dracozny

^This^ The plastic is poly-carbonate and for whatever reason Chrysler has a habit of using the cheapest option for poly-carbonate instead of using the Makrolon (UV protectant) infused type. Poly-carbonate is a very porous plastic the edges of the pores will oxidize under UV rays causing the haze you see. Using clear coat of some sort fills the pores and protects the plastic. Keep an eye out for the occasional rock chips in the coating. Just buff it and recoat otherwise it will start to haze where it chipped. As far as the sports. don't run both filaments on each light (bright box). One of these days I will take a photo so you can see the damage that has caused to the reflectors.

unfortunately that line is often nonexistent, but yes I do that when possible. I also flip my high beams on if I'm not likely to blind anybody but the offending driver.

Exactly, if only the cops here would enforce the law on headlights, those friggin hid kits have blinded me so many times now it's a miracle I have avoided so many accidents.

pin 3 would equal your high beam pin 2 and 4 are grounds pin 1 is low beam

I'm not sure exactly where I got my sport headlights from but I would suggest against running high and low simultaneously (when the high beam is on) like I did, the high beam reflector is completely roasted above the bulb after a couple years of running.

My battery gauge will stick causing this on startup. if it stays that way too long I just flick the plexi-glass and it moves to a normal range.

other way around. when high is on, the low beam stays on. pin 30 is the output on both relays.

I'm actually a bit confused by your diagram, since I do not have fogs I'm not sure how much help I will be, but this is my diagram for a harness I built myself. I use all 5 pins on the low beam relay in order to illuminate both high and low of both bulbs at the same time. I originally designed it to use HIDs. so substitute the pins to the bulbs as needed.

Just like Batteries, Many of your off brand products are made by the Bigger names. The Dealer I get my tires from tells me what the parent company is all the time.

most things are these days.

On the stock motor the Bearings are made from a form of Bearing grade Bronze. The lubrication qualities do dissipate over time. I got an extra month out of mine by opening it up and cleaning the brush contacts and the bearing. The brushes are most likely shot which will cause it to drag just like a bad bearing. Oreiley's carries: Murray Climate Control - Blower Motor Part # PM3788 Limited Lifetime Warranty $47 here in my area.

I can fit a medium dog in mine at this point.

all I know is I can watch all youtube videos normally, click on yours I get a loading screen forever. click on the "watch on youtube" button and I get This video is private. Sorry about that.

I think I recall running into that when i first dabbled with this. ground switching has it's quirks. one of my relays died and it created an unusual effect with the high beams.

video set to private, so it won't load

I set mine up two power on both lights from the driver side pigtail. since it's only sending enough voltage to close the relay it's not straining the fuse or switch and a whole lot simpler to troubleshoot. that aside your passenger side fuse is probably shot.

I have autometers and the pyrometer likes to jam itself up especially on cold mornings. I have a glowshift FP gauge and it has worked flawlessly for the last 5 years.

are your battery lugs making good contact? ohm meter the terminal to the lug to be sure. one of my lugs on the passenger side is a bit worn out and makes poor contact every so often causing the exact same problems you are having.

seems Cooper 285/75/16 is becoming popular, I switched to these as well from the 255/85/16's that I was running for the last 3 years.

as cold as it has been the last month or so I have been trickle charging my batteries overnight every other week. normally you can get away with every 6 months to a year in warmer climates.

doesnt matter, with the raptor 150 it is highly recommended to install a draw straw. the stock lines are too small to push 150 GPM I believe the feed is near the middle close to the driver side though.

i have a long bed regular cab and I was unable to find a suitable spot inside the frame rail.... no filter since its a raptor so I wasn't as worried about the exposure.

that confirms my suspicions then the aftermarket sports I have use a 9007 low and 9004 high, backwards from the OEM.

they have that as well, perhaps not in the color set you were looking at but the gauge i bought from them is 0 - 30 psi fyi

use a snubber or a needle valve just barely cracked open it will reduce the jumping you are seeing.