AH64ID

Awesome you will really like it! I had a lot of fun putting 1500 miles on my dads '17 last month. Did you look into the air assist suspension? What made you stick with the G56? I love my NV5600 but I'd be getting an Aisin if I bought one today.

If you're going to the dealer may as well have them check it for updates. Maybe there is something for high DEF usage. Maybe it needs some highway miles to fully clean stuff out?

Is that on 13+ or the 07.5-12's? I understand that it's directly related to fuel, so high mpg = low def usage.

My folks have one for their 5er but they have only put about 1500 miles on the rig, and I don't recall the brand. I've looked at a few and never pulled the trigger.

I think the EGR itself is smaller than early 6.7's, so it may not be all that much anyhow. I know it moves enough less EGR that the intakes don't get as nasty with soot. Have you topped it off with a pump yet? I get the impression the middle of the gauge moves very quick.

You won't ever see a regen message unless the DPF gets too full and a regen hasn't been able to occur. IIRC that's around 80% full on the DPF. Passive regen is simply that the driving conditions allow for high enough EGT's to clean the DPF. Active regen is anytime there is additional fuel being injected into the exhaust stroke to increase EGT's, this is the main way the DPF gets cleaned. I've read mixed reviews on pulling the EGR plug on a 13+, how's it working out? What's your DEF usage like? My dad and I did 1500 miles in his '17 and went thru about 1/3 of a tank, and then topped it off at a trucks stop with a DEF pump. 800 miles later he says the gauge still hasn't moved off of full.

Do you know about what the RAW is on a loaded fladbed with the trailer hooked up? The beekeepers that have hives in our pasture only use LD (3500 DRW) trucks for servicing after the hives are delivered. Sometimes I'll see a LD truck towing the loader but I haven't seen them put hives/trailer on a LD truck. All the hives arrive on a MD flatbed truck, like a 6500-7500 series. Just looking at some numbers a light hive is ~50 lbs, so 96 of them is ~4800lbs, plus tongue weight. That's more than a 2nd gen DRW, or 7.3 F-350, is rated to handle. That's also a light hive, they should be much heavier when you take them to extract. You would do better with a 24' deck gooseneck that holds hives/loader. You should be able to get as many hives as a flatbed and loader on one without overloading your truck, and you already own your truck.

I don't see anything in the stock tables that would call for that. The highest rail pressure on a table with engine braking is around 14K, and that's above 3K rpms. Most of the time it looks like you should be between 7-12K while coasting/engine braking. There is one tablet that calls for 11-17K, but that's still not as high as you're seeing. I'm wondering if it's a regen table. That could be a FCA? The 26K is likely the HPRV in the rail opening. But I haven't watched one to know for sure. Maybe post it up on a forum with a few more 4th gens?

I haven't.

The valve train was designed with an exhaust brake in mind. They work well with each other. 60 psi is the holding force in terms of back pressure and not a breaking force. If backpressure were exceed the spring force the valve would be pushed open. The valve could kiss the piston at TDC but it’s not an issue with stock motors and brakes. The PRXB is the only brake to buy, IMHO.

Yes, with the stock cam.

To be fair they all have the same peak retarding horsepower as they all produce a peak of 60 psi back pressure. From 2000+ rpms they are all equal, where the PRXB and BD are better than the Jacobs is from idle-2000 rpms as they build more pressure sooner. I have a Jacobs on mine and it will likely be replaced with a PRXB this winter. I'm pretty sure my Jacobs has a small tear in the diaphragm and it's no longer a supported product from Jacobs. I will actually lose retarding hp above 2000 rpms as I make about 75-80 psi of backpressure with my cam, but I'll gain retarding hp below 2000. It's going to be a trade off. I can hold the higher backpressure since I have 104# valve springs.

The Amsoil for the NV4500 is their MTG 75w-90. https://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/transmission-fluid/manual/manual-transmission-and-transaxle-gear-lube-75w-90/?code=MTGQT-EA 6 qts would be about 2/3 of what you paid for the OEM stuff. Hit me up with a PM if you're interested.

Looks good! Can the '14's add gauges to the left side of the EVIC like the '17's? I put boost/eb hp on my dads truck. Nice little feature.

You have a very busy schedule these days indeeed. You may have heard the saying “pay me now or pay me later”. It’s something we discuss often in aviation maintenance. Pay me later always seems to accrue interest. It may feel like putting something small off isn’t a big deal but it can easily, and rapidly, grow into something bigger. All in all, your doing good things Michael.

Too bad you can’t advance the cranking timing based on ECT to find out, but I think that too little timing is the best explanation.

I don’t think 65K counts as a long time thou.

Greaseable can have the potential to last longer, with frequent greasing around 5K miles at most. Generally speaking they seem My wife's 4Runner is still on the OEM joints at 173K miles and they are TIGHT but I grease them every 5K miles. Most generally get better life out of non-greaseable because they have better seals, since they don't want the grease to get out. This also keeps road grime out.

