Hawkez

Probably. I had as break pad fail on me on time. The pad came a part and the metal rivet was left grinding against my rotor. It left a nice grove.

Maybe this thread will help you a bit. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/topic/10555-trailer-light-issue/

Have you inspected your brakes? Does the sound change with brake pressure?

Are the 12v mechanical pumps on the block? So they are pulling fuel that distance, correct. Do the 12V have the same fuel pump issues? I understand that DTT and Fuel Boss are minorities in the market, but I have yet to hear of one failing. I talked to one guy that had over 150K on one pump. My fuel boss has been great, but I understand that some people don't like them. I have heard of people priming them with a drill, not sure I could attach a drill to mine, there isn't much room. I had some priming issues after I changed my injectors, but the stock-block pump served me well. I do get a little oil seepage from where it connect to the oil pan, not enough to register on the dip stick, but it is always there if I wife my finger on in.

Not all new fuel lines. If I remember right, mine came with new that connected to the hard line coming from the tank under the driver's floor board. From there it splits and goes to the stock pump (if it located on the block) and to the Fuel Boss. From the fuel boss to the filter housing. I opted to buy and install the Big Line kit form GDP so that improved the line leaving the filter housing and going to the IP. It does come with enough 3/8" fuel line to go from the pressure regulator (that you install) back to the filler neck at the tank (you will have to install a T to allow for this return, all of this is included with the tank).

I haven't had any issues with my fuel boss. Constant STEADY pressure.

can you not rig you pump to run off the generator?

I just ran over to DAP and they do still rent Smarty's. He was nice enough to enable High Idle on my truck while I was there.

wow, that is quite the price difference.

It really isn't too difficult. I did mine without pulling the radiator, but I wouldn't recommend that. I was trying to keep it simpler and cheaper. I spent more time trying to remove the fan with the radiator in than I should have. Even worse, I had to pull the radiator a few months later because it was dirty and no cooling. I could have seen that months earlier. It comes our way to easy to fight with it still installed. I also fab'd one up, didn't want to pay the money for something I could make.

I've never seen the appeal to use RV antifreeze. It take 10 minutes to blow out the lines with my air compressor and I've never had any issues. I do add a bit of anti freeze down the drains, but that is it.

Thanks for the education on the subject. I have no need for one, I don't have any fuel pressure issues and I can run the tank down pretty low. I was just wondering what the hoop la was about.

Seems like a lot of red flags in this post. My experience when adds are written like this there is always a scam involved. I have posted adds online quite a bit and I usually get a text or email with someone that doesn't use any punctuation offering more than full price and all I have to do is wire him the excess money. If you are interested, give him a call and ask the questions. It should be pretty easy to see if it is smoke he is blowing. He may be a very nice and honest guy.

So why a draw straw? Why do you recommend that people install them? I don't have on in my truck, what would I have to gain? Sorry if the questions seems naïve, I have always wondered but never asked.

For all those that served or are still serving, thank you. We will all be forever indebted to the sacrifice of or veterans and their families. How about a sound off for those that served. What branch? What was/is your specialty? Where have you served? For me, I am going on 18 years in the Air Force. I started out looking for school money and then I guess I forgot to get out. Most of my career was spent working F-16 Avionics. I have served twice in Iraq, once in Afghanistan and made three trips to Korea (Osan and Kunsan). And then there are the many other places that I have visited that have really made me appreciate my job, like Key West, FL (man, that was tough duty). I have never been on any front line with my job, the most combat I have ever seen were the occasional mortar or RPG that buzzed over head. I will always be grateful to those that willingly served on that line. God Bless the USA and its servicemen and women.

Hopefully you are able to get pictures loaded, I'd be interested in seeing them. Has anyone written an article on rebuilding an alternator?

How often do you guys clean your chimney? Do you sweep it or burn a chemical log?

Just a funny story. I would love to see people freak out if this were tried today. Maybe sometimes the old ways are better.

With the ties that this site has to Idaho I thought this too good to not share. http://www.ksl.com/?sid=37110458&nid=1288&title=newly-discovered-video-shows-beavers-parachuting-in-idaho&s_cid=queue-11

Happy Birthday. Hopefully you can take the time to enjoy the day.

Oops, I missed that. Thanks for the correction.

It may be a good idea to check your fuel pressure with a second source. There plenty of stories of people thinking their pressure is low so the adjust their pump to increase pressure. Many of these people find they are adding too much pressure and their gauge was off the whole time. There are several ways to set up a fuel pressure guage, the big thing is to protect against water hammering. I use a needle valve , others have a snubber. Which guage do you have? Electric or mechanical? Just want to make sure that you are chasing the correct problem.

My light comes on from time to time and I have thought of checking resistance to determine the culprit. But I don't know where to start. I'll figure it out and we'll get it posted.

What's the resistance that you should see on a good sensor?