AH64ID

The salt belt is just hard on everything. http://www.rcvperformance.com/product-details-axles.aspx?sku=CVJAAM-D2535

I would throw a boost/pyro in it at a minimum. Congrats!!

I am doing some research on this right now. What I am finding is, depite internet "facts", is that non-greasable are preferred. The non-greasable joints are stronger, and less prone to contaminant intrusion. A properly, and regularly, serviced greasable is not as prone to contamination, but most people don't service them enough. The big issue is strength, a solid piece of metal is stronger than one with a hole in it. Since most of use make a bit more power than stock and the u-joint handles all the power it's not a part you want to scrimp on. What I have found is OEM, AAM, axle joints are the best. The Spicers are a good unit, but have lots of fitment issues. For the drive shaft's OEM or Spicer is preferred.

Can you adjust the pressure on the HPFP?GDP, as well as others, sell kits to mount a filter under the truck. If you want to build your own the filter base is a Baldwin FB1311.

York makes a bolt on kit, but unless your using a lot of air daily (think mobile repair truck) it's nearly impossible to justify the cost. I have had several OBA setups in multiple rigs over the years, and for irregular use it's really hard to beat the ViAir 450C. It's a 100% duty cycle pump, with enough volume to fill tires at a decent rate. It's small enough that it can be installed in multiple locations, and only draws 19 amps at full load.I would put some thought into tanks. It takes a lot of volume to make tanks worth while on a low CFM pump. Once the tank pressure drops to tire pressure you are now filling the tank/tire and fill time is increased, unless you install a valve which is more work. I used to run a pair of 2.5 gal tanks and they were less beneficial than one would think, aside from exhaust brake and air horn use. If you need a tank for either of those I would install a check valve between a small tank and the pump so that when your filling things the tank isn't part of the equation.

That could solve it, with the way the ECM monitors boost before fueling it could present itself as low boost and fueling, with a little accompanied black smoke.

Yeah, the great thing about UDC is you can tune that out. I think RP is a coincidence, as on my truck at least, there is no delay when fuel is applied. It's all part of the programming and tuning. You can have all the power you want, but the throttle is linear. I run my torque management less than stock in the bottom 20% of throttle the linear to about 10% above stock. It certainly makes the truck feel less powerful off the line (compared to the aggressive throttle of box tuners), but it's smooth, easy on the drivetrain and still makes about 50% more torque than stock :-). I also keep PoD at 85, which still develops 100% of the power of PoD99, but the pedal is only 85% as sensitive. Like I said, I am not knocking Michael, or 2nd gens.. .just pointing out one of the great benefits to custom tuning.

I've never had an issue with mine, and my trailer adds 1300lbs of tongue so that helps too. Other than snow/ice I have to REALLY try to break anything loose, and I mean REALLY try.

Low pressure on anything electrical is fine, but don't spray it too much. The connectors are water-tight, but don't test them. Other wise I spray mine off fairly often.

If you are willing to spend the time then you will really like it. As an example I wrote 21 SJR tunes, and have just written my 9th S06 tune. It's not that I don't like each tune, it's there are so many variables and with such control you can really fine tune a motor. Some tunes I didn't even run for more than 20 miles, but there may be an hour, two, or twelve, in developing a single tune or change.It's an amazing tool, and my truck drives far better than it ever did, and it drove great pre-UDC. Not to poke at Michael, but in reading about his turbo swap he talked about how easily the truck broke the tires loose. My first thought was "I love not having that problem". It's not because I don't have the power, I make over 700 ft/lbs by 1750 and 800 by 2000 on a dyno with the run starting at 1600, it's because with Smarty and UDC I can tune the truck to where the power is smooth, and useable (i.e. not fighting traction) at any point. Sure I could change a few parameters and roast my tires, but it's so much nicer being able to match power to traction. Again, not a poke at Michael.. just a plus for UDC.

Not sure how many of you on this forum are using UDC, if any, but...Here is a timing calculator I created for use with Smarty's UDC. The file is not designed by, nor endorsed, by MADS. It's use is purely at your own risk. I assume no responsibility for its use. Okay, onto the file. I built this over the last 6-8 months and have refined it, and checked it's accuracy enough to share. I have had several people test it and all appears good. This is a good tool for tuning, and may not be the final answer for your tune, but is certainly a good start. It's data is only good as the data you feed it, so be accurate. Please let me know if you have any issues with it. I tried to include some instructions to help out. Enjoy!![ATTACH]4993[/ATTACH] UDC Timing Calculator v1.3.xlsx

Looks good!

You're a late riser!!

It's tomorrow... any luck yet?

Why do you think it's not worth bothering? The horn adds mid range power, and cooler IAT's.

I've read they are low quality and the warranty is against defects and not normal wear.. Meaning they can wear out in 5K miles and not be covered.

I am running a Southbend ConOFE and like it. I have about 415/850 to the ground and it holds it without issue. You will need a new flywheel and clutch hydraulics as well.

The 120hp tune is a bit much for towing 12K lbs, clutch aside, for the turbo to cool. I would tow on the 60hp setting, and then a single disk would be fine. If your going to be doing a lot of towing of that weight I would consider a dual disc, but my single disk works great for towing.

I went with a Colt Cams Stage 1 cam and like it. It made the bottom end smoother/stronger and definitely flows more air across the board. I didn't see a huge mileage gain with it, but my mileage is pretty decent for how I use the truck. I have only broke 20 once, but don't get to drive in manner that would allow me to very often. The 3rd gen 5.9 grind has the largest intake profile and smallest exhaust profile of any ISB cam in a Dodge. That means low airflow, and lots of exhaust left in the cylinder.Hamilton has come out with some new grinds since I bought my cam and I am not sure how they work for mileage. The computer will not ever be the wiser, but with a stock turbo I wouldn't expect much gains above a stage 1. The stock turbo is just too restrictive, and more airflow creates more back pressure and boost.

The sealed ones are actually preferred in the rust belt, because the seal better than the greasable kind. At least that's what I am finding in research.

http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/1298-Power-Steering-Flush-on-a-3rd-Gen That's for a 3rd gen, but you get the idea. One VERY important note is that 2nd gen's use power steering fluid, NOT, repeat NOT ATF like I use in the writeup. - - - Updated - - - This is what I put in my VW that takes PS fluid. http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/other-products/power-steering-fluid/multi-vehicle-synthetic-power-steering-fluid/?code=PSFCN-EA

I'm getting ready to do the same project..Dynatrac Ball JointsAxle U-JointsYukon HubsShocksSway Bar LinkSteering BraceI wouldn't buy the tool, and added hour of frustration per side pays you over $200/hr to be frustrated :-)The spicer 500613's are sealed lifetime joints, but at $90/ea they had better be!! I am willing to spend the cash to never have to do it again. I have read mixed reviews on the Precision greaseables life, and so far everyone recommends sealed as they are stronger. My OEM's are fine, but like I said, only want to tear it apart once. Unless you find a local distributor for the dynatracks they are going to be $659. A local guy may take less in cash. I just did a quick internet search, Amazon has the Spicer's for $72, and the precisions for $45. [h=1][/h]

As W&F noted were making a bigger deal out of this than needed, but it's a fun discussion so why not :-)I want to touch on the fuel polishing effect, yes it's good as you fuel is filter more than it would normally be. But it's my biggest beef with the AD/FASS setups that do it. The filters are not sized for the flow they get. A FASS 150 may only be pushing 70 GPH (arbitrary) to the injection pump, but the full 150 GPH is getting sucked thru thr f/w sep and whatever isn't needed to make the pressure set point is sent back to the tank. So you have 150 GPH being flowed thru a 90 GPH filter, maybe 120 GPH (some filters), but either way the flow is decreasing the efficiency of the filter and that's not a proper setup.The stock setup polishes the fuel plenty as well. On my 05 the pump is somewhere between 35-50 GPH under normal pressure, and about 90 GPH at no pressure. My average burn over the last 85K miles is about 2.15 GPH, so that's a lot of fuel polishing and it's all at a volume lower than the filters are rated for. When I replace the stock pump I will probably go 1/2" line from the tank, thru my first filter, and to the pump and then 3/8" line thru the next 2 filters to the CP3. There are lot's of people not running an over-sized suction, but I think it's a good idea.

With what size of a fuel pump? I agree on the fittings, I run better pressure than a lot of folks with stock pumps and my power level, but have upgraded all the banjo's to high flow banjo's or JIC AN fittings. So even with 3 filters I have no fuel pressure issues at 415/850+. I'm still on my first cup of coffee this morning. I wrote most of that after reading the first 2 paragraphs of yours :-)

There are 3 parts to the equation. Pressure, flow, and resistance. Change one and the others will change too. I have seen a 3/4" impact wrench struggle with 3/8" line at 90 psi (psi set for the wrench) and a 200 gallon tank behind it, why? The 3/8" line doesn't flow what the wrench needed, even thou the pressure was there. If you have a open ended 3/8" line and an open ended 3/4" air line both hooked to a unlimited supply of 120 psi air, the 3/4" line will flow more air. That's the same thing with fuel lines and fuel, but if the customer of the air/fuel doesn't need what the supply line is capable of then the flow is the same.