Just the design of the oil pump and lubrication systems. On a diesel there is much more pressure on the bearings due to the high torque and low rpms, this demands more oil pressure and thicker oil. The pumps go from idle to max output very quickly. 18 at idle to 60 at 2000 is a huge increase for 1250 rpms of change. The oil pump also moves 20 GPM at 3000 rpms.

Did you turn the key to on, or bump it to start and then back on? The 2004 is programmed to run for 20 seconds after a crank-bump, but 0 seconds after a long crank or if it's been running. So just cranking on it won't prime the system. The pump often won't run if you just go to on, it also doesn't run while cranking. So far I am not convinced there is an issue. So try this. Turn the key to "ON", then quickly to Start and back to "ON". You should hear the pump run. Repeat this 3-4 times, and then try to start it. It's doubtful anything failed at the exact time you replaced the filter, thou nothing is impossible.

As those guys said it's probably a fake gauge, but with your 2000 it could be correct. Something like a M9173M fast idle kit would let you know if it's real or fake, as the pressure would change depending on the switch position. Actual pressure will hit 75+ on a cold motor at idle, but warm idle is 18-25 psi. Pressure then comes up very quickly while driving at is 55-60 by 1800 rpms on a warm motor, as you start towing the pressure can drop to 40-50 depending on coolant temp. Diesel pressure varies quite a bit for such a small rpm window. If you do have the flash the gauge is useless, even thou it may read close as Michael pointed out. The reason it's useless is that it won't show you an oil pressure problem until it's too late. You could be at 10 psi at 2500 rpms which is well below the required pressure but the gauge would show proper pressure. It's generally not an issue thou, as the oil pumps in these motors are nearly indestructible.

Exactly, which is a benefit at low loads and why I said just cruising it likely won’t cycle the fan too much more, but on a hot day where the a/c and intercooler are already heating the radiator up you might get some fan operation while empty. But when the motor is working hard the hotter the thermostat the hotter the radiator. The radiator is getting fed coolant at least 20° hotter than it was when the fan clutch engange temp was designed, and that’s going to make it engage more often any way you look at it. A partially open 200° thermostat can make for a hotter radiator than a mostly open 180° one. Aside from fuel mileage it shouldn’t hurt anything having the fan work more, I’m simply pointy out that it will operate more often. Looking at the 1999 FSM the fan will engage when the radiator discharge temp is 160°-179° F. When the radiator is getting fed 180° coolant that will take a while to get to, but at 200° it wont take as long. A 180° thermostat should only be putting 200° coolant into the radiator at very high sustained loads, whereas a 200° thermostat doesn't put coolant any colder than 200° into the radiator. We're talking about year round operation of a 200° thermostat. In the winter it likely won't ever lock on an empty truck without a winter front, but in the summer or with a winter front it might. I've read about guys, on this forum, having there fan come to life in the winter with a winter front on, and that was likely with a cooler thermostat which means a cooler engine bay. With a 200° engine it doesn't take much radiator heat to get the engine bay to hold 160-179°. With my MM3 I can watch all of the underhood temp sensors and even in the winter it doesn't take much to warm up that engine bay. As soon as the radiator cracks I get 20°+ warmer IAT's from the radiant heat of the radiator by the intercooler, and the intercooler is ahead of the radiator in the airflow. That's all without a load on the motor.

Go tucked... your paint, BJ's, and wheel bearings will also thank you.

It's hard to say for certain, but it should have a slight effect. The delay in start of injection may be overcome by the reduced ignition delay from higher pressure and better atomization. My guess is that ignition will be slightly delayed at lower rpms and fuel loads, and the impact will be negligible at higher rpms and fuel loads. I do think that the shorter duration for the same fuel is a good thing thou. With CR's I really like overiszed injectors with less that stock duration as it doesn't require huge timing at rpms and all the fuel can still be injected. I have found lower EGT's for the same total fuel this way, all with less timing.

Looks like a fun project. The first issue I might see is how quickly a 220A alternator will wear out trying to recharge a 2700AH battery bank, even at 70% charge the alternator would be running at 100% for hours and this will wear the brushes out very very fast. Automotive alternators are not rated for continuous 100% load. I would install the alternator as a standalone, but you will have to figure out how to control it as well. The OEM alternator is ECM controlled. You will also need to install a small battery on the 2nd alternator for when you aren't hooked up to the trailer. Running the A/C while driving will draw around 150A of DC power, leaving you with a small 70A charge rate on the house bank all while running the alternator at 100% for hours. Why not run the Onan while driving for A/C power and battery bank charging? There are some 150A plus inverter/chargers that would last longer and still charge the house bank as quick as possible, all without very large cable runs. You could also put several smaller battery chargers on the system for even more amps. You could add 2 100A converters to your existing converter and charge the batteries faster than a 220A alternator would, and with more longevity. The PM4 100A converter needs 13A, so 26A for 2 plus the 14A for the A/C and you still have 20A capacity left for the OEM converter and you're looking at 250+ A of charging and A/C. Additional converters would also allow for rapid recharge on shore-power.