AH64ID

Correct, it's not the cooling abilities of the engine. It's the extra mass to heat/keep warm, and the additional efficiency creating a smaller burn with higher compression that keep cylinder heat down.

Yuck!! How long ago was it done? Bad seals?

Your application is one of the few times where Cetane boost would be a good idea. Cetane improves low temp/low load combustion, try a 3pt increase. Fast idle does help increase load and improve combustion but your 25 minutes of fast idle for 1/2 mile of driving isn't the best option either. Do you have a winter front? That will really make the block heater more effective. There is more to get warm than the coolant and cylinder, the oil needs to get hot as well. 20 miles is probably barely enough to warm things up.

It all depends on the filter, many of them are not designed to last that long. While it's unlikely you will plug it, why not change a cheap filter?? To me that's more of a fuel filter thing, thou it does effect all filter I just don't worry about it on oil. You also keep a bit of the old oil in the motor. A really good oil filter is 15um absolute and a really good fuel filter is 3um absolute as a fuel system has tighter tolerances. On my diesel I change both oil filters with the oil, but on my gasser I change the bypass every other year. On the diesel I want all the sooty oil gone, on the gasser it's okay to have a little leftover oil.

Nothing here, but SE Idaho is a few miles away....

I think the LF9028 would be worth it. In 7500 miles you are not opening the bypass valve, which is in the filter head and not the filter on our engines. You would have to seriously neglect the truck to plug a filter that bad.

The 2003 Service manual has the electronic shift NV273 in it. I think it was a Laramie option in 2003+, and became more common on lower trims as time progressed.

100 is the absolute most it should it, and then rarely if even that high. The port in the filter head is after the cold oil pressure relief valve, which opens at 75psi. On a cold engine it can go above that, but I haven't seen more than 80-85 in the port above the ECM. From what I have seen of others who monitor above the oil filter, and me in the cam journal above the ECM isn't that much of a difference. There is more pressure in the filter head, and IIRC that's where Cummins specs the pressure at, but it's maybe a 5 psi difference under normal operation. Very close, but the oil filter housing will register slightly higher pressure.

But which Cummins engine? I wouldn't be extending a 2007.5+ any past the light if the emissions was still intact. The OCI on those motors is based on fuel dilution, and there isn't an oil that can help with that.

I thought the E J/A would read oil pressure?

The 2004 Owners Manal I have downloaded states 7,500 B and 15,000 A. Yes it's an extended service interval filter, but it's not designed for our application. The 5.9 that uses it has a very different life. It's a great filter, it just needs to be validated in pickup use. Gotcha, missed the "classic" part. I don't think you will find any. Chevron still lists Delo 400, non-LE, and it's not available either. About the only place that might still have it would be a marine supplier. The Amsoil will last the longest. You can't judge modern oil by its color, too much emissions going on even in 2004. UOA is the only way really know.

I don't think there is enough data available on the LF9028 to call it an extended life filter. It has less full flow media than a standard filter and the bypass portion is a small fraction of the size of a standard long life bypass filter. I would sample at 7,500 and then again every 2,500 miles until you find its life. Your engine is already rated for up to 15,000 miles on schedule A, but few people use it that way. Dodge/Cummins can't publish an extended interval for synthetic because there are too many variables and UOA is the only way to know. Ditch blackstone and use OAI Testing, it's cheaper and I prefer the techs and reports. As for oil I am shocked you can't find Valvoline, it's in every shelf of every store here. If you really want a good long life oil get Amsoil AME, it's one of the last CI oils and they are better than CJ oils.

Yes the beating movement you described doesn't sound normal. I was referring to where you said you didn't think it has been working for a while if it's not working there should be a code.

You should get a soft code when the fan is failing and not reaching the desired rpms. I rarely ever hear mine, even at 215° ECT but the Smarty a Touch shows me fan rpms and it works. I vote OEM on cooling system stuff. I wonder if it's available thru Cummins or just Mopar.

2.759 in Kuna today.

Number 1 appears to be the battery temperature sender. Can't tell on the 2nd.

Merry Christmas to Touch owners! Thanks Brian, I know what I am updating tonight.

The problem with the 100% packing that an occur is that you don't get an accurate bearing temp via the hub, it's cooler than bearing due to a lack of heat transfer.

I am not sold on the bearing buddy/EZ lube systems. They make it very easy to overpack them, which reduces the heat removal from the bearings (per Timken). With excess grease the hub may be cooler and the bearing hotter, as heat isn't transferred as effectively. They also do nothing for the requirement to repack them by hand, which is usually an annual requirement. There isn't much replacement for a good old fashioned hand pack.

The vent on the top of the tank can plug easily. There is a MOPAR solution to this, but I haven't gotten around to installing it on my truck yet.

I don't think so, it's been that way for years. My brother had KM2s is a LRD that were 3195@60 in 285/70R17.

I need to fill up today, but a quick search shows diesel at 2.759 here!

Standard ones are, but there are high pressure ones... That link even shows them, 80 or 100psi versions. I recall seeing them without an exposed brass barrell. My pickup came OEM with rubber and a door sticker calling for 75psi. The low psi ones will supposedly blow out at 80-90 psi, which is obtainable with a load on a hot day at 75-80 psi cold.

5 of my 6 lug 16's are rated for 65 psi, and one of them is rated for 80 psi. Most OEM 15" 6 lug trailers wheels I have seen are only rated for 65 psi, so it appears you got lucky. There are rubber valve stems rated for 80 psi. Many tires stores only stock the high pressure stems, it keeps the wrong ones from being installed.

Did you have to upgrade wheels? Or were your OEM tires LRE?? Just don't see a lot of 80 psi OEM 15" wheels.