Hawkez

How are the stealing them? and why do they need another vehicle to steal them?

what is the yellow stuff?

You don't mention anything about a fuel pressure gauge. You really ought to have the capability of reading fuel pressure from inside the cab. Your VP44 really needs to see 14PSI and higher and a low pressure warning light will not do you much good as pressure between idle and WOT can drastically change. Before you change your alternator you ought to see how much AC voltage it is putting our. There are A LOT of posts about doing this on this site. @Mopar1973Man has a great video that could be useful to you. I am hoping that it isn't the IP, but if it is, you are going to want to look into what is causing them to fail. AC voltage from the alternator? Poor FP from the LP? Anyway, welcome to the site and you will certainly find a plethora of information for those that frequent here.

Thank you very much. Is it pretty common to find?

Anyone have more jack stands in use than this?

Is it best to measure the pressure post or pre filter?

Thanks for the link. How about a picture of it installed? I really like this idea, I would also like to add a drain line option with a valve, that would make changing the fluid much quicker.

Thanks for the link. How about a picture of it installed? I really like this idea, I would also like to add a drain line option with a valve, that would make changing the fluid much quicker.

I've bought from Vulcan and DAP and I've never had an issue with either. Both very good to deal with.

If I remember correctly, DAP has a package deal for an IP and a new lift pump. I can't pull up DAP's page but I think it was a pretty good deal. I don't have any of the specifics on which pump it was, but maybe something to look into. It may save you some money now.

I have a weeping connection where my needle valve goes into a Tee. Is there something I can put on the treads to seal that? It is just enough that if it sits for anytime I have to bump the starter to prime the system? I have tightened it down as much as I'd like, anymore and something will give.

Isn't there are port on top of the Oil filter housing that you could tap into to get oil pressure?

When my vp44 died on me last spring I had to have the truck towed home. I asked the tow truck driver if his winch would strain to pull my truck up and he had no worries. He said he could pull a Hummer with a parking brake set and steering wheel locked up into his bed with no troubles. No reason to even have to get into the cab.

Going the mechanical route would be easy. There are a lot of commercially available items, like the club. There are also item that lock the steering wheel to the clutch or brake pedal. The would certainly make it more difficult, but not impossible to steel. It would be nice to find something that would cause a delinquent to panic and run away. Anyone patient enough, with enough time can cut through a mechanical lock-out...also, how easily are these booby-traps to set. Once it becomes too time consuming to set and unset each time a person will become complacent and quit setting them.

Not sure anything has been shared that would defeat the purpose of an anti theft device/switch. The key to making the anti-device work would be to making it accessible to authorized drives but hidden & difficult to find by those that are more nefarious. Obviously sharing ideas of how someone could accomplish this is the purpose of this forum, however, when I install one on my truck I don't plan on sharing the details of inside the cab...

I went out and took pictures of where you can access this wire and posted it in the topic linked below. It is the ninth comment in the topic.

Looking at the schematics in the FSM, pin 87 at the Fuel Pump Relay in the PDC is the signal that tells the IP to run. Following this wire, it leaves the PDC and there is a connection at the back of the engine, C125. Pin 7 in this connector is this signal. It is a Red and Greed wire. It would be just a matter of interrupting that wire with a switch that you could put anywhere. I assume that if you did this and didn't have the switch in the "run" position and tried to start the truck it would throw a code as the ECM is unable to communicate with the IP, but maybe not. Here are some pictures. The pages in the FSM that I followed were 8W-10-5, 8W-10-12, 8W-80-8, 8W-80-9, and 8W-90-8

@TFaoro, sorry to hear about the truck. It's too bad that these things happen, I'll keep my eyes open on classified sections in my area. Situations like this sure make me paranoid. My truck would be pretty easy to steal, I have two spare keys inside it...I may need to rethink that and come up with a switch that would make it more difficult to start up and drive off with.

The description says that it is for leather or cloth seats.

But what is involved in removing the upholstery to get the cushion in and out?

Has anyone replaced the seat cushion in their truck? Mine is pretty wore out, but I hate to spend the $125 just to realize that I don't have the right skills or tools to replace it. https://www.genosgarage.com/product/dodge-ram-replacement-driver-seat-cushion-gg-sc9801/new-products

I went with the fuel boss. I liked it for many reasons. One is because my OEM Carter pump was still working fine and if something ever did happen to the fuel boss and it quit working the stock pump would kick in and get me home. It is kind of a redundant system. A lot of people run bigger diameter fuel line from the tank so that there is less drop in FP, especially at WOT. I installed GDP's 3/8's line, but that is only from where the stock hard line ends below the driver's seat. With the Fuel Boss, I don't see a difference in FP from idle to WOT. My pressure is consistently 16 PSI.

Why the extra grounds? Did you splice in the ECM's wiring? Also, you may want to throw a volt meter on the alternator and check for AC voltage. At the top of the site's page, you should see the ARTICLES tab. Click on that and you should be able to navigate to the different sections of information.

Also what type of mods or electrical "fixes" have been done. I would be suspicions of corrosion, especially on poorly spliced wires.

I think I saw that movie before. . It sucks when things go wrong and you are left up crap creek.