Hawkez

I have a cheap Radio Shack meter, less than $30, and it reads AC noise just fine. It is less user friendly than my Fluke, but it does work.

You should see some AC volts. Make sure the DVM is set up to see .000 VAC. Check out the video in this thread, Mopar Man just updated it and it will help you see what you should see.

I think a lot of people get nervous when testing anything related to the electrical system and a DVM just complicates things even more. A simple video in would go a long way for some people and allow them to see how simple it is to test for AC noise. I've worked electronics on F16s for a lot of years and a lot of people can't wrap their minds around the electrical world but they can be geniuses in others.

Nice to see another Utahan. I live not too far north from you and work on base. Welcome to the site.

Didn't you just replace this recently?

Your pump should have came with a new overflow valve. You can do a hot wire test on your VP44, it is really easy, but since you have disconnected your fuel lines it may complicate things. http://www.bluechipdiesel.com/vp44_diagnostics.html This test takes everything but the VP44 out of the equation. I'd be surprised if that lift pump from napa provided adequate pressure, I'm sure the guy behind the counter told you his was good enough, but I doubt that. I run a mechanical pump and my pressures, as I can read them from the cab, are constant.

How are you measuring your fuel pressure? Do you have a gauge in the cap that you can monitor the pressure at idle and WOT? Some IP rebuilder will not warrantee a VP44 if you are using the stock pump...take that for what it is worth. Also, go through and make sure all of your electrical connections are tight. There was a guy on here a week or so ago that at stuttering issues and it turns out his battery connections were loose. It would be a good idea to make sure that your filter is good and not plugged and that your fuel is good, no water.

I know this is way out there...but I didn't realize this was a problem. This has got to be one of the most uncomfortable videos that I have ever watched. http://www.huffingtonpost.com/entry/lick-your-cat-licki_us_574d21abe4b055bb1172936f

Have you tried to put your temp control to cold to see if you still get the vapor?

I have never bought a trailer from a dealer but I imagine that they would let you run up each system before you make a purchase? Right? If you found something you like, whether it be at a dealer or private, I would run up each system. Spend on hour or so making sure it all works. Ask spray the sides and roof with water. I am sure that this wouldn't catch everything, but it would make me feel better. Maybe go RV shopping during a heavy rain. I just sold my fifth wheel and I spent an hour with the new owner and ran up everything. I showed him how everything worked (this was his first trailer).

Good to hear you figured it out. It is funny how the simplest of problems are overlooked. I've been there too.

Get everything tight and then work through the system. Make sure you LP is running, make sure your filter canister is full. Also, I once had connection issues with my OBD Link, it was because I was not pressing the sync button on the stupid thing. Good luck.

Anti freeze may not be as difficult to get rid of as you think. Our local county dump will take it for free. Usually before I do a flush I save up a few milk jugs. It really is quite simple. I would HIGHLY recommend pulling your radiator and cleaning that as well. Once you have the coolant out, the the rest of the removal is simple. I didn't do this on my first flush and have less than 5,000 miles I was having overheating issues. In the end I had to dump the coolant AGAIN to pull the radiator and wash it. Use the green stuff, mix it 50/50, that will be a good time to check your hoses. Remember, when opening the drain on the bottom of the radiator, it only turns out a quarter or a half a turn and then you pull it. That will open the drain. Don't crank on it thinking it will unscrew all the way. Good luck.

I found a used kiddie pool that was big enough for the radiator. I then lined it with black plastic so I could pull the degreaser and water against radiator. (It would have taken too much degreaser to fill the kiddie pool. I let the radiator soak and then I used a pressure washer on the radiator. I had it set to a wide fan spray and it never bent any of the fins. It came out really clean. I would do it this way again...then reroute your crank case breather.

I used to use Hoppes until last year. I was having trouble getting my 7MM-08 group. I cleaned religiously after every time at the range. I always cleaned until the patches came out looking clean. After some inspecting I noticed this copper fouling through the barrel. Hoppes wouldn't touch it. After some research, I settled on Sweets 7.62 and Butch's Bore shine. After some time with those the barrel came out clean and I got the gun shoot tight groups. I always clean with brass brushes, never dip the brush in your solvent. After scrubbing with the brush I clean the brush off with carb cleaner. No sense sending a dirty brush down a barrel. I push the rod from the chamber to the muzzle, I always use a bore guide. I use jags rather than the loops With Butch's and Sweets I always clean until there is no more blue color on the patch. But all of this is just my simple opinion and I am satisfied with the results.

That is something to look at. Were the nuts very loose?

I'm not sure what could be causing this. I wouldn't throw a VP44 at it until I checked a few more things. I would thing that you would most likely have a code thrown if your IP was on its way out....but maybe not. You could have your injectors pop tested. If they are original it may not be a bad idea to assess their health. I would changed out the fuel filter, dumb the canister in a glass jar to get a look at it. I know you said it is new, but maybe you got a bad tank of fuel on you last fill up. I would also throw an air filter at it and make sure that nothing is restricting air flow. What gauge are you using to measure fuel pressure?

Just another thought... How much fuel is in the truck? Does this only happen as the fuel gets lower?

Do you see this at idle as well? How many miles are on the truck? Are they the original injectors? I wonder if you could be sucking air from a bad connection. Do you ever have signs of leaking connectors or a cracked line?

I would suspect bad fuel. How is your fuel filter? What type of air filter do you have? How does it look? Are you saying that when it is stuttering like that your FP is between 12 and 15 PSI? What mods are add ons have you done to the truck?

I think my next fluid change I may go with a similar set up as you Dripley.

I use the same oil that you do and I don't have coolers or a filter. The FAST coolers to interest me, but I don't have anything yet. I overfilled mine with an extra quart. I filled it from the top. For me, a temp gauge would be of more value than a filter.

This is a mirror image, either taken this way or flipped afterward.

That looks really good. What the length or your wires from the sensor to the gauge adequate or did you have to add in wire?

Does the block your view of the speedometer?