IW378

This post just made my day. I'm glad your back up and running and a forum member helped you out. Good people are few and far between.Luke

You didn't by chance take a picture of your tweak spring did you? I'd like to do that but it's a pain to get to and only wanna do it once. My PSI is 16 at idle and 14 at WOT and I'm running a 17 pound spring on an ad 100. Luke

When I got my truck it came with a volair cai. I'd like to change it to a bhaf so I need the tube that goes from the turbo to the filter. Is this a dealer item ??

Thanks Jag. I'll start peeping around for the stuff I need. Does it matter if the ball valves are brass or stainless?Luke

got it done today. I used a couple pairs of vise grips with tape on the jaws to gently squeeze the hoses flatish.Anyways where did you get the ball valves from and how did you couple the fuel hoses to them. I want to get all the parts together for the next time I do a filter change.

Por 15 is good stuff. You dont have to get the whole under side blasted though. If it was mine I'd get a couple quarts of por 15 and some of the prep compound. Just clean the effected areas with a wire wheel on a grinder apply the cleaning acid per directions and apply the paint with a brush.Luke

Last time I replaced the fuel filter on my air dog 100 I lost alot of fuel. What do you guys do to make it easier to change the filter. Put a clamp on the hoses ?? When I'm at it I have a 17 pound spring to put in as well.Just looking for tips so I don't lose a few gallons of fuel like I did last time:banghead:

Moparman stated in one of his articles that if a vacume line is left disconnected the vacume pump will act like a compresser pumping air into your crankcase. Check vacume lines??

Nice. Another cracked 53 block ex owner. Glad you found another block.

OK. it was leaking from the gasket that goes in between the vacume pump and the timing cover. Yanked the vac pump and the power steering pump of as a unit this afternoon and put it on the bench. just waiting on the rebuild kit from geno's. Anyways while I was taking this mess off I noticed that the bracket that supports the p.s pump to the block was not there? Where can I get another bracket ?Luke

AIRDOG. If you look up posts that I have made you can check out how I installed mine. If you need more pics let me know.Luke

Anyways I got my truck back a few weeks ago after getting a new block to replace the cracked 53. There was a small oil leak where the stock lift pump bolts to a plate on the side of the block. Fixed that. Then the o ring for the crank sensor was discovered have a leak as well so that was fixed. Got it back from the mech and put a few hundred miles on her and I have now discovered by laying underneath the truck while it was running that I have a leak in the vicinity of the vacume pump. I'll try to get some pics up here tomorrow. I can see oil gathering at the bottom edge of where the vac pump meets the block. :banghead:.

Got my truck back yesterday from the shop. Boy Howdy !! it sure feels great knowing that I am a past having a cracked 53 block. After not having my dodge for 1 month I was smiling like a kid at Christmas driving it home.:hyper:

I would assume once an adjuster deems a vehicle totaled it will have a salvaged title. Not that big of a deal if you plan on keeping it. Just keep your receipts on the repairs in case you want to sell it later. Ins companies will often total an older vehicle with not alot of damage just cause it's not in Their best interest to pay for the repairs.

I'll add another thing to check. Have a look see at the block to find out if it's a 53 or not.

Well here's the deal. I live in california so naturally everything is more money. I checked a few other places and the 8 g was right about middle of the road. for the 8 g I will get a new block, pistons, rings, gaskets etc machine work, head redone all put back together and installed etc.One place wanted 7500 for less work. remaned short block and my stuff installed with no head work. another place wanted 9500 just for a long block not including labor, another 2 grand. Cummins did not want to deal with me. So I'll keep you posted when I get my truck backLuke

Well anyways, my 53 block has been cracked for a couple of years now and growing steadily.Iv'e been shopping around and here is what I think I will do. my truck has 140,000 miles on itso I think the best route to take is to get a new block and have all my stuff put on it.The mech said they will do the head and do anything needed while it is in the shop. I just wanna do it once and do it right. Looking at right at 8 grand does this sound like a good number ?? I do not want to put a junkyard engine in my baby.Luke

Awhile back I noticed some atf on the bottom of my truck just above the front u joint of the rear driveshaft. Anyways last weekend I replaced the output shaft seal by removing the rear driveline, tried to pry the seal out to no avail so I removed the extention and smacked it out from the front end, no biggie. Installed new seal, then the driveline, filled up the transfer case and called it good. I cleaned up the previuosly leaked fluid from the underbody. Now there is fresh fluid there so I am sure it is still leaking. The sliding yoke did not feel like it had any abrasions where it rides on the seal ?? My t case says its a model 242 but the dude at the parts house said the one I need was for a 241?? I measured them with a caliper and it seemed to be the one. Why is it still leaking ??:banghead:

Thanks for the tips. On Sunday I gave my rig some love by giving it an oil change and valve adjustment.Anyways the negative lead on the passenger side battery was loose. I cleaned the terminals and snugged 'em up good and tight and no more gear hunting as of today. Could a loose negative terminal really cause the shifting problems?? Today while on the freeway I kept her between 48 and 55 mph where the tranny would normally spaz out and now it works properly.Luke

Thanks Fellas, I do not have any codes showing up on the scan tool. I might try the recalibrate first before I throw money at her. What should I work on first if the recalibrate doesn't do the trick ?Luke

Long story short. For a few weeks now my tranny seems to have a problem making up its mindwhat gear it wants to be in. This only happens at speeds around 50 mph and it shifts repeatidly from od back to 4th then back to od again. I do have 35 inch bfg's on it but do not ever recall it doing this.Any suggestions?? Luke

Yes Sir. 720 is correct. My bad. Anyways I picked one up for 18 bucks at napa. Problem solved. I did however notice there was fine shavings on the tip of the one I pulled out. Maybe these shavings were interfering with the operation of the old one? Luke

So anyways I fired up my rig this morning to go help my buddy put a lift kit on his rig. About a mile from my house the check engine light came on:banghead: it was bugging me all day. Got home and scanned it and it is a p07020. Output speed sensor is what it said. Where is it at and is it an easy fix. Can I get this part at NAPA. ????Thanks in advance.Luke

When I turn on my heater I think I can smell bit of antifreeze. I'm thinking I need to get into looking at replacing the core. Is there any way I can tell if the core is bad without taking out the dash and messing with the A.C. ?? Have any of you fellas replaced one and how much of a pain is it to do..Luke

I'm a newb to this stuff but from what I have gathered above 10 is good. With my stock pump and filter my pressure was at around 12 at idle and dropped to less than 10 under a good load. I feel more comfortable with my new setup. Idle at above 15 and about 14 under load.