Me78569

My guess is if it stays at %20 while at cruise your tire size is not perfectly correct. Try adjusting up or down the size to see if you can get it to %0 while cruising

slip i calculated by looking at output speed input rpm and a best guess as to what gear you are in. did you setup your vehicle settings in the app to tell it what rear end / tire size / trans? the sensor is likely not good if it is stuck reading 65 psi all the time.

I would guess you would do 220-230 whp rather than the typical 190-200 hp

Don't trust the butt dyno Here are 2 runs, same stretch of road one tune that was overfueled on that was %100 smoke free. You can see the huge amount of fuel down low. However most everything else follows each other. Both reach 60 mph at pretty much the same time, both have about the same egt's and both build and hold boost exactly the same. The overfueled tune did feel more responsive when not at WOT, but that was simply because I didn't have to push the pedal down as far to get the same seat of the pants results.

My seller backed out....damn

I'd reflash the box under the hood or send it back to quad to have it worked on.

K27 is a ok turbo. It wouldnt be my first choice, but for the right price. He351cw requires some work to put in, there are diys on the internet.

you can try mounting in a different spot. on the dash under the glass will reach temps of 160*f+

I personally would not go under 7 x .010's. 7 x .009's if you are really worried, but with good tuning 7 x .010's are normally the best injector choice. gotta remember that bigger injectors don't always means higher egt and more smoke. A larger injector with less duration will make the same power and have less heat than a smaller injector and more duration. PROVIDED your HP goal requires a lot of duration to reach on the smaller injectors. That turbo is MUCH newer than the hx40, about 25-30 years newer tech I would choose a 12 cm housing personally, but @dieselautopower would know better. I ran all over the rockies towing my 3 horse gooseneck with 7 x .012's and a he351ve and did not have EGT issues. It's all in the tuning.

Egts will be an issue if you tune it to run hard. You can tune it down and i would think you will be fine, but i would opt for at least a hx35

I passed with 7 x .012's and a quad. the tuning is key. The edge and 75's wouldn't pass emissions.

A quadzilla and 7 x .010 injectors and a newer style turbo. the hx40 is a OLD turbo design. If you want to keep it on the cheap a HE351cw

Well I found another one. Waiting on pictures but I think I am going to pull the trigger I have been getting the urge to build an engine recently so I am thinking maybe a rebuilt m50TU ( engine with Vanos) + 5 speed swap with some head studs... and a hy35 turbo to go with it. Should net ~300 WHP..in a wagon

try keeping the tablet in the shade, load your tune when you start the truck then run without the gauges for a bit. If the issue does away then the tablet is likely overheating and turning off bluetooth. you could have all sorts of weird issues.

Most issues are related to an aging platform. Worn our sensors, failing xyz etc etc. The quadzilla needs good inputs to run well. more so than other tuners for a 2nd gen because of the on the fly maps creation that happens based on various inputs. If a map sensor starts to fail on an edge or S03 no one notices because both of those will command %100 duration at 0 psi. The quad can as well, but the tunes we post do not do this. We want you to use all your throttle input leaving a light without smoking out the intersection. Next biggest issue is the learning curve. The UDC pro from the smarty touch is normally done via professional tuning and is more complex, however the quad v2 was written so the average joe could tune with it..IF HUGE IF, they are willing to put effort into it. The edge S03 ez xzt tst ts are all VASTLY simpler to use. Simpler to use means less control. I tried to find a happy medium between the two. That means some guys aren't going to like it and they are going to have issues because they don't want to learn. we get around that by trying to document and do videos to help guys out. I NEVER suggest the tuner to someone who wants a plug and play thing. If they want to control fueling and timing directly then the quad is for them. The quad will NOT make your truck any faster, however with a proper tune it won't be any slower. the perk is under the curve and no longer needing to drive around your tune. You don't have to "roll into it" you don't have to worry about rpms / boost / trailer weight etc etc etc before putting your foot into it. Your tune will control fueling and timing to the point where it won't smoke. It will build power smoothly and without worry. I will say I did back to back runs using diffrent tunes, Tune 1 was %100 smoke free Tune 2 was very much like the edge on 5x5 or the smarty on sw9. The run with tune #2 felt MUCH stronger, but when I looked at the datalogs from the run there was no actual difference in 0-60. The butt dyno is a liar. All it does it tell you when torque comes on, not how much. Those datalogs are posted in the articles as well. and to be clear, I don't feel insulted about it all. Used to...not anymore I don't really care if someone likes it or not all I try to do anymore is show facts and what can be done. The 2nd gen market was all smoke and mirrors. All the tuners do the same thing at the end of the day. With the other tuners you get a box tune, with the quad you don't. If you dont like the way your truck runs then %95 of the time it is your own fault.

Shouldnt matter as long as the tablet isnt overheating and turning off Bluetooth.

check out the stickies in the downloads section https://mopar1973man.com/forum/174-quadzilla-power/ there are videos on both

engine and body this is a 1999, but it is very close and contains most of the stuff you need

To put it in perspective for you. We have had tunes posted here for a few years now. There have been nearly 4,000 tune downloads. The tuning articles that have been posted have generated more than 20,000 views. To understand how much traffic that is compared to another tuning article The "edge article how to" has generated less than 1500 views in the 10 years. this site gets a metric F-TON of Quadzilla traffic for good reason lol. The reason why you think you see a lot of issues is because there is a lot of posts about quads here. I can remember to date 3 instances where a quad had issues that couldn't be solved. I can remember ~10 instances over the last 5 years where a quad was DOA. what you don't see is the mass of people that have no issues. Very few people ever come to a forum to post " hey everything's great" The reason I don't "address the guys having issues" is the vast majority of them haven't figured out the tuning. Thats why we help them, thats why we post articles. I can't even begin to guess how many bad map sensors have been found as a result of people "having issues with their quad" The S03 has an equally poor track record of observed user issues. most of them are related to aging ECM's and aren't actually the s03's fault. I never bring that up. What I do bring up is the S03 extremely limited documentation and VERY poor fuel and timing user end management. 1. timing is locked at 18* at full duration and semi hi throttle. This was done to ensure dyno torque numbers were high at 1800 rpm, thats it. you pick up significant power by increasing timing to 30* up top. This is why most people complain that the smarty falls off up top. 2. %100 is reached at VERY low throttle input on high sw levels. on on SW5 %100 duration is commanded below %50 throttle input. You say you don't think a quad truck could keep up with you, what information do you have to say that? ever been in a quad truck? ever played with the tuning? The reason why I said the Smarty was his issue is because he was saying he is having issues with his truck smoking like a freight train. That is a S03 tuning trait unless you learn to drive around your tuning. With bigger injectors and a S03 you have to manage your throttle pedal or else you will have smoke issus. This is a S03 issue in itself. You can claim you don't have smoke issues, but I know what happens if you do a snap WOT take off from a light, I know what happens when you have a locked shift to OD with too high of throttle input and low boost. I will be happy to compare videos of those situtations with you. That is something I consider an issue with the tuning. I've driven the same fuel / air setup with the smarty, edge, and quad. The quad was the only one that I did not have to drive around the tuning. The quadzilla was the only one that cruise control still worked without surging. I didn't have to adjust my daily tuning to go do emissions. I passed emissions with %2 less opacity on my daily tune while making 200 more hp to the wheels than I used to using the smarty on %50 mode. I am very happy to address any issues. I am bias, I wrote the V2 tuning, but I wrote it to solve issues my issues and the issues with the current tuners on the market. I documented the process and took user input, If someone wanted to read they would know the complete history of the V2 tuning...good and bad. I know the limits of the quad, edge, tst, S03, touch. The quadzilla offers more for less, nothing is issue free however. I am glad you like your setup, keep rocking it if it works for you. However for guys who don't like how the smarty works then there are other choices which I prefer.

The datalogs of the smarty tuning are posted. They speak for themselves.

on 2013+ trucks there are 2 filters that should be changed every 15,000 miles. this should be done when you do your oil filter Parts needed / Part number 1. 68197867AB fuel Filter 2. 68157291AA Water separtor 3. 29mm socket f or the fuel filter cap 4. ratchet / extensions / elbows 5. oil filter rubber wrench is helpful for the water seperator Filter Locations Filter 1 is on the driver side of the engine mounted to the block. You will need a 29mm socket to undo this. You will also likely need a elbow or 2 to get around the hood cowl. Note the cap is plastic so take care not to strip it. Filter 2 is located just in front of the Rear Axel centered above the drive shaft. This filter is a screw on filter. ** please note that you will get a good amount of fuel spillage when you unscrew this filter. Ensure your eyes are not going to be leaked on. Note the water in fuel sensor / drain. this sensor can be unplugged from the truck harness to make removal easier. The Part number for this is PFRK54553 but you dont need to replace unless damaged. a new o-ring comes with the filter. View full Cummins article

The articles section has wiring diagrams

4.5 v = 0 psi .5 v = ~50 psi. you should see voltage drop from 4.5v to .5v as boost increases

post datalogs please