AH64ID

Have you verified there isn’t a CAD delete shaft installed?

Do you know why it's disconnected? Seems odd that it's just a random disconnection. Is it possible that it was a non-CAD truck that got a CAD axle installed in it for a repair? Can't recall if the CAD to non-CAD happened in MY01 or MY02. Or is there a CAD elimination kit installed?

They should be rated for 3195lbs, which is what regulations limit LT 17” tires to these days.

The FSM calls for 280. Do you have access to the downloads portion of this site? The 2001 FSM is in there. Hub.pdf

Sounds like a good setup then!

So the V-band that comes with it unbolts?

They look to get some good reviews and be a good turbo. I think it would match the mods in your sig nicely. Will it work with your exhaust brake? Maybe you are planning to keep the exhaust housing off your HX35?

It should be 5/8". I had to replace the OE hitch on my 05 as both the 2x2 opening and the 5/8" pin hole were wallered.

Something is amiss. Your temps are what is suspect.

You just proved my theory. If the IR gun reads the same temp your reading oil filter housing temp and not actual oil temp. That’s why it’s cold. The filter head will always be colder than actual oil temp. It should still give you a good relative indication, it’s just not actual oil temperature. It’s probably about 30° low.

What I said holds true regardless. If the temp sender is reading the temp of the entire unit and not the tip of the sensor it will read low. That looks like what is happening for you. The oil actually gets hotter on these engines with the piston and head heat and then the coolant brings it back down. The oil is exposed to more heat and has less cooling. It’s not 24V vs CR, it’s general engine operations. Oil temps operate at or above coolant temps without external oil coolers.

then I would say your temperature sender is reading more of the temperature of the filter head housing and not the oil. After about 30 miles the oil temperature should match coolant and up from there is based on efficiency

How many miles had you driven at that photo?

There still isn’t a good reason for oil temp to be cooler than coolant thou. It has no way to run cooler.

Good news!! I didn't realize you put a oil temp gauge in. Where did you put the sender? You run a lot colder oil than I did in the 05. My 05 would run coolant temp to coolant +5-10° in the winter without towing. Summer or towing in winter it ran coolant +15-20° unless I was on a long hard pull then it could get to coolant + 25-30°. The design of my 05 5.9 and 18 6.7 coolers looks very similar, thou they don't share the same core part numbers. The block holds less coolant on a 6.7 than a 5.9 and I do see that effect on warm-up and cool-down times, they also fluctuate temps a lot faster. I don't run a oil temp gauge on the 18 and the one on the dash is fake, but it really mirrors what I saw on the 05 in nearly all situations.

There are a few good articles on the subject. Compression ignition always benefits from higher coolant temps. It’s one of the reasons that Cummins went to a 200° thermostat on the early 4th gen 6.7. I suspect that oil temp is why they went back to a 190° thermostat. That’s nothing but an opinion based on what I’ve seen with oil temp in these motors.

If it's an hour drive and you're not getting to 190° unless loaded then you likely have a stuck thermostat. I would start by replacing the thermostat... not going to start another thermostat brand war... with a 190° thermostat and see if that helps. It is possible that a previous owner put a 165° thermostat in as that's a marine option, but not very likely. The 190° thermostat should crack at 187°-193°, run around 191°-193° cruising, go full open at 207° and not exceed 225°. Depending on load, speed, and ambient temp you might see up to 215°-217° pulling a steep grade.

Cummins states no more than 3-5 minutes at idle and anything over 10 minutes is considered excessive. Best bet in those mild temps is a short idle for oil pressure to build and then drive her easy until she is at operating temp. How long is your drive? It's possible the thermostat isn't fully closing and not allowing the block to get to operating temp. What year truck? Do you know what temp thermostat is in it?

Drop it off at these guys on one of your Nampa runs. They rebuilt the one in my 05 and it was a cheaper/better fix than parts store stuff. https://www.durobilt.com/

As stated it is not required.. thou many do it and get some decent movement out of them. When I did mine it was all per the install instructions. I then re-torqued them and got movement on all of them and not with a hot engine. This was even with an already compressed HG and 1 bolt at a time. Our local engine builder also always does a retoruqe after a couple drive cycles and gets movement. Even ARP stats that they might be necessary depending on the headgasket used. At higher than stock clamping force it's not uncommon to get uneven clamping at first that is then fixed with a re-torque. So you may not need to, but it also may not hurt. It doesn't take long. At the end of the day if you're not pushing the limits of the HG or studs then it likely won't make a longevity difference, but again it doesn't hurt it either.

I am personally not a fan of them. I do realize some have good results with oil consumption thou, like yourself. Personally I would be more inclined to run a slightly thicker oil vs an oil additive.Modern oils are really good and just don't need additives, that's my 0.02.

Yes, it’s the acids from combustion that effect TBN.

This forum software is the pickiest and most inconsistent software of any of the forums I visit. It can be quite frustrating at times.

Without a UOA you really shouldn't run oil much longer than a year, regardless of miles. As soon as drive the oil starts breaking down and will age out before it wears our or gets contaminated out with low miles, but it will age out. This is especially important with modern oils as CK oils don't have the TBN that CI oils did. TBN isn't depleted as quickly during use with ULSD, but TBN still depletes while sitting. I've seen oils deplete their TBN in 12 months and low miles on UOA, so just passing the info along.

Have you check the grounds? Those components may have a common ground on the fire wall, or it may be a ground at the ECM.