AH64ID

He is the last person I’d trust on findings. He is marketing his own cover, and reportedly being sued in the process over the videos. Its been a really long time since they have been a reputable company. I ran a MH cover on my 05 and was pleased. With my 18 I’ll be adding the OE “Max Tow” cover at 15K miles. Not that I have anything against the MH, but the Ram/AAM engineers feel their cover is good to a GCWR if 39,100 so I feel confident sticking with that cover.

How do you think Donaldson and OEM’s come up with their ratings? Throw a dart at a board? Or do actual testing? The issue with outflowing a filter isn’t just restriction, it can also be filtration effectiveness. Looking at the Donaldson in question it’s high restriction flow rating comes in at 8”HG.. which in a filter minder is at the barely moved setting, with green going to nearly triple that. Big disparity between the filter ratings and the filter minder. So it’s not surprising that a filter minder doesn’t move. So there are multiple things to consider. Generally speaking air filters are undersized on almost every modified rig out there. It is what it is, but we also have to consider that 99% of the time the flow is lower than the filter rating. That’s why undersized air filters can work for most applications. @dripley I always recommend a good pleated filter in a sealed box. I’ve never been a fan of a BHAF, especially on 2nd gens where the filters are in such a warm spot in the engine bay. Heat shield or not, that corner is hot. We already know the IAT sensor location on a 2nd gen provides a high reading, so the added temp from a BHAF in the OE corner will be masked by the false reading. Just my 0.02.

Travel safe!

Wow!!!! I didn't realize it was that wet up there.

I rarely have my ring on, and never while on the flight line or wrenching at home. I will wear it, but not when there is any work going on. Thought about getting my ring tattoo'd on, and even have the design worked up... just need to decide if I will or not. Getting another tattoo on the 12th so maybe I'll do it then.

For a stock wastegated HX35 that's enough filter at a HR rating of 648 cfm, for anything bigger (or boost up above 30 on a HX35), it's not enough filter. One thing I have found after researching commonly used BHAF's is that they are large on physical size and small of CFM. Most of them just don't have the flow because there isn't much surface area for the media relative to their size. You don't have to have one collapse to outflow it's capabilities.

Haha... zero, but we're not talking about rebuilding engines are we?? As stated, since you know.. words mean things, MY technique. Any more silly questions? You did make a mistake, but you didn't correct it yet. Then again, maybe the edit button isn't present for everyone, just mods/admin...I'm honestly not sure.

I’d shim it out. Bags should be vertical anyways.

We're getting into more and more. I've done smoked ribs since I was 14, not much else until recently. I've done brisket, tri-tip pastrami, lots of whole chickens. I've even made and smoked my own bacon, which reminds me... it's time for another batch.

There was some initial discussion on re-torque vs re-check.. I think that's been cleared up, yet you're still bringing it up... I do prefer to break the torque again, but that's technique. If you're wanting to re-torque you DO have to break torque. I never said you can't install it per the service manual. My very first post on the subject even referred to the service manual... In terms of when to go above stock I would look at the evolution of the task and engines over the years. The 2nd gen didn't have you back off 360° after the initial torque and the boost was in the low 20's. The 3rd gen has you back off the bolt 360° after the first torque, providing a more uniform clamping of the head. The boost on the 3rd gens is in the low 30's. So if the boost is increased to low-mid 30's I would at least use the updated torquing procedure. If the boost is above 40 psi, then I would break the 77 and re-do it. Anything above 45 and I would go to studs. Speak of what's wrong... who is the one who said to tap the head for Cummins head bolts with 12x1.5? They are 12x1.75.

I'm guessing the maps max in the low-mid 20's?

I believe it's for the flux capacitor output to the PTO port on the transmission.

IIRC it falls into the ±110 range.

Not sure why you are surprised It's a perfectly fine procedure for a stock powered truck.

When re-torques are done on HG's they are done one bolt at a time, in the proper order. This doesn't release the force on the HG, just does a re-torque, vs a tq check.

Exactly, and why there is a re-torque involved... not a torque check. Stock rebuilds can go exactly by the book, which has evolved to include a re-torque and then a torque check. More power than stock, or more torque than stock needs a re-torque on top of the torque check.

Two different things, torque check and re-torque. I think that's what has you confused. There are applications for both methods. I like to re-torque HG bolts/studs on installation. It ensures the HG is evenly seated. Some applications are just find with a torque check, like the 2nd go round on installing lug nuts. Torque check is just hitting them with the same torque to make sure they haven't loosen too much, but they can have loosened some... but you would never know with a torque check. Re-torque, is breaking torque and reapplying it. If there is no movement of the torque wrench when it clicks then you are torque checking and not re-torquing. Aluminum wheels are a funny example because they always break in a little and you get movement, so you end up doing a re-torque on a torque check. But on new wheels if they don't move on their own, rare, I will break torque and re-torque... they nearly always go tighter for the same torque.

1482° is not good fuel to air, especially empty and with it starting to backdown.

We were talking about the BD7317 that silverdodge asked about. Spinners are great filters. Just a lot of work to fit them on these smaller trucks, even the small ones built just for the ISB. Fleetguard also makes one.

Not necessarily odd. The tap should be slightly larger than the bolt, if they were the same size a bolt would have a hard time following a tap. It needs to cut just a little deeper than your threads. Odds are the threads just need cleaning. How much force does it take to spin it in the head?

Cummins has the same thing on 3rd gen head bolts. The loosening is important, as it helps set and equal calming force. What none of them mention is ensuring the tq wrench clicks while moving. They don’t mention that because it’s taught to always do that at mechanics training, so it should go without saying. That being said, lots of things should go without saying and they can’t. I’ve always understood them to be 12 x 1.75.

But that’s the thing, you cannot tell they are all equal with that method. The method does work, and has for many years, but that does not mean they are all equal. It’s good enough for most users/uses, and that’s the end point.

One at a time will not effect the HG. Also, a new HG shouldn’t be effected by breaking torque, as demonstrated by the backing off 360° on 3rd gens.... unless the gasket is completely different.

They look good, and should be improved over the 2nd gen design... as long as the push-rods fit them.

You need more air... or less fuel...