flman

Seems that Fass feeds too much pressure and the VP44 does not like it. The pump is controlled through a relay tied into the stock pump to supply pilot voltage to the relay coil, I guess just that split second that it puts pressure to the pump is enough to screw it up. If I wait, for the pressure to drop, it will start OK. I was thinking of putting a time delay relay on the pump? http://www.primelec.com/Electronic-Components/Relays/AGASTAT-12-Volt-On-Delay-p7886012.html

When I first got my FL50 it came with an electronic gauge, that would actually move to different places based on oil pressure. Then one day the "engine check" light came on (not a CEL), and the oil gauge got all erratic, this is a Freightliner, and a fault like oil will cause the engine to shut down in 60 seconds, unless you hold a rocker switch on the dash. Any ways the smart sender failed, and Cummins replaced it under warranty with a dumb sender, the needle always goes to and stays at 60 PSI, no matter what. Cummins even had to re flash the ECM to use the new dumb sender.

Could you post a link to the Acer web site, and your computer specs? If we knew more about your particular PC, we could offer more help.

In refrigeration we use 1/4" flare for our hoses, many of these connections will have a simple Schraeder valve in them. If you are looking for something that will depress a Schraeder core for gauge hook up let me know. I could also get 1/4"flare by 1/8" IPT adapters, or I am sure you can find them on line, check Imperial Eastman fittings.

One day, I might just do that, but I wont obsess over it, by the time spring time comes, I am sure the gauge will start reading a higher number, once the fuel in the gauge line and isolator warms up.

Kind of funny Cummins wants you to have 10+ PSI, and then they supply the engine with a POS pump?

14 PSI after cold fuel gets flowing for a few minutes, and 11 to 10 at WOT. I probably could have went with the 150 pump, but I read all kinds info here that too much fuel flow will make the fuel heat up. Any ways, after a hard run the VP44 pump body and computer on top is cool to the touch, not even luke warm. So I am probably just fine. Also, I do have that inaccurate isolator in the line ;)

I agree bleed it, if you don't, you might just as well put in the isolator you don't like, because the air cushion in the line is going to make it inaccurate any ways.

Sounds like a problem in the bios, or hardware is halting the bios? Did it do this with the old hard drive? Do you have a SATA or IDE hard drive? Maybe you should plug the old HD back in, just to see if that stops the pool problem? What kind of bios do you have, Award or Phoenix? Maybe you need to enter the bios and manually set the date?

Must be senility setting in? I did indeed have it on line 1 (IP Inlet) after all:confused:

Is the new hard drive detected in bios? When do you get the pool data error, as soon as you turn it on, or does windows load some files first? You should check the bios and be sure the drive shows up? I am not sure of where you are in the install when this all happens?

The anti freeze would be a few tablespoons, the fuel would be pressurized and flowing until you can stop it, if you are able to, if you are still conscious and the key still works? I used the isolator, but you are on your own, hope it all works out for you.

I have mine hooked into the banjo at the return/outlet fitting of the VP44, should I maybe move it upstream to #1? You can see it just below the sticker on the VP44. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=439&stc=1&thumb=1&d=1263600058

You know, if something ever went wrong, like an accident, or the gauge bellows fractured or any thing else, do you really want fuel spraying in your cab? If you are not going to use the isolator, you should at least get a gauge that mounts out side, in front of the wind shield. I have the isolator, and I would say it makes my gauge a little less accurate, but I value living through a crash over fuel pressure accuracy. I was considering going with a pod and getting electronic gauges, or trying to find a new gauge cluster panel for my dash that has more gauges then my truck was originally built with.

M1973M, I would not dare hooking the Fass to the factory connector, that wiring looked way to small, compared to the Fass wiring with a 30A fuse in it. I used a 30A relay to make and break the pump circuit so the ECM thinks all is well, and for safety as well. I already had the gauge installed, and the pressure is at 14 PSI with the new pump, thanks for the help. I am going to take it for a ride on the Interstate Monday, hilly area in the Catskill Mountains.

Well, got the Fass pump system all installed and 'Big Blue" is running alot better now, thanks to to finding this site. It has much better throttle response, and it has got its distinct "Cummins Cackle" back. I noticed when I let the clutch out she snorts and jolts like a bull, just like she used to. When I first started it I got a CEL and a code ECU 128, I thought maybe it did not like fuel being fed with the engine not running, during the GP warm up, so I wired a relay into the stock fuel pump wiring to make the ECU think every thing was normal. I left the old pump on the engine, and the old fuel line to the tank with a plug in it, but not connected. If I ever had a problem with the Fass, I still could connect the old system in an hour if need be. Thanks for all the help, look for forum donation to help the site.

Is that the Northeastern supplier by any chance?

Right, my truck is governed to 2500 RPM, the Dodge Cummins rev much higher.

I got my Fass 95GPH mounted to the frame today, and I have the wiring run, tomorrow I will connect to the fuel tank, hopefully that is all big blue is going to need. I agree that DDRP at 40GPH is only putting out the same amount as the OEM pump. The math comes to 1.11 quarts in 25 seconds, even less then the OEM puts out per specs of the pump test. Correct me if I am wrong? http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/lift-pump-diag/lift-pump-diag.htm

Couple of questions, the pump is not identified by inlet and outlet, I assume T is tank, and E is engine? Also, will the stock electrical connector supply enough amps to run this pump, or do I need a heaver power source, such as use the stock wiring to run a relay? On the parts list it says, "Electrical harness with relay" There is no relay, only a fuse?

Got the pump today, that thing is a lot more of a pump then the factory one will ever be. What is it, a gear pump, sort of like you would have on a home oil burner? Well, maybe if I get some time tomorrow I will find a suitable place to mount it, get it mounted, and move on to the piping and wiring if I get time. I think the new wastegate actuator did help with some of the power loss, I had it on the interstate today, on a long grade, where it was previously dropping speed in cruise control, it actually held its own, with no speed drop. It still is missing some power though. Maybe once I get good fueling, the computer will tell the pump to start feeding the injectors more?

I am not worried about 10 below, we hardly ever see it, and I park the truck in my shop. Unheated but better then out doors.

Take a stick welder to the bolt, and stick the rod to the broken bit, you should be able to reverse it out, you could even remove the bolts this way, if they weren't so rusted in.

I just ordered this: http://www.klmstore.com/fo-d03-095g-fass-hpfp-95-1003.aspx Just what I want, more fuel, simple installation. Looks like it puts out double GPM over stock or Fass DDRP. Has a lifetime warranty too.

It is a 5 cylinder, 2.7 liter, 154 HP.