AH64ID

In line with what Michael says, it may effect the cloud point.. But the most important thing is to buy winteriezed fuel. Now where Michael and I live the fuel is winterized early, and never seems to be an issues without anti-gel additive for me. But whenever I go somewhere new I as about the fuel. I carry anti-gel and emergency gel removal additives with me in the winter, just in case.

From the service manual. When the temperature is below 45 ±8 degrees F, the temperature sensor allows current to flow to the heater elementwarming the fuel. When the temperature is above 75 ±8 degrees F, the sensor stops current flow to the heaterelement.I would think if your getting hot fuel in the summer a cooler may not be bad, but you would want to bypass it in the winter. I am wanting to add another heater to my first filter, Fleetguard makes a 300w 1-14 sandwich heater with the same thermostat at the OE heater.

Welcome. 400 miles, WOW.. I did more than that last weekend..My truck is no longer my DD, so if I haven't driven it in 2 weeks I take it to the store or somewhere to get the oil hot, and lube all the seals. I would do the same on your truck. Be sure you are running a fuel additive, fuel starts to break down very quickly and it sounds like you burn less than a tank a year. I also don't think you need the block heater plugged in all the time, not only is it expensive ($1.56/day at .10kWh) if the truck isn't being driven there are no benefits from it. You also need to make sure you change the oil and filters annually, even if you only put 400 miles on. The fuel filter on my truck was 3 years old, and had 10K miles on it when I bought it and it was NASTY! My fuel filter with 30K miles looked brand new compared to that one.

If you look at Dorkweed's setup and you have to change the filters every 3K miles, that's 28 changes, or 28 new QTS of oil. Thats really 2.3 oil changes over the 84K miles, and with adding a qt every 3K miles you keep the TBN up, and help lower the contaminates, which really helps the longevity of the oil. I am not trying to say its not impressive, since its still a lot of miles for cheap dino oil, but its a lot of work too. What's the total cost for that 84K miles? There are at least 40 qts of oil used. Thou its still probably cheaper than my oil/filter changes at 15-20K miles. If I had a frantz I would still want to use synthetic, IMHO even if you get the same contaminate level I still think synthetic's are better for the motor. I have thought about putting a Frantz in after my 2um bypass, but I am not sure how much longer that would make the filters last, and at $8/qt thats not cheap if I have to use 5-6 extra qts per OCI.

It sounds like the headlights are shorting the flashers out. I would look for worn wires in the bundles from the headlight/blinker stalk..

Looking fwd to the results.

Thats my thought as well. But lots of people using them with great results. The change frequency is also insane, especially if you use $$ oil.

Hopefully its a simple sock cleaning and it'll be up and running again.

The Amsoil MTF fluid makes my NV5600 shift super smooth, when its really cold it takes a minute to warm-up for a smooth 2-3, but it was worse on OE fluid.

I have seen several people run them for fuel. Seems to me it would take a hell of a pump.

Yes he does have one. We both run the Jacobs brake. The only reason I noticed my valve getting sticky was with my back-pressure gauge. Without it I would have never known. As soon as I downshift and the rpms drop with the clutch pressed the brake goes fully shut. So it may or may not be happening to others, but it takes a back-pressure gauge to see it happen. 2 cycle in CR's gets mixed results. I figured I would try a light mix for a gallon of the stuff as a test. I saw no benefits, and the decrease in EB performance so I quit using it. Otherwise I have been using Amsoil Diesel Concentrate every tank since I bought the truck 48K miles ago.

I stopped because I think it was gumming up my exhaust brake. The brake wouldn't fully engage at higher rpms anymore, about 1K miles after I stopped using it the brake works normal again... I do still get the very rare stick if I engage it at high rpms, but nothing like while I was using 2 stroke. I think I need to remove and clean it to get the last of the gunk off.

For the time I used 2-stroke every tank I put 4127 miles on the truck with 119 engine hours, for an average speed of 34.68 mph, with a tank high average of 61.7 and a low of 28.8; and was from July thru Sept so temps were not cold. 1432 of those miles were towing, so good EGT's were had as well. And while its not relevant I averaged 15.5 mpg's.

I rarely idle for extended periods, and if I do the rpms are bumped up to 1100 (from 750), and if its cold out the EB is turned on to increase load and engine heat.

The first half sounds normal, with nothing running there should be no fuel pressure. What if you just start the truck without the bump? ---------- Post added at 03:24 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:23 PM ---------- I wonder what the extra flow would do to heat the fuel in the tank thou?

Hopefully that fixes it! I think the powder, soak idea is a great one, especially since your about to put new carpet in.

Thats pretty cool stuff... It would also be good for driveways!I also think the solar shingles are pretty cool.

That looks like it. If its not a/c condensation its probably a bad door/window seal.

It depends on the additive, some add lubricity and clean. But you are correct, nothing will instantly clean, it takes time. And the best way to get carbon off the tips is to get those EGT's at 1200 sustained for some good towing, that will clean them nicely. But carbon shouldn't be on the internals, and that's where, IMHO, a good additive will help. Remember that an additive can only work on places the fuel touches, so it can't have any effect on the external surfaces and gunk, only internals.

I may have missed it, but how are the two pumps wired? I know you said differently, but what is controlling the power?And just to be clear, your getting fuel pressure until you start it, then none?

Yeah, if I am going up a grade at 15-20psi empty I am about +20, and 55 mph cruise I am +6, and city driving anywhere from +10-+20, seems to be a lot more variety than you get. Yesterday pulling Horseshoe Bend Hill, 14K GCW, 55mph (following a 1/2 gasser with a TT), in 5th gear Boost was 20-25, EGT's were 1100ish, Ambient was 92*, IAT's were ~127 at most, coolant got to 211*F. Do your IAT's go up with the exhaust brake on? I don't remember ever looking at it before the cam, but now they go up about 10* with the EB on, and drop as soon as I turn it off. I know the pressure isn't pushing exhaust into the intake as that would go up a LOT more than 10*, but I am guessing its from the lack of airflow and probably happened before the cam.

Most of the popular brands will help. I personally use Amsoil Diesel Concentrate. I have no way to tell if the additive did it, but I had a sticky injector the first summer I owned the truck that hasn't come back in 2 years. ---------- Post added at 02:46 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:46 PM ---------- Stay away from additives that have alcohol in them!

I would completely remove it for a day or two to ensure its the issue, then call Edge to see what they say.

The 3rd gens run a MUCH cooler IAT than the 2nd gens. Under empty cruise I am only 6-10* above ambient temps, if the outside temp is above freezing. I will get to +35* when boosting and towing hard on a hot day, and +50* on a cool day. As the temp drops below freezing the IAT's run warmer than the ambient by a lot more. There must be enough heat in the engine bay? Even doing 80 at -15*F the IAT's won't really drop below 10*, and are normally in the 20-30* range. Of course the truck has to work much harder in the cold dense air. As for the worse mileage with the cooler IAT's, I think that the other effects of the cold air are what make the mileage drop, tires are harder, fluids aren't as warm and viscous, and don't forget the density of the air is MUCH thicker. If IAT's played that much of a change on their own then I would only get 13-16mpg based IAT's of ~60 which for me is 50* weather, and that just doesn't happen. I have noticed the energy required in cold temp is MUCH higher, just watch your boost gauge. Normally at 80 I run 7-10 psi of boost, if its cold outside the boost is higher, in 10* weather the boost will jump to 18-20 psi. I know the 2nd and 3rd gen IAT's are nothing alike so its not a 100% fair comparison.

Welcome! This is a great site!