit with new brushes and contacts, however, my brushes looked great so I opted to not install the new brushes. My contacts were garbage and needed to be replaced. I couldn't bring myself to buying a new or rebuilt starter so I went with LarryB's. A buddy of mine rebuilt his with Geno's kit and I believe you can find rebuild kits at Oriellys. If you have 175K miles on it, your starter is due. You may not be having problems now, but you will eventually and it won't happen anywhere convenient.

I would suggest some preventative maintenance on that starter if it is the original starter and you have 100K on the truck. For the 45 minute job and $30 worth of contacts it is super easy to pull the starter, replace the contacts and be good to go for another 100K...I wish I would have done that before it left me stranded.

Disconnecting the battery will not clear codes. Certain codes (I thing they are referred to as "permanent") will only clear after they system has operated OK for a certain time. The code reader will point our if they are permanent or not.

This will be a great GPS. I've had a Garmin for YEARS and used to sell them. MoparMan's GPSV is on old unit, I remember when they were new and top of the line; full of the latest and greatest features. Even though the technology and features will soon be antiquated they will continue to work just as they should. If you are looking for something just to track how many miles you are going there are cheaper units. But the features on this will be nice for your back country outings.

This is what I use. There are a couple of different versions, but this one will allow me to read from GM, Ford and Dodge. It is very easy to use and plugs right in to your OBD port and connects to a smart device via Bluetooth. https://www.amazon.com/ScanTool-426101-OBDLink-Bluetooth-Professional/dp/B006NZTZLQ

Some codes will not clear until the system has operated in a "OK" state for so many miles or a certain amount of time. Have you tried clearing whatever code is stored?

MIne also remembers the vehicle. I didn't have to turn anything on. The only time I had to re-enter my vehicles information is when I removed and then reinstalled the app on my phone.

Why not just disconnect power to that circuitry? I didn't know there was any power going to the passengers seatbelt.

Good tools make a HUGE difference. I have been slowly adding to my tool box...of course that gets super expensive fast.

Since you changed your VP44 has the problem gotten worse or changed in any way. You could "hot wire" the IP when the engine is warm to see if the problem continues. This is powering the VP44 from the battery, it will take other wiring and the ECM out of the equation and it will help you determine if you have a bad IP. If the problem does persist when it is hot wired all things point to a faulty IP.