AH64ID

I have heard that some caps allow for over pressurization, but generally the lines blow off the cooler not the pump seals. For curiosity's sake, what is he using for fluid?

Any of the sizes will work then. I like 267/75 and 255/85 personally.

Yep, better speed performance out of direct and a loss in OD. It's important to find the compromise. With my current tire size I lost a couple of useful mph in 6th, but made 5th better at 60-65. For where I tow it works great.

I agree completely. Recipes are starting point, and the good ones require modification.

Since you are towing 75% of time I would look at what speed you typically cruise at and backwards plan from there. The taller the tire the lower the performance there will be in overdrive while towing.

Did you say lunch at Twin Peaks?

I'll try to get some recipes posted this weekend. Anyone else into sourdough? I seem to recall some starter discussion on here before.

There is a time of year when you stop grilling or cooking good food?

I have a Viair 480C installed in my tool box, it's very handy and was an easy install. If I didn't have a tool box, or room inside the cab, my next choice would be between the bed and bedside foreward of the rear tire basically opposite the fuel filler neck. I would mount the pump in a box that didn't have a top, with a drain hole, and mount the box to the bed. I would then use the remote intake filter and move it somewhere I felt was cleaner. If you crawl up under the truck and look up you will see that part doesn't get much direct abuse.

Yep, not ST tires which is why they have an actual load index and speed rating.

ST tires, as mentioned, do have much different standards. Look at two tires of the same size in ST and LT. The LT will be heavier, have a higher speed rating, and a much lower weight rating. If you are loading to max weight be sure to stick to the speed rating, as most failures occur when loaded heavy or under-inflated. I am not sure what size tire you run, but the 15" LRE ST options are very limited and most 15" trailer wheels won't support the pressure or weight of a LRE anyhow. It seems that for years LRD was the max for 15" and that's what most wheels were built around. You can find 15" wheels capable of 80psi and 2800lbs, but they are not common. My trailer came with 225/75R15 LRD ST tires and I wanted to step up to LT's for better puncture resistance. I had to go to 16" rims and get a 225/75R16 in order to have the weight carrying capacity I had with the 15's. The new wheels and tires are in the bed of my pickup and should get put on the trailer this week. I ended up getting Allied Wheels 870's and Bridgestone Duravis R500's. The 870's are 16x6 and have 3750lbs stamped on the inside of them, and the R500's are rated for 2680lbs at 80 psi. I wold not call the sidewalls of an ST heavy by any means, they always seem weak to me. My Marathon's in 225/75R15 were 31lbs , and the R500s are 40lbs. There is 1" more diameter, but the section width and aspect ratio are the same so not enough to account for 9lbs (30%) more tire. The sidewalls on the ST's feel flimsy and the LT's are very stiff. One of the big arguments against LT's on trailers is the stiffer sidewall and the scrubbing in tight turns. There is zero requirement to go with LT tires, and I have had zero failures on my ST's that are due to the standards/speed. I do tow at 70-72, but not often and never with the tires above about 75% load. The 3 ST flats I have had were due to rock punctures on Idaho's dirt roads. Time will tell if my LT's are better or not, but I do expect them to last longer. My ST's are nearly bald after less than 15K miles and I used 6 of them in a rotation on 2 axles. Did they say ST on the side or just Trailer? ST trailers by definition are 65 mph rated, and those are clearly not 65 mph rated. ST tires also don't carry standard speed ratings, as there isn't one for 65.

The fan clutch on a 3rd gen is electronically controlled by the ECM. If the clutch on 2nd gens is still a true mechanical clutch then it wouldn't have engaged, as the temperature coming off the radiator wasn't high enough to engage it.

The Factory Service Manual has nothing on it as it's not a OEM serviced item. I would call T&C Diesel and ask Todd.

I would only go that route if you don't tow, otherwise any benefit from the added temp will be lost by additional fan operation.

The town I live in is growing quite fast, but luckily not by us. My 16 mile commute still takes 20-25 minutes and no traffic on the back roads, but my wife has to go downtown and her 18 miles can take 25-45 minutes.

207° is where the 190° thermostat goes full open, and since a lot of heat comes from the head the 1100° will have an effect on it. I have noticed that the opening spikes are higher closer to the first opening with a load, as the entire block hasn't stabilized yet. In short, you may have had the first opening but I doubt the temps had stabilized and the inrush of heat/load from the grade means that it took a little longer to reopen. If you start to see it more frequently it is a sign of the thermostat starting to wear out. With the large size of our cooling systems the thermostats don't go full open on a regular basis so they develop wear spots and going full open becomes more difficult over time.

Haha... Not sure how you think I camp, but far from everything we own. Generally enough to have something for the kids to do, and some whiskey. Few 4wheeler rides and its a fun weekend. Everything is boondocking for us. The #1 reason for a TT over a tent is winter/ring camping, with nights in the teens. A tent isn't nearly as fun with 3 kids under 10 when its 20° outside, or raining for 2-3 days. The weight on the rear tires is going to be more with a GN than a BP of the same trailer GVW. A GN has 20-25% pin weight vs 10-15 TW. The BP will reduce the front axle weight, but not by enough to make the rear axle heavier with a BP than GN of equal GVW. GN trailers do ride the pickups airwaves better thou.

How do you think it differs? I looked into non bumper pull trailers, and they don't make GN toy haulers that would work. There are GN adapters, but they are hard on pin boxes and frames, and any associated warranty. If I were to go with a 5er, and I am not sure the hitch woukd like some of the angles it would see, the cost of a 4 season TH is so absurd that it's not worth it. They cost too much and are not built very well, at least all of the ones I have seen. Then there is the issue of turning, a GN/5er couldn't go many of the places I take my TT due to the pivot point.

Most of my dirt road miles are at full pressure as I am generally loaded up. My front end lasted longer than most, and really wasnt too worn when replaced/upgraded at 86K miles. I am also several hundred lbs heavier on the front that most, due to the hitch, batteries, filters, etc. I scale at over 5K empty on the front axle.

On long dirt/gravel I will drop the pressures for the reasons mentioned.... But those aren't trips where I look for mileage either. I have been known to drop as low as 40/20, but I also won't get above 25 mph for 7-10 days.

60 psi on your 05 makes it that bad?

I know that if I drop my front's below 60 they get real hot, and real quick. It's a slick road condition pressure for me NTE 45-50 mph. With an empty truck the fronts are always hotter than the rears, by enough to be noticeable to my hand and that can be with 65/40 on pressure. I'd love to get 80K out of ANY tire.. hell I'd be happy with 50K miles. But 18-20k lbs GCW on steep/winding gravel roads just eats tires even with soft driving. Pressure isn't my issue, it's application. I can guarantee that if you were to follow me around with the same weight for 30-50K miles your tires would be done.

Have you hit them with a heat gun after a drive?

There are several return lines around the engine. Did the head return line get checked?

Exactly, it takes 2x the hp to go 2x as fast. Would the 200hp run out of revs or hp? What came first, the chicken or the egg? Yeah the ability to gear down is huge! Increase torque and get the hp required to do the work at the speed desired... it's why both are important and real. Lots of FUN!!!