Hawkez

I don't know about them being VIN locked, but I am sure someone on here will chime in with the correct answer.

You said this is your 3rd Ram, can you use the ECM out of any of those for troubleshooting?

Go with what you are comfortable with. If you are set on buying new I would suggest walking through lots of trailers just to get a feel of different floor plans. This may help you decide on what you like and dislike. Post pictures of what you buy to make the rest of us jealous.

Welcome to the forum and that is a great looking truck. If you suspect an issue with your ABS you ought to have the codes ran...I know that isn't easy or free, but that may get you on the right track. There has been discussion on here about a place in Idaho that can rebuild those ABS modules if that is what is needed. Understanding the codes may get you pointed in the right direction. Have you checked for regular engine codes?

My rear brakes are really grabby as well. I only notice it at real slow speeds and before things have warmed up.

as long as you are sure that it is just dented and not punctured.

I flipped the axles on a trailer we had years ago and the Fifth wheel that we have now has flipped axles. I have never had any issues with them. It gives more clearance to your trailer. I would ask who flipped them and double check the work to make sure it is quality.

I can't speak to those specific units. But I have owned a few and each time I have bought one I have insisted on having an outside shower and an awning. We use our outside shower quite a bit, especially with kids.

Has anyone rebuilt one? I would like to try to rebuild mine so I have been on the interwebbs looking for parts. Is it necessary to replace the rectifier? I feel like I should because I am in there anyway? Right? Anyway, I have found parts on Larry B's but their recitifier is out of stock and it is $40 more than other places I have found. This is what I am looking at, any thoughts? http://www.aspwholesale.com/rectifier-nd-p1375.html http://www.aspwholesale.com/repair-kit-nd-er/if-136a-p6046.html

an hour and a half? I think it took me that long just to get the new pump installed. I was so worried that I wasn't getting the key lined up.

I wasn't about to say it was a typo or wrong...I'm not qualified for that. But it was easy enough to see what I needed to remove to get the pump out.

I used the article for my install. I did notice that you have notes in there that lines 1,2, and 5 are the only ones that need to come out, but 1,2, and 4 come out and 5 stays in. Is it possible that the earlier 2nd gens routed their hard lines slightly different than the later years?

I replaced my VP44 yesterday and the truck is running fine. That was my first time changing one...hopefully my last...and I am not as quick as others on here that say they can swap one out in 3 hours. It is all done...now I think I'll rebuild my alternator.

This article was a huge help. I would make one correction, the notes say that fuel lines 1, 2, and 5 only need to come out, but that I think you mean 1,2, and 4. In my truck 1,2,4 come out connected. But this was a great reference.

My pump should be here this afternoon and then I'll put it in on Monday.

Sounds like you have done quite a bit to it. You ought to take it out and enjoy it.

Is that offer open to anyone?

I really like the set up that you have and I would like to do something similar. One day...

Sorry Michael, I was suggesting that the OP have one.

An electric gauge won't show pressure during starting. You'd need a mechanical gauge for that.

Sounds like you need to verify it with another gauge. This is the reason that I would like put a test port in to connect to a test gauge. That would take the wonder out of it.

It would make a great thread to have people post pictures of their shadiest repairs; showing us what is held together by duct tape and bailing twine.

I appreciate it, Dripley. Your insight has always been helpful to me.

Thank you Sir!!

don't confuse me now, I already ordered a pump