AH64ID

I basically went with the GDP method as well. My first torque was to 110#. I did them 1 by 1 at 110#, until all the bolts were replaced with studs. I then started my 2nd torque sequence, and finally the third. OEM torque puts them at about 105#, which is why I started at 110#. I wanted all the new studs to be slightly tighter than the OEM bolts as I replaced them. My second torque was to 117#, I then waited 15-20 minutes and did the 3rd torque to 125#. I then plugged the block heater in and let it sit overnight, and re-torqued to 125# the next morning. After driving it for 40-50 miles I let it cool and checked each one with the wrench at 125#, none moved... That's how it sat for many many miles until the head came off for a rebuild. Don't locktite them. Do put them in until they bottom out and back it off 1/4-1/2 turn. I didn't chase the threads. None go into the water jacket, but yes some do go into the oil galleys. Use LOTS, and LOTS, and LOTS of lube... you do not want any resistance. If they pop/drag during the torque sequence take the nut off and add more lube. I would order extra lube, what comes with the set isn't generally enough.

That is a trailer tire for sure, but I don't see the ST designation. I am fairly confident that the ST designation is limited to a 65 mph rating. The only tire I know of that is ST and allows operation above 65, but isn't "rated", is the Goodyear Marathon. https://www.tirerack.com/images/tires/goodyear/Marathon_Special_Trailer_Applications.pdf I have had great luck with Marathons over the last 6 years of owning TT's. I have had 3 flats and they were ALL from nasty dirt roads and sharp punctures. I have towed at 70 for many miles and never had a blowout, but I always run a lot more air than needed and don't get much above 80% of the weight rating. I will be getting new tires this year and will step up to 16" rims and a LRE LT tire. I am looking for more puncture resistance than ST tires offer.

My truck put down 275/520 on stock, about a 15% loss. Despite the large drive-train, there is much less loss than the standard 25% you see on gas cars. Based on that number I am about 140/330 over stock, which is not all that much less than the first Dodge Cummins (160/440). My flywheel power is probably around 490/1000, thou I did take a tiny bit of fuel out so maybe 475/950 is more like it these days. Those numbers go to show you how much timing make a difference on power. I do have BBI Stage 1's, but run MUCH less duration than stock did, so the BBI's are not making anywhere near their full potential on fuel.

Dyno and street testing may result in different power. I have a very simple 505rwhp tune for my truck that doesn't smoke at all, but I never run it. I just keep my ~415hp tow tune loaded all the time.

The stock CP3 and injectors probably don't have the capability to smoke, under boost, as the turbo can keep up with them. But mash it at low rpms and it should smoke. For stock trucks SW7 is usually more powerful than SW9 as SW9 demands too much pressure and fuel to be kept up with. As for War's PoD tests the TQ3, which is very aggressive, was counteracting the PoD and why he could shift. Try PoD 40 with an auto on TQ1, as he did, and see how poorly it shifts. Aside from city driving PoD should have zero effect on mileage, it doesn't change any of the tune parameters other than throttle.

I would get 2-3 quarts of Amsoil ATF and change it, it's a relatively cheap change and old fluid does what you are describing.

It changes the input. PoD 50 is the same as never going above 50% throttle. You would hate the way it drives on PoD 50, it would feel like you have to floor it to do anything and you would have so little power above 2200 rpms it would be difficult to pass someone safely. Drive it and feel it, best way to describe it.

Bilsteins for the OEM height will work. They are the best shock I have ever used. On the detour the thread has taken... I have ran a 2" and a 1". I like the 1" much better, it still improves the appearance and increases the oil pan clearance (main goal), while providing more tire to firewall clearance and a substantially better ride. 2" looks better but that's about it. It was a major pain when loaded as the airbags took a ton of air to stay level which made the ride much worse. With the 1" I need a fraction of the air as a 2" and the ride is much better loaded and empty. I don't buy the geomety and longevity issues, not for a second. My brothers bone stock 06 Hemi QCLB sits a hair higher than my 1" levels truck. Even a 2" levels truck is still within the stock geometry specs. An adjustable track bar is for appearance only.

You shouldn't be wearing the centers of the front out at 50-55, and you really need to bump it up to 60ish to be safe to travel at highway speeds. 45 on the fronts of a CTD with LRE 265/70R17 will eventually lead to an overheated and blown out tire. I would run 60 front and 45 rear. It's a 30 or 60 or etc rwhp (rear wheel horsepower) gain on a dyno. PoD effects the throttle input. Best example is PoD 50. The throttle is 50% as sensitive as PoD, and WOT at PoD 50 is like 50% throttle at PoD99. 100% of mid range power can still be had above PoD75, with PoD 85 100% of the power thru 3000 can still be had. I run PoD85 all the time, because I like the pedal feel better. With an auto trans you cannot go much lower than PoD90 before you start effecting shift points, but PoD 90 is good for softer starts.

Very cool. My dad and I found a dead barred owl on the property I am buying yesterday.

Yep.. Look at all the damage they did to 1/2 ton running gear, and that was back in the days of low hp.

Bonneville is a great time!

45 psi in the fronts too? That is dangerously low for 70 mph, or even 45 mph. That might give you 4Klbs of support and your front end is going to be closer to 5K. Are you going off the overhead? 20 at 70 seems a little high, but maybe? Smarty SW7 timing 2 torque 1 rail pressure 1. Give that a try for mileage only, do not play with the power unless you want to buy a transmission.

A 5.0 V8 diesel and a 1/2 ton shouldn't be matched, while a 3.0 I-6 is the best option a V-6 is a close second.

Beautiful car! I'd like to have one some day, just to drive on the salt.

Those kind of turbo tests are a joke at best, unless your truck lives at WOT. In the real world the slowest spooling turbo is NOT the best towing turbo.. It doesn't work that way. I could go on and on about the uselessness of that series of tests, but I think it's rather apparent.

Yes the Smarty uses the latest software at time of writing, but it should also leave the same software on the truck when it goes back to stock. It's interesting for sure, especially with the error in OEM software.

Very interesting. Look at the individual gauges on the SG and see what one changes. MAP absoloute, and ambient absoloute.

When I spoke with Bosch they said 5um absolute single pass in the minimum spec. A Baldwin PF7977 meets that spec, and some additional filters will exceed it. Dodge did install 10um filters in 03-05ish, but due to excessive warranty claims they dropped to 7um circa MY06. It's better, but not enough. The same engine with non-Dodge filters got 5um filtration. 3um is right for OEM, in my research I haven't found an engine that calls for it. I'm not saying they don't exist, just thst I haven't seen it. A quick search shows the Donaldon cross is 5um at 95%. I have yet to see a Donaldson filter be worse than the pure part, unlike NAPA/Wix. The Wix filter is 10um nominal.

Personally I'm not sold on the Cheetah's, but I do hear good things. What about a Super B Single? Or any one of the 62/65/12's?

Depends.. If he has the latest software then that's all there is. Like I said this is something I have never noticed, and I pay a bit of attention to my gauges and OBDII readouts.

S-06 with gauges or the Touch will do what you want.

Possibly, but the appearance of the error is on stock software not Smarty software...

Yeah, but it's going the wrong way from what would be expected if it was skewing. I am thinking its just a random coincidence.

Absolutely Any tune should run better than stock.. part of the reason that some people don't see an increase in mileage, they are having too much fun